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I have a question and my question is this. That is a #2 pencil I saw no mention of drilling the holes out? Note: This damper is from an EJ22T The one from my EJ25 has larger holes but the are in the rubber cushion only.

"Or does the picture suck so bad that you cant tell either way?" Where's the "smell-a-vision" when we need it??

Thanks for the info. I just posted the question more for some one that may have a tranny for sale that reads this. Seeings how gear oil is what about 90wt and ATF is what maybe 30wt? The cocktail could cause gears to get a bit warm if they are mixed. Some cars do run ATF in their manual trannys but they are designed for it, and a diff may have different loading characteristics.

Please read this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76234

The diff fluid may be real low, it's all in the tranny. Thus the heating. I am going to assume this is a 4wd tranny?

"I can also hear the noise faintly with the car stopped, out of gear, with the clutch released. When I put the clutch in, I can hear the sound 'wind down' and stop." Sounds like a bearing or some preload adj on the tranny main shaft from this statement. Lets hope Jamal reads this.

Sorry to read about the lack of usable 3AT's. Somebody up north maybe (as in way up north = Washington ect.) Shipping would kill ya though. Here's a wild one - the 4EAT I mention was in my XT6. What-A-ride!!

You're most welcome Misled, sorry to be the harbinger of such bad tindings. The ATF "looked" fine in mine also, dip stick -> like yours. Shifted firm (gear oil may be a good hydraulic oil?) Then one day, I left off the gas and BANG!!! I don't think a rebuild is and option, too many boneyard models to choose from. Plus some of the internal parts might be hard to source these daze (sic) I liked my 3AT also untill I tried a 4EAT (in my next car as I retired the 3AT wagon as a result). Not a real option in your case as the wiring for it is complex. Again sorry to tell you this but what happened to me was down right ... well good luck. I hope I'm wrong again.

What size should I be going for? I got 1/4 hose but I guess its too wide? It's a metric size that is smaller than 1/4" I'd get some from a Honda in a boneyard, the late eighties models had miles of it. Better take a good piece to an auro parts house that deals in forgien cars Here's the questions: 1. Can a vacuum leak cause the 3AT to slip, or shift hard, or whistle? From my understanding, the tranny is vacuum controlled, so if there IS a vacuum leak that I can hear pretty well, can it be causing the tranny to trip out? It also makes whistling noise when upshifting... That does sound like a vacuum leak, the govenour is what controls most of the shifting. I don't think this is being caused soley by a vacuum leak (see #5) 2. Why in the heck would only one head's spark plugs be all burnt up? It was the passenger side. This could be caused by a leak also, normaly they go lean sucking air in the intake runner for that side. Have you ever done a compression test. 3. Wasnt there some sort of recall on the early EA82's PCV system? What was it again? Maybe my car didnt get it fixed... Maybe its causing a problem? The recall was for sucking oil in the line coming off of the cam cover. This resulted in oil smoke after a hard turn. 4. Why the misfiring after new plugs? Everything else checks out OK and even when i DO hold the hoses in place so it doesnt have the hissing vacuum leak, it STILL misfires. What gives? I like Cougars sugg but I don't think you could hold them all tightight enough. Seeing how we have not been told the fuel system, maybe the carb is causing this? 5. Can wiping the tranny dipstick with a rag youve wiped the front diff dipstick with, cause the tranny dipstick to REEK of gear oil, after say.... a month? This is not good at all. I hate to break this to you and do not want to be a dire monger. These tranny / diff setups have been known to loose the seal between them allowing the AFT and the gear oil to mix. This is caused by the bearing for the inputshaft into the diff going bad, the resulting movement in turn takes out the seal. I had one that as a result of the above let the diff lock up at 35 MPH, seat belts are wonderful items. The only way the car would move was to keep the tranny loaded i.e. had to keep pressing on the gas even when brakeing or going down hill.

???? Nipper says "When you over heat the VC, the silicon fluid inside it bakes and becomes a glue. i have never seen anyone here say it becomes an open diff when the VC goes bad" Jamal says "No that's not how it works. When the viscous coupling overheats, the fluid loses it's ability to resist shear, meaning no power transfer." Are these guys both saying the same thing or??

thanks for the PM, Scooby

A few items come to mind that I would test 1) Make sure the CTS contacts are clean, (you may be "stuck in closed loop") test it's output at the ECU 2) make sure your 02 sensor is not getting old and lazy "......." 3) make sure you have the TPS for the spider wired so the idle switch is connected properly to the harness "........"

Bratman, I thought what you thought untill I saw this chart. Look at what they call the engine in the Brats on this page. It's wrong for the USDM but... maybe the middle east or or?? Subaru engine application chart I don't know where "RAM Clutches" gets it's info? As I said, maybe it's an overseas varrieant?? Maybe a type-o? Emily knows her stuff, that's why I checked before posting.

okay Rob all is kewl, good luck Skip out,

The for sale section has this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76184

By chance are your heater controls stuck in one position? The solenoids (x2) are located infront of the wiper motor. The diff lock switch controls which solenoid passes vacuum. This vacuum source is provided via the vacuum canister located behind the pass side strut tower. This same canister provides the vacuum to operate the heater controls. Hope this helps. (sorry for the double info post G, you just type faster than I)

all kewl G I read "ok so i was tinkering with my newe boost gauge and the waist gate well i pluged off tghe waist gait comleatly" after deciphering this I just figured he plugged the line to the actuator. Good way to make fragile HG go poof IMHO

Sorry G this is not correct The waste gate actuator has an internal spring that holds it in the closed position. The waste gate duty solenoid is located on the inner fender in front of the pass side strut tower.

Emily I am sorry to disagree with you but you say " EA71 1.8L OHV engine" I believe the EA71 is a 1.6L not 1.8 in 1979

Jamal, Many many thanks for the time and the most excellent explanation. I now see the link Nip provided was just for basic reference. Very well done and I agree with your speculation that Subaru holds some of their cards close to their vest. Also very interesting the 2x4 test. I have a 2.5 RS 5 speed. I may try and dupilcate his findings. Once again thank you.

In the sage words of Sir Edrach. Please proof read and check for spelling errors before posting. Please accept this as gentle criticism not condemnation. As for your problem, check the intake to throttle body plenum. (the plenum is the aluminum part that says "Subaru Turbo" on it) I have had this happen when the clamp is not tight enough. To test if this is your problem, with the engine not running try lifting the plenum. I will not warn you that operating your car with the waste gate disconnected is asking for blown headgaskets or worse, as I am sure you are aware of this.

You're welcome Jim, I had to show everyone what you are up against. With talk of torches and welding and wielding hammers and chisels, my other picts may have led them to believe there was more room than there is.

Thanks Nipper, lets hope they shed some light in the form of ill. of the diff I do not need rhetoric that tells us this and that with no more than obscure concepts that expect us to understand their meaning. I.E. The subaru unit is one combined part that will allow either the front or rear to spin faster to "lock up" the VC. The viscous coupling acts to limit slip. So what you have is a VLSD transferring power front and rear. The driven shaft (what the output/driven gears are connected to) does not directly drive the front differential, as nipper posted. It drives the center differential. The drive pinion shaft, as it's called, which goes to the front ring gear, is inside the driven shaft, and is connected to the front output of the center diff. The rear output goes through a transfer gear and then to the rear wheels. I am sorry, as I used all of these definitions to come up with the ill. Now Jamal says they are not correct ??? Please Jamal, your understanding of this system is far superior than most of us here. We (I) need to see what's in your mind's eye. I beg of you to show what you are talking about. My appreciation will be apparent.

Quote the Skip " the link Nipper provided is not correct" Quote the Jamal "No, the link nipper posted was correct." Quote the Jamal "That is not a Subaru center diff/viscous coupling." Now sayth the Skip once again as it is the link Nipper posted " my ill. has everyone corn-fused" My brain is decidedly lame but I thought (operative word) this is a post/thread on the manual AWD tranny (read - 5 speed - ya know the kind with a clutch pedal? ) not the 4EAT AWD tranny. But hellfire I am gittin' way to old for all this thnkin' stuff!!

"you could also drill a hole in the middle of the dent, drain rinse the ATF out, pull the dent out and then weld it shut. that's what i would do" This method is questionable at best. I can tell you have not done much overhead welding. You said rinse - with what? How long do you let it drain? Days? You will never get all the ATF out so some will settle into the pocket you form pulling it out. This will contaminate the weld and do you know the flash point of ATF?? Wanna bet if it's higher or lower than the temp of molten steel? "much quicker than pulling the pan." As I said questionable at best.