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Otay WOB, the rear drive is engaged by a vacuum motor of sorts. It's a large diaphragm that gets vacuum applied to the side needed. This vacuum control is/was the job of the solenoids. You could easily( ?) rig a set of manual valves from say an aquarium set up to control the diaphragm. Open one/close the other for 4wd, reverse this for FWD. (Real fancy setup would be a dash mounted three way valve.) If you are interested in learning how the solenoid control functions, I have written a procedure for understanding/repairing the system.. As for the steering oddity, sounds like you left something loose. I'd jack her back up and double check all fasteners or we may be hearing about you on the 6:00 news. Hope this helps and here's gidonya mate.

askth the Qman: Have you spoken in a manner that others can understand recently? answerith the grasshopper: It percolates simply as.... his intellect is so far above ours, it's likened to comparing the ant's travels to the distance his starship commences as he pilots it to the Pleiades.

I am also in the midst of this shortblock swap. I was thinking turbo until all the warnings. I now am just using headers (have them thanks Jules) and a custom exhaust. My questions center around which idlers to use. I also want to retain the EJ25 intake, as it appears the intake runners are larger. Any links / info appreciated.

I sit corrected. My 94 GT wagon has only a hole where I must insert a shaft of sorts to release the lever. I assumed it was fitted with a cap but it must have been modified (butchered) by a PO.

Nova, up to 94 they had a small cap in front of the shifter, pry it out to gain access to the release solenoid. A screw driver inserted released the lever. In the last 95 I was in, the console had to be lifted. It is outlined in the owners manual. There was no other way to insert said screw driver and being in "Park" made removing the console a bit of a pain. You could try a good lube job and or putting a hole in the console for Justin. You know Justin? Just in Case

I vote for indoor / outdoor therm0meter

have you checked the driveshaft carrier bearing? Where it bolts to the floor could transmit to the area of the rear wheels.

Is this the hose you are talking about?

Thanks for the link OB99 it was the rear of a 2003 VDC. The old ones were rusted tight, new ones fit snug. I will keep that in mind in the future. We got 65 kmi out of the first set. Factory defects no doubt (j/k).

Zeb reminder of what GD said Fuel Filters The one in the engine compartment is called a fuel separator, it to is a fuel filter, the real filter is under the car by the fuel pump. It is the first line of defense and the one that needs serviced first.

86 Brat a.k.a. Babe

Hi Steve, Yes you can buy the bung, any good parts house that handles exhaust parts will have them. A good MIG welder can weld it back on, but you will not doubt have to remove said cat.

Sorry d I don't have that switch in any of my Roos including but not limited to a 2.5 RS, a VDC, several turbo Legs, multiBrats... Maybe a Euro option? Could you do a picture of said switch?

The HH 's return spring is the only return spring for the clutch cable. I first disconnect the HH cable, I then substitute a small spring to act as the return spring. Then measuring pedal freeplay inside the car I adjust the clutch cable to provide about 1/2 inch freeplay. Replace the HH cable and set it to just provide return for the release fork and test drive. Hope this helps

The sensor is on the left (single hose). The object on the right is the baro pressure diverter valve, as Legacy 777 says, the ECU watches both the baro pressure and the intake. This valve shuttles the pressure reading to the ECU from the ambient barometric pressure to the intake pressure (vacuum). I may be possible to check it with a DMM, the resistance is pretty high on the two I measured, but should not be infinite.

14 hour soak and no crab? I vote heat shields, esp over the "J" pipes off the head, but there are many others. I had to put a half dozen spot welds on my head pipe heat shields last time I had it off. Maybe get an assistant to slowly rev the engine while you listen under the car. These can also be tightened with worm style hose clamps. Hope this helps.

just replaced a set of pads yesterday what I found was the pads themselves were rusted into place in the caliper bracket. The "ears" of the pads fit into SS spring clips which position the pads in the caliper bracket. Rust had formed behind the clips and had the pads held fast. Calipers were fine, pads were not. Since it got as hot as you say... bets on a warped rotor -> pulsating pedal after the repair will be the clue. Hope this helps and remember to put a very light coating of anti sieze on the ears, SS clips and place where you find rust on the bracket. DO NOT get it on the rotor or pad suface.

We in the area of this planet dubbed the northern hemisphere where in northern vs some other context southern meaning not a lot in reference to Greek mythology may have a link to the standing God protecting the straights of Gibraltar whom the Phoenicians worshiping the combination of the light reflecting ambiance of green and azure created a semblance coherent that would ultimately yield a pressure here to now known as Coriolis. Egos in adjunct to the vector forces imposed by the laminar flow over an object moving through a fluid which will result in such a happening. I personally have witnessed this phenomena on many instances while piloting my steadfast 87 Gl/starship. The solution has been here to with compared with equal results. Hope this helps.

How old is the timing belt? could it have a few teeth missing allowing it to jump back and forth between in time and out of time? Might want to pull an outside outer cam cover off and have a look.

Here is one you can help with. (Like Keltik says) Mule kick it. After loosening the lug nutz. Have DH place buttox (sic sp) near fender. You embrace him - gotta luv this part eh?. (you are steadying him) Have him rear up and mule kick one side wall Go to opposite side of tire and again. Give him a nice peck on the cheek when he's through. Good luck, I use the loose & drive around method when this method fails.

The subject of coolant system burping and hot spots is a concern with our EJ series engines. I am in the process of replacing my 97 OB's engine with a hybrid EJ25 shortblock and EJ22 heads. To help avoid any issues with trapped air in the coolant system, I am incorporating this addition. I will add a Tee in the line from the coolant passage to the intake. This tee will have a leg that extends above the intake and terminate in a removable cap. Opening the cap will provide an air escape route, and should allow coolant to properly fill the passages. I also plan on keeping the front end raised but would like feedback on this mod. Even better would be to run this line to a swirl pot (pressure chamber above the engine). Ala Jaguar and newer turbo Subes. If anyone has a swirl pot for sale please contact me. I entertain all comments on such modification. Thanks to dennis111 and his excellent photo-documentary for this picture.

Calos Sainz (how bout the old fox) was leading driving a VW. Robby (too Fast) Gordon rolled his hummer look alike first day out. Those folks are intense, gotta luv Jutta. BTW I watch a day late as I put it in the can (DVR) so I can skip the hoop-la and coms.

Okay guys formal apology to some of you. Guess I have been spending to much time in the wrong forum. Thanks for the support Calebz I do have to say... Some of these KIDS need to learn to use their back button if something bothers them. Maybe then they would learn, postings of their sorts just brings it back to the top. Again sorry for the re-post.

on VS ??