1 Lucky Texan

maybe get some tie down straps, the ones that ratchet, and try to pull the engine into position. Just be careful what you tie them to.

I know I keep suggesting this, but I can never recall the details but, a 96 may be old enough to have the aluminum wear 'area' in the clutch-pack system that was redesigned with a steel sleeve in later years. OK, pre-98s. There's a teflon seal that leaks past a worn almunum case area that was changed to steel in 98-99 or so. could be part of the problem, dunno, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6243-fwd-fusevibration/?hl=%2B4eat+%2Baluminum+%2Bwear&do=findComment&comment=52371 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6432-starting-to-hate-this-cartranny-help/?do=findComment&comment=53865 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/53178-torque-bind-problem-fixed/?hl=%2B4eat+%2Baluminum+%2Bwear&do=findComment&comment=428900 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/62044-best-years-for-ej22-legacy-wagons/?do=findComment&comment=557409

but could an engine be 'inspected' for bad rod bearing with just the pan off? I think, similar to ivan's idea, an oil analysis could diagnose a bad bearing too.

maybe a vacuum gauge would tell you if there's a massive vacuum leak or ? dunno how it would keep running though....

KYB are the go-to for shocks/struts. got mine (03 H6 OBW) from rockauto.com

3 lbs. ?

make sure all the tires are the same model and wear-level. Make sure there's no fuse in the FWD position in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side. Then, take it for some tight circles on dry pavement to check for torque bind. should be able to idle through tight circles and figure 8s without bucking or banging.

look for a spot inside the TB cover that is 'rubbed' from the loose belt.

Used to get TripTiks and used their services a few times decades ago, but, they were not able to help my family once in northern new mexico when we were having illness and car trouble, plus, we had 'issues' with a AAA rated motel in Colorado once. Anecdotal i know but, with the advent of mapquest - then navigation and other personal electronics, plus getting towing added to your insurance, just not sure AAA is worth it. Many of the services they used to offer, are easily duplicated with tripadvisor, google, yelp, and other free services on the intertubes. ymmv

pretty sure this is gonna end up being a VW problem. just sayin'

most insurance policies have a towing option. If that's the main issue, and you aren't interested in other AAA services, you could just get towing. i always research dealership locations along my route in case I need help. I actually prepare and keep in the car a coupla pocket folders, one with 'emergency' info - hospitals, dealerships, contact numbers etc. , and one with attractions, restaurants, maps, etc. I often use tripadvisor or yelp w'ever to find places to eat, things to do, places to stay. Don't always use everything I've researched (only had to use a medical clinic once) but, you can only take so much Cracker Barrel.

after it does start, is there a momentary condition that seems like it was OVER fueled/flooded? You might try starting with the accelerator floored (clear flood procedure) Is the fuel pump able to supply good volume? after it starts, will it rev and run well across all rpms? I dunno where the cps is on my H6 but, some folks have found metal particles built up on the cps in H4s, clean them and the car runs better.

If you were running R compound or ultra/max perf. tires, a brake upgrade might be noticeable. But with 'normal' road tires, just go with something like Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic. long-lasting, inexpensive, less dust than StopTech with almost the same bite performance (probably not at high-temps in racing though. StopTechs have higher MOT than hawk - but they duuuuust!) consider a rear anti-sway bar. Rides good going straight on smooth roads, but turns in flatter/quicker. How old are the struts? some new KYBs might make the car feel a lot more planted/less floaty. Intake will get you more 'sport sound'. you might look over at boxer4racing for some ideas.

hi GD, missing your posts

did it have 3 wires? that sensor does both jobs, ECU and gauge info. at opposedforces it seems 22630AA161 is the part, that is the 3-wire unit. maybe someone with more experience can confirm.

those symptoms seem like typical a/c fan failure. But i think the H6 also has some kind of 'speed' sensor failure and I'm not sure what the symptoms are or even which years had that.

even a bad ground might have different behavior with temp/moisture. Start refreshing every ground connection you can find and confirm the battery cables are not corroded inside the insulation.

weird, even a stuck thermostat would be unlikely to cause heating like that. Almost seems like combustion gasses are gathering around the sensor or some weird voltage problem. Maybe put the old sensor back in to confirm there's really a difference in the way they behave - maybe you got a new one that is the wrong part or is bad? 2002 is old enough to have bad wires or coil. They sometimes cause some of your symptoms and especially in damp or 'cold/dew-y' conditions. You can spray the wires/coil with a mister bottle when it's idling to see if idle get worse. (if done at night, you can sometimes see and hear arcing)

why not build one with normal soob layout? Engine in front? shorten the driveshaft, put fuel cell and move battery in the back. I dunno

even if you match his engine power:weight ratio, you have more driveline losses to consider.

Hondas are LIGHT, you may need to shed some weight. You don't NEED that rear and passenger seat do you? hah! and try to get him on a twisty track. He'll plow the corners if you're lucky.

IB"Waittilitrains"

Well, keep in mind we are throwing out 'educated guesses'. The 'mechanical housing' of the sensor likely has 3 wires because its electrical 'guts' contains 2 thermocouples or similar type devices. So, it could still be bad I'd guess. Someone else here may know how to use an ohm or voltmeter to test it. I think I can safely recommend a shop that may be only 40 miles or so away; http://retroroo.com/why-retroroo-subaru-service-repair-denver-colorado/ if you end up needing a pro

you could run portal boxes to reverse direction, but $$$$$$$$$$$$

I think the Aussies build plenty of soob powered rear-engine sandrails, dunno how cheaply it could be done but, I'd think spending a little to keep as much soob stuff that bolts up easily would be better than getting crazy with a lot of mismatched stuff.