1 Lucky Texan

I'm sure you've used penetrating oil? you could try a 'little' heat, w'ever you felt would be OK for the bearing. hubs get a little hot anyway right? I've heard of people backing the cheater bar against the ground and DRIVING the car to turn a stuck nut. Of course you have to put the wheel back on so, lugs have to be good.

I tested the stant xacstat I plan to install today, I just watched it open, then close while monitoring the water temp. didn't look like it was sticking so, I dunno how much more testing I could do. It would really be frustrating to install a dealer-supplied t'stsat that was bad.

um, are you checking the fluid level with the engine idling? also, a car stored like that might benefit from 3 or 4 drain/fill cycles of transmission fluid, with a day or 2 of driving between each, if possible

THis morning, I spent about 3.5 - 4 hours and swapped in the 'correct' plugs. NGK Part # 6619 LFR6AIX11 car started. no test drive yet as it's still on jacks - changing oil, coolant and t'stat tomorrow. I'm considering a 60-40 water/coolant mix. Just don't know if i really want to hassle with doing it. Probably put in the soob 'conditioner' too. how usually drains out of an H6?

suppose I said this were a noise, the 'chk' sound, and a surge? I've had this thought for a while, that the 'buck' I feel might be a momentary forward surge and not a backwards 'power loss'. Is that even possible? It's hard to tell. what are the symptoms of BPV/BOV or waste gate problems?

don't over torque the sensor plus, on some/most blcoks, there is a lump such that, pointing the cable's pigtail in a different direction can make the new sensor crack. try a search for knock sensor installation.

make sure to check the transmission fluid while idling. Most autos are made that way.

well, it was a longshot anyway. so, out of ideas for now

if the TB slipped several teeth, a strip of paper held at the tailpipe will likely try to 'suck in' while cranking. also, do you smell fuel out the tailpipe? If not, the ecu definitely is not happy with something or you have no fuel pressure. CEL on? what's the code?

^^^excellent suggestion

at least you have a code pointing to a cyl. I'm fighting random misfire/bucking with no codes. swap the injector at cyl 2 with cyl 4 and see if the symptom follows as suggested. No money involved, just wrenching time.

OK, I'm about 1/2-2/3 finished with this IC Y pipe swap. I had noticed some grime on the foam insulation wrapper in the area where it attached to the turbo outlet. I ran my hands around and looked all over - couldn't find any other spot so, I figure the dealership cracked it back when the installed the new PCV valve and did the thottlebody cleaning ('induction' service). I decided to pull the foam wrapper off after i got the Mishimoto pipe on, just to see what the hole/crack looks like - and of course, the stock pipe looks OK. That means, the oil/grime WAS deposited by something nearby. So, either it was leftover from before the dealership did the PCV valve/induction service, or there is a problem with the new-ish pcv valve? Another reason I'm suspicious, last time as well as this time, I poured what seems to be water out of the crossover piping attached to the IC. maybe, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon. It was clear and smells more of oil than coolant. Dunno if it's normal to have some condensation in there or not. Seems like, eventually, that's gonna go into the intake right? I guess, before I reassemble everything, I'd like to see a line drawing or good pics of where the , I guess, breather hose? goes vs the hose from the PCV valve (I guess that's the one with the electrical connection?) Also, off the car and disconnected from the connector, should the PCV valve be open in both directions? there are 2 hardlines in front of the turbo outlet down low. Which of the hoses - PCV vs breather, goes on the rear hardline, which to the front hardline?

this sounds familiar. hmmmm........

no one seems to know for certain. There's plenty of other gasoline/ 'rubber' interfaces. maybe the o-rings were sourced wrong at w'ever company made the pump assemblies?

it was very swollen. I was surprised. I may take the cap in to work to look under a scope but, it looked good.

If they did the propane test I've read about, that should be conclusive. But, as said, many people have been sold cats, when they just had exhaust leaks or bad sensors or other less expensive problems.

Maybe Ivan will chime in, or PM him. At one time he was very concerned with engine weight, trying to lighten an engine in a hovercraft.

ugh - dbl post

I do regular maintenance on the cars in April and Oct. so, one thing I did to day, was combine changing the fuel filter on the wife's 03 H6 OBW with installing a new , large-type cap and replacing the o-ring on the fuel pump. here is another link to the youtube video with the best instructions; 2000 Subaru Outback Fuel Pump Assy - YouTube a coupla notes on the above video; I used a vacuum cleaner to police the area I was working to limit debris possibly getting in the tank. Lower the windows/open the doors to reduce breathing fumes. Be prepared for about 2-4 oz. of gasoline to come out of a coupla those hoses. If possible, thread a rag or 3-4 layers of paper towels under the hoses/cable before removing the hoses. I used some twine to bundle the hoses and cable then threaded the twine up thru the driver's headrest post and pulled them up so they would be out of the way. Sorta replaced the use of the video author's wife's hands. Made it a one-man operation. His fuel pump gasket came off with the pump. I didn't notice this before and had a more difficult time getting the pump out thru the gasket. So, make sure to free the gasket if it is stuck and carefully bring it out with the pump. Go slowly and carefully as it may be possible to break or bend something if you just 'horse' it outta there. My original cap appears in great shape, the tabs do not appear to be cracked or bent. The o-ring was quite swollen however. I replaced the o-ring (lubed with a little oil) with the metric 928 Viton unit sent to me (thanx Dave L) and installed the new cap. I was careful not to rotate it too far as I think the 'bump/dimple' on the large tab is meant to stop the cap at the correct point. Forcing it farther would cause the bump to ride on top of the plastic lug and put outward force on the large tab. so, still not sure if all these units are quite the 'ticking time bombs' I originally thought. The o-ring was definitely swollen so......

I do regular maintenance on the cars in April and Oct. so, one thing I did to day, was combine changing the fuel filter on the wife's 03 H6 OBW with installing a new , large-type cap and replacing the o-ring on the fuel pump. here is another link to the youtube video with the best instructions; 2000 Subaru Outback Fuel Pump Assy - YouTube a coupla notes on the above video; I used a vacuum cleaner to police the area I was working to limit debris possibly getting in the tank. Lower the windows/open the doors to reduce breathing fumes. Be prepared for about 2-4 oz. of gasoline to come out of a coupla those hoses. If possible, thread a rag or 3-4 layers of paper towels under the hoses/cable before removing the hoses. I used some twine to bundle the hoses and cable then threaded the twine up thru the driver's headrest post and pulled them up so they would be out of the way. Sorta replaced the use of the video author's wife's hands. Made it a one-man operation. His fuel pump gasket came off with the pump. I didn't notice this before and had a more difficult time getting the pump out thru the gasket. So, make sure to free the gasket if it is stuck and carefully bring it out with the pump. Go slowly and carefully as it may be possible to break or bend something if you just 'horse' it outta there. My original cap appears in great shape, the tabs do not appear to be cracked or bent. The o-ring was quite swollen however. I replaced the o-ring (lubed with a little oil) with the metric 928 Viton unit sent to me (thanx Dave L) and installed the new cap. I was careful not to rotate it too far as I think the 'bump/dimple' on the large tab is meant to stop the cap at the correct point. Forcing it farther would cause the bump to ride on top of the plastic lug and put outward force on the large tab. so, still not sure if all these units are quite the 'ticking time bombs' I originally thought. The o-ring was definitely swollen so......

could be as simple as they forgot to tighten a clamp.

well, maybe someone else will have more info but, I did find this; http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s11/type_13/electronic/audio_parts_antenna/

22" must have been popular, no matching left side for my car from the same warehouse.

cool!