1 Lucky Texan

possible bad hose or cracked plastic in evap recovery system I guess.

lol! I only looked back a few posts but - well it COULD help someone else right? huh? maybe? (just trying to rationalize it....hah!)

If you recently purchased fuel, likely the gas cap needs a few more 'clicks' to be secure. Then, it will take several drive cycles to clear the code, or Autozone/friendly mechanic could clear it, or disconnecting the neg. battery cable for an hour would do it. what model/year/mileage/condition etc. do you drive?

Has anyone driven behind you to see if the brake lights are on? maybe something under the dash is mal-adjusted and the pedal does not return or you are 'riding' the brakes. Are there any kind of tests for residual pressure or proportioning valves or master cylinder weirdnesses? I dunno

Yeah, 2 screws only holding the backing plate on - not uber secure but OK I guess. Then 4 screws holding the license plate to the backing. I suppose someone could also devise some curved or U shaped brackets that would come from behind the bumper and support a plate. But the dealership had already attached a frame to the front. If I do move the plate someday I will get (possibly make) a trim piece to 'fill' and use the holes. like here; http://www.autospeedperformance.com/Subaru/bumpertrim.htm I hate that my state requires this, I HEARD that folks usually just get warnings to put 'em on if running a clean front bumper but I guess I just don't want the risk. I suppose I might try it until I get busted, but not without a trim piece to cover the holes.

Just a weird idea. check at www.boxer4racing.com Teague was putting Konis in junkyard struts and doing an exchange. I dunno if it's too expensive for you or maybe not doable for the Legacy. Probably overkill. There was a website somewhere (scoobymods or ravensblade/northursalia )that had pics and tutorial on putting the Konis in your self. fyi Carl

Are there any codes stored in the ECU? Spending $75 to have a mechanic take a look might be a better investment. The MAF I think is expensive. (I think the 99s are under a recall? not sure about '97) certainly a cat conv. would be expensive too. the o2 and the engine (not coolant) temp sensors would be fairly cheap DIY repairs. btw - I THINK ravensblade got shut down by SOA. Try www.northursalia.com for the same info.

3 of my guesses all help the ECU control air/fuel ratios. Coupled with the age of the car, I feel they are possibilties. Could be something as simple as a bad ground connection I suppose. O2 sensors (I recently learned) can get 'lazy' and not cycle quickly or may not work well at temp or warm up well/whatever. I dunno

my 4 guesses; front O2 sensor MAF engine temp sensor clogged cat. hows that for pinning it down!

^^^^^^^^^ seconded plus, make sure parking light switch on top of the steering column isn't on.

I can never rememeber year models for stuff like this, but I DO remember a reacll for MAF sensors acting like this. Maybe it was '99 . Might be worth a look.

does it have a radiator cap or hose or ??? adaptor?

Well, unfortunately, Subaru intends for you to just use 2 srews at the top directly into the bumper! (at least if its like my outback). Autozone does carry a black plastic 'plate' with plenty of adjustment slots so you could raise it up a little to a different part of the air flow and THEN attach the plate. I did a similar thing on my wrx - You MAY be able to get an idea from the few pics I have; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=105

There was recall for some soobs on ABS. I don't recall the YMs involved. The sensors do get corroded plus, sometimes some metallic road debris gets between the sensor and the tone ring/whatever. Check for recalls

I did find this; http://tinyurl.com/cgzcp But likely would need a lot of pumping if used in the coolant system - plus an adapter. (maybe a cheap rad cap, drill out the center o;flow return dealie, and use the o'flow hose?)

OK - we need a link to one of these devices. Are they expensive? does it collapse the hoses?

Well, I think I read of someone doing the tow hook trick so it isn't original with me. Dunno if it was a soob or honda or mitsubishi. So, I won't tell if you won't! I figure I'll get a plastic mounting plate, attach that to an aluminum plate/bracket ben---uh---'formed' to the correct angle,etc. Choose an assymetric point to attach the bolt such that gravity well help keep the device tight. attach that to the the all thread (possibly a long bolt) adjust everything such that 4-5-6 turns will snug up to a nut with a 'jam' nut behind it so its level. not easy to explain but you guys get the basic idea. I suppose it could still block a little air or a fog light or look odd - but its an option. I have also read of some folks that found a Mitsubishi plate mount that attacheg to the bumper in an offset position but I am reluctant to add additional holes to my car if I can avoid it.(though it was a nice looking piece of formed plastic that mounted flush) fyi

D@mn that IS nasty looking - and the axle don't look good neither! lol! Glad you were able to help her out. I assume that's a front axle or the FWD fuse might still move the car. Nice rescue!

You could also use one of those bulbs that 'beeps'. It won't help YOU see but pedestrians/other cars might at least notice you more.

JL may have inadvertently drained and/or refilled the wrong fluid. Also, if a rear axle or CV joint is busted - using the FWD fuse might work. I guess this is too late - hope she's OK.

I've been contemplating (dreaming is more accurate - hah!) about building a license plate holder that I could spin in and out of the tow hook hole. So at a meet or something I could increase the 'bling' of the front end. I may be going to a track day soon too. I might take it off now I think of it. Any body know where I could get some metric 'all thread' and 3-4 nuts that fit in the towhook hole? What is that diameter and pitch? If I do this I'll try to take some pictures.

Lot's of water emitted now - but the tradeoff might be OK if it significantly reduced some other harmful component. I have doubts about the overall wisdom if the creation of the hydrogen involves electricity from fossil fuels. If from nuclear maybe.

slotted rotors too! - nice.

I recall reading how some of those ABS/wheel speed sensors can go bad from corrosion. Or some magnetic/metallic trash can get on them. maybe that is what's causing both problems? Why wouldn't a bad wheel sensor throw a code? I dunno

Here's a weird idea. Leave the AWD engaged(don't put the fuse in). What if, as an experiment, you took off the rear drive axles? It would leave the rear diff in place but I'd guess there could be NO torque binding. I dunno. doesn't sound practical seeing it written down! hah!