1 Lucky Texan

certain bulbs are dual filament and if one 'droops' or breaks and then touches the other filament, you can get some weird lighting issues. I dunno.

Does anyone else drive this car? have u looked at the sidewall and rim closely for 'rash'? maybe someone tagged a curb hard. I dunno

Thepower drops off steeply a few hundred rpm before the rev limit - so actually a lot of cars might have better -what?- 0-60 or 1/4mile whatever times shifting just before the redline anyway. If you were autocrossing and a section could ber run a little easier if you weren't forced to upshift then immediately downshift and decided to stay in the lower gear and bounce off the limiter - well, you're autox ing and if the shop finds out you're racing they may balk at covering warranty work - I dunno. I doubt doing it occasionally is a HUGE issue - at the same time, I doubt doing it regularly is beneficial for 'racing' or necessary for performance.

I think you're right, but there are other differences besides the power. Of course, that may be good enough for the 1/8 or 1/4 mile track (I'm SURE the OP isn't interested in street racing!) if that's his goal. Plus, might wanna go ahead and follow the down pipe with 3" exhaust all the way out the back. Under 3" likely too restrictive for 300+ HP. At least from what I've read. Additional issues might be CEL 'fixes', but those can done.

Some folks maintain you can, but likely it would end up costing more than the difference up front. The STI has a different center diff, different brakes, different suspension parts, 6 speed tranny, IC spray, is noisier, lighter (IIRC), underbody aero stuff as well as the roof deflector and 'whale tail'. check; http://www.cars101.com . Of course, it's the kind of thing you can do - literally and figuratively - in 'stages'. Many companies (Cobb is a good example) put together tuner/mod 'kits' they often refer to as stage 1, stage 2,etc. Eventually getting into ECU reflashing/piggyback electronics and larger turbos, IC water spray, etc. I think some folks on thise forum have experience with that (I do not) but a LOT of that info is readily found at www.nasioc.com . I'd recommend reading the FAQs in various forums there before asking potentially 'noob' type questions - it will minimize (not eliminate) smart-alec replies. I love my '06 WRX wagon. I think I made a good choice for a daily driver. Even though its more money up front, the STI is the likely the closest thing to a store-bought race car until you begin to spend $55-$60K.

Good question. maybe it's one of those things that could remain 'english' for a long time - like 1/4-20 tripod sockets for cameras. I dunno

It clearly is not meant to be an acronym - it is an initialism. both are forms of abreviation. By definition, acronyms are pronounceable and often words (not always) which already have a meaning. NASA is an acronym NAACP is an initialism http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Carl

thanx for following up with us!

My wife and I have one. The only complaint I have is with the hard downshift the auto-tranny does at high speeds. maybe not affecting all cars - I dunno. The engine is more than strong enough for 2 people and a bunch of gear or 4 people and groceries,etc. , and enters/cruises the crazy D/FW freeways just fine. I think the climate control works fine too. Coupla plastic pieces refuse to stay on the hinges for the rear seat - I just leave them off.

I've heard that, on rare occasions, someone drains or puts the wrong fluid in a soob. Is it possible you had some service done before this began happening? I dunno

be careful - dewalt is some dangerous stuff; http://www.abrasha.com/misc/dewalt_tool_safety.htm ;^)

sometimes there are 'group buys' over at nasioc.com and ocasionally it include the katzkins (sp?) or get some leathers soob seats outta a wreck or maybe you coul;d find someone who wants to trade out their leather for cloth? (many folks in the west don't like leather, but want sunroofs(don't most sunroof equipped soobs come with leather?) and might be willing to trade seats +$$ - try the marketplace here or over at nasioc) fyi

If you're cautious, and have someone else triple check all the prep (like disabling the ignition!) I say go for the starter bump. It's not like you didn't try the more correct way first. And folks evidently have done the starter trick with no problems. It is just physics after all - and should be OK with the proper care. Don't skimp on safety!

If it were installed incorrectly at assembly - I could certainly understand it failing this soon. It may be something simple though I can't think what at the moment. Please let us know what you discover OK? thanx

Yeah, I would think a 'pallet' would be the minimum you'd want to order. maybe some kinda 'cost plus' deal with a set cap and refundable deposit? I dunno. how much is a new tranny right here in the States? How much is the STI's 6 speed?

THough I suspect there could be less interest than here, have you presented this on the nasioc forum? Might pick up a coupla more interested parties there. fyi

Unless something abnormal happened at the car wash it seems unlikely not to be a coincidence. I suppose it's POSSIBLE you picked up a screw or bolt or something in a rear tire - or ran over the 'bump-stop' in such a way to tear a rear boot. Maybe a fender liner was loose anyway, and if the wash had an undercarriage spray, it could knock the liner or other plastic piece loose that is vibrating now. I dunno. Probably only a close inspection back there on a lift will find the problem. make sure they inspect the wheel bearings and emergency brake too while they're under there.

I think scalloped wear is most commonly associated with out-of-balance wheels and/or weak strut issues. I'd try to confirm the wheel hasn't thrown a weight and is true and balanced. The car is old enough it seems to possibly have a bad strut as well, so see if that corner seems 'bouncy' or has other problems.

for all the specs plus the history of previous versions - dig around at http://www.cars101.com enjoy your ride!

I thought the CAS was a code that REALLY meant there is a disagreement between the crank and cam sensors. maybe the crank angle sensor or wiring is intermittent? I dunno

thanx for getting back to us. Sorry it was so expensive. i wonder if the low/leaking tire issue was at fault? anyway thanx

Tell him you'll outright buy a set now and if he will hold onto the rest for -say - 4 months, you'll sell 2 sets for him and keep the third as payment! On nasioc - folks are in a panic for wheels (I suspect though they want toput snow tires on them) right now. I dunno

Was any other service performed while it was in the shop? I dunno much about injector replacement - but if it required disconnecting/draining any coolant system parts - could be the dealer did not 'properly'(it is tricky with soobs) refill the system. It would be nice to know what the CEL code(s) were - but this could easily be unrelated issues. Unfortunately, the most recent coolant problem could also be a bad headgasket.

I shoulda' been more clear - this is in my '06 WRX wagon. Brand new. Seems unlikely to need a coolant flush. maybe the dealership can tell me what it is?

You'll probably find out with an inspection of the brakes and calipers. How many miles on this set of pads? (front and rear) Sometimes the 'signal squealer' is intermittent just as the pads wear down to minimum. I once had a horrible squeal on my old Datsun 2000 convertible - turned out to be a pebble stuck between the backing plate and the rotor.