1 Lucky Texan

I wouldn't rule out a wheel bearing in addition to your thoughts.

In the north I think you guys need CCA - but in the south we need something called 'reserve capacity'. I saw a map once and it indicated where I live had an average car batt. life of 2-3 years. My personal experience tracks that fairly closely. So maybe I could just throw in a $40 batery every coupla years and maybe never worry about being stranded. Or get a $75 batt. with a 3 year full replacement, maybe 'win' the bet or maybe not - either way it's the 'sword of damacles' waiting to get ya'!

batteries have such short lives here in N.Central texas I have 'almost' convinced myself to just schedule a new, cheap battery every 2 years instead of waiting to be stranded. The 3 year full replacement battery from Autozone is what I have used a coupla times, and actually got a free replacement one! But it is expensive and you still are waiting for failure or other 'issues'. cars need lighter/better batteries or fuel cells or 'something'. where's the technology?

JUST replaced the stock B'stone RE92 215/45R17 tires and 17x7 e55(IIRC) alloys with Kumho EASX 225/45R17 on SSR 17x7.5 e50 alloys. Using the freight scale here at work it appears I also reduced the weight at each corner by approx. 3.5 lbs. I think the Kumhos are a little bigger diameter though - since the aspect ration is the same. Still, not bad - plus the white spokes look good on my white car! No other changes made yet, no apparent rubbing issues this morning in normal drive to work. Slightly more noticeable road noise. Not bad and perhaps will settle down after a few miles. wonder how much my stock wheels and tires are worth? fyi

I think that is 'disappointing' oil usage but maybe not indicative of any particular failure. I'm sure you car would have the PCV valve system and it may very well need servicing. You might consider a heavier weight oil - at least through the summer months and see if that helps. Examining all 4 spark plugs may be a good idea, in case one cylinder is exhibiting a problem. A better test might be compression/leak down but I would start with the PCV and maybe heavier (higher viscosity) oil.

I always wanted to end a post with the word mayonnaise.

Yeah, maybe I jumped to conclusions. I just figired the same general system would be operated either by the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) based on various inputs or by hand. I suppose it may vary by model too. I dunno, I guess I'm outta my league here! lol!

Seems like it MUST be the TCU to me. Otherwise, how could it be shifted manually if that just tells the TCU to activate the 1-2 solenoid? I dunno, but I'd try the TCU or a flush first.

Your's is , IIRC, the second complaint I've read about this. Perhaps speaking to the dealer would be a good idea. I THINK your car is equipped with the 'dope slap' headrests that move forward on impact to help reduce 'whiplash'. maybe there is a common failure or mis adjustment/installation somewhere, the factory or predelivery or something. Does it appear they could just be insatlled backwards or something. I dunno

This seems quite possible. The fact that the car ran OK for a little while after the ECU reset probably means a sensor id bad, and the ECU is trying to alter it's map with bad input. If it isn't the O2 sensor, it's still quite likely another one.

Pretty sure they have some kinda repair goop at the auto parts stores for that, though I think it's more designed to repair nicks/opens in the traces themselves, it is what I would try first. maybe somebody else will know more.

Probably any way to get the majority of the fluid out is OK. Search for low silicate AF. Subaru and many foreign cars call for it - something about waterpumps/aluminum rads. (also available at the dealership I'm sure) I doubt much over a 60-40 mix will buy you anything, there's sometimes a chart on the back of the bottle. Also! search this site for refilling procedure. Not sure on your engine specifically, but many soobs need a little xtra help getting the air out of the coolant system - otherwise you can get localized boiling/warped heads/blown gaskets,etc.

sounds about right - there's a 'chip' (RFD tag?) in the plastic on the key. The car needs to re-learn any new keys unless there is some way to disable that system in which case a purely mechanical key should work. I think the system can learn up to 4 keys total. Check your manual and/or dig around at www.cars101.com

Well, they may cover normal fluid use or something as a goodwill issue - but that is often due to a brake job (probably just front pads) being required. Dobtful that is a warranty issue. Most any real problem they should cover if it's very close to or under 36K. I'd prepare myself fo a phone call saying the front pads are worn and need replacing. I know you said they were good - I dunno, maybe it IS a leak that doesn't show on the gravel.

Maybe a parts counter guy could tell you if they have the same part number. Also, those things occasionally show up on ebay. good luck

You were probably more persistent than I wouldv'e been! Way to stick with it, and thanx for getting back to us.

Can you sacrifice any weight? seats, run without a spare/tools, etc.? some say every 8 to 11 lbs removed is one hp - I dunno. Again, lighter wheels - I dunno how much your stockers weigh, but likely you could find some Rotas or , if you have the funds, some SSRs that will give you better looks, better ride/handling AND better 'butt dyno' power. Running 5w-30 (and/or synthetic) might give you another mpg or so, if you don't use it already. check the legacy and NA forums at http://www.nasioc.com

Sam's Club had a folding one at some time in the past. dunno how 'good' it ever was.

So, either there is a diesel Subaru, they just used the first handy vehicle for a beauty shot of their product regardless of it being gas powered, or they also have a product that warns to use 'normal' petrol and used the wrong photo. maybe the device can be switched to announce diesel only OR announce 'gas' (petrol) only? I dunno

The inside of the fuel door looks kinda like a Nissan. probably just a cap from a Subie on a different vehicle. I dunno

maybe some kinda weird whistle through the heat shields but only after they expand???? I got nothing

OKaaaay.... What are your plans for the car? race dedicated? drag.track or rally? Daily driver? surface streets, highway, mix? how much can you spend? spread out or dumped all at once? Do you have another car to drive? are you doing the work yourself, do you have access to tools and a helper, etc.

bump for input due to safety

I like the dry gas suggestion. And maybe try some Techron as well.(probably not in the same tankfull) I'm always amazed at mechanics seemingly not wanting to believe the onwner of a car when they say thy've noticed a difference in their car's performance. Usually, even if they do detect something slight, they'll say it seems normal if they don't have a CEL or otherwise know how to proceed. If your car 'seems' to require higher octane gas now than it has run well with in the past, you could try; an ECU reset (disconnect neg. batt. term., step on brake pedal, wait 30 minutes, reconnect batt., re-evaluate after driving for a coupla weeks) A Seafoam type treatment. perhaps the cylinders have carbon deposits which effectively raises the compression. (inspect plugs for carbon deposits - also, perhaps the system is running rich? possible Engine temp sensor malfunction?) Read the ECU settings and see if the timing is adjusted reasonably. Also, IAC and MAF (MAP) malfunctions might cause symptoms like this. I hope someone else chimes in here. Subtle problems with no CEL codes are tricky.