1 Lucky Texan

Good call. Be prepared for major torque steer!

I think it may be time to investigate some of Setright's suggestions about the fuel system. Including the injectors. How many miles on this car? Wonder if the O2 sensor's been changed or the cat converter tested? Your car only has a 'bank one' (even though its a flat four - OBDII considers it a single bank 4 cyl) and there is evidently some weird air/fuel issue. It may be worthwhile also removing the covers to confirm a camshaft hasn't jumped a tooth on the timing belt. While it's idling, hold a strip of paper to the tailpipe, if it sucks the paper back in, you may have slipped time or have a broken valve. good luck Carl

Put the OBW in the shop yesterday. I'll report what they find. just FYI

If you don't have and can't get any history on the car, I think you should start with basic, easy stuff. If for no other reason than you'll have good info to proceed with. Get the tank of gas that came in it out. Try throwing some gas dryer, injector cleaner or something and burn it out. Then put in the proper octane clean gas. Change the fuel filter. maybe do a compression test. Try to determine if the car runs better/worse/the same after it warms up. IF it idles rough, pull one plug wire ata time to spot a dead cylinder. Inspect the plugs for 1 or 2 with a radically different appearance. Check ALL ground connections and wiring harnesses to sensors. I feel you may have a sensor that is bad/disconnected but, could be one of several. A radical change after clearing the ECU points to an attempt by the car's computer to radically alter things just to keep running. You likely have a dead sensor or other 'serious' issue confusing the ECU. I dunno

the flat six in my wife's outback is only an inch longer than a 4 banger due to having a chain instead of a timing belt I guess. It might squeeze into a smaller/lighter car. And no scoop/fmic required = more 'stealth'. oh - and NOS

Did this begin after the MAF or other work? Sounds like your car MIGHT be running in 'open loop' (due to a bad connection to a sensor) with low octane gas or something. Or possibly it has 'jumped' time? I dunno

Just a reminder to 'reset' the ECU after a sensor change or other major work. Disconnect neg batt cable, tap the brakes, re-connect after 15-30 minutes or so.

Man. Well, um, maybe get the fuel pressure tested? Also, I assume the battery has been disconnected or the ECU reset after all these? I didn't review this thread - has anyone suggested a mechanic in your area?

good idea though on the test! thanx for reporting back

I wish. We had a thread going on a similar issue and there isn't much out there. Some kind of metal 'U" shaped straps the would would wrap around and up from underneath might work. I've some kinda Mitsubishil plastic piece on a soob but it was screwed into place first anyway. I have a 'project' in mind that would utilize the tow hook opening on my WRX but haven't pursued it. I DID use a mounting plate from autozone on the front of my wife's OBW and on the front of my WRX to sorta stabilize all 4 corners of the plate and shift it upwards. But the plate itself requires 2 screws. sigh here's a pic of the front of my WRX FWIW(sorry it isn't a close up); http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9016&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

ask yourself, if it needed another 2K spent on it in the first 6 months after you bought it - would still be a decent car? Better to skip it now or maybe spend $75 to have a mech give you a list of what it may need and do a compression test. I dunno. There aren't too many used soobs where I live but there are a LOT of used cars. No need to get a questionable one to start with!

possible timing belt tensioner. Or a real internal problem. Can you get the car to an experienced soob mech. before purchase?

wow! You could try cycling some hot vinegar through it. (phosphoric or citric acid would be better I guess)

Maybe some worn out mount bushings or broken bolt somewhere are allowing some kinda movement? odd

Let us know how it works out. And don't be a stranger!

On some soobs I belive there are a coupla connectors under, near, in front of, the drivers door sill that need to be dis-connected (in your case). if no luck here, you might email Joe at http://www.cars101.com or a different dealer.

pretty much what they said. I have had bad tires behave kinda like that on braking once. More likely rotor issues. I learned a lot from this site; http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

I've heard of this before and thought there was a sealant applied to the entire inside of the rim.

If the problem goes away with the fuse in FWD then the dutyCsolenoid is functioning (doesn't mean the TCU or the valve's seat is good though I guess???). Might be worthwhile to get an o'scope on the signal to the solenoid - without the fuse in place of course, to see what the TCU is sending it. maybe a wheel sensor is giving the TCU some bad info? I dunno try searching here for torque bind or duty solenoid threads. Concentrate on any with 5 star ratings of more recent dates.

Well, I now own 2 soobs, but if I wanted something 'van-like' or 'crossover-like' I'd prefer a Honda Odyssey or Toyota Highlander to the Tribeca. in fact, if I'd had a few thousand more dollars when we bought our OBW, I'd have an Odyssey now! I'm sure it will be as reliable as other soobs generally, and I don't mind the looks of it too much (kinda weird seeing SUBARU owners so concerned with the appearance of ANY car! hah!) But the interior design is behind many similar vehicles in terms of function. It may not matter to some folks, but it could affect resale I suppose. I think the center seat is not designed well for car seats, the rear is really a kids only seat, I don't think the radio is DIN compatible either. It's been a while since I read the reviews - but I think those are the 3 biggest issues. meh

Take a look at the cabin air filter instructions at http://www.cars101.com Should be a fairly good guide.

maybe mark the old ones as you remove them, then find the closest 'twin' from the SS lines to reinstall? Interesting, please let us know how it works out OK?

Here's one way to think about it. You have a platform with axles on 4 corners. (car-like) If that platform is parallel to the ground and raised some distance above it such that the axles are all the same height, ANY non-slipping connection from the axle to the ground directly below it will rotate the axles the same speed if the platform moves straight forward mainatining the same height. One side could even be tracked with a belt front to rear like a tank and 2 wheels could be put on the other side. As long as the distance (radius?) from the axle to the ground is the same, the axle must rotate the same as the others.

I think that's me lying on my back at the end of your posts! (please stop hitting me in the crotch!) I have to admit, I'm gonna abandon my position and say you're right. Which means it is quite likely the original idea of running a 'new' tire with lower inflation could be a viable way to prevent triggering AWD engagement on hard surfaces. I was too focused on the static issues and it seems there is a dynamic way the axle speed is increased as lower pressure allows it to be closer to the ground (lower 'radius') I don't know HOW MUCH that distance would need to change to make the axle in question speed up to match the other, 'smaller tire' axles.(In my mind, it now seems that the axle speeds would be equal IF the actual distance from the ground to the center of the axles ['radius'] were all the same - regardless of tire configuration!) Still, it could be a good approach - even if some compromise may be necessary in ride/handling. The low tire is also gonna heat a little more. Still, the CONCEPT is good I now think and my position was wrong and I won't defend it. Both of Subaru's systems (all 3 - DCCD in the STI? also, I dunno how LSD could be involved either) are sensitive to axle speed and 'tire perimeter' is inconsequential to them. maybe the 4EAT would respond better to the technique? It may be that, if a new tire is put on, it could be inflated 2-3 pounds under and the other 3 inflated 2-3 pounds over to bring the AXLE SPEEDS near enough to prevent unnecessary AWD triggering. I dunno if it would be practical - but certainly possible. Thanx for sticking with me OB - you're a gentleman AND a scholar!

Well, it may be my poor public school education, but I don't see any agreement from my link to the idea that any distance smaller than the actual perimeter of the tire is covered in a single revolution of an 'under inflated' tire. quote from my link; >>>> The centerline of the axle is now lower (closer to the ground) than the ideal condition where the contact is a line. Note that the length (circumference) of the tread hasn't changed, only the shape has. It doesn't matter if its distorted into an ellipse, triangle, square, or any other shape, the length of the perimeter doesn't change. This is the distance that the tire travels in one revolution of the axle. <<<<< As for 'pulling' that could also be from increased drag and altered suspension geometry. Though I suspect the decreased radius is at least partly responsible - even if it isn't really a 'radius'! I think we can agree to disagree for now. Though it is fascinating, it still may be of less than practical concern as regards the fairly small 1/4" number from subaru. I've read of other 4WD manufacturers suggesting 1.5"! (though, if those are larger tires the actual spread in terms of percentage may be less extreme than at first glance. still........?) thanx guys