1 Lucky Texan

Is there a way to monitor the voltage? maybe the alt is cutting out or, as suggested , some kinda wiring, grounding problem. maybe pulling, pushing, bending some wiring harnesses at idel would help find the general area that causes the problem. interesting

Aha! I think someone here has a cool, less expensive fix for the u-joint. try a search including the word Ford. I think that's it. Anyway, there's way to weld in a different joint. Oil leaks COULD be put off, just keep an eye on the level. maybe wait till a timing belt change is required.

Do keep in mind, that money (and I agree you probably don't need everything they mentioned and other stuff can wait) is only 6-8 car payments or so on a new car! (which isn't really new anyway - try taking a brand new car from the dealers lot to another lot and have them make an offer to buy it - you'll see it's a used car then!) I am of the camp that, if a car is meeting your needs, and can be made reliable, it's usually worth repairing. naturally, some of us are in a postion to replace our cars occasionally and that can be fun too, just not always neccesary. maybe your car would be a good candidate for a school auto tech class project?

MT? could the clutch be slipping? maybe it's worn out or some oil is on it? I dunno Carl

I've been to Colorado, you guys have soobs like we have pickup trucks! I'd bet you have as many soobs on your block as I have in my zipcode! hah! Maybe some kind soul here would let you mail your remotes (maybe one at a time?) for testing? I dunno

It would be nice if, you either, knew someone with the same style remotes you could test on your car OR with the same style system CAR on which you could reprogram to test your remotes. Maybe a neighbor or a friendly dealership repair facility? I dunno

How old are your struts? They may be weak/blown allowing too much travel. Also, sometimes tires will begin developing tread separation and act like that.

hold a strip of paper near the tailpipe while someone cranks the car. If the paper tries to 'suck back in' the tailpipe - you have incorrect valve timing or a stuck valve. I recall reading here it can take several seconds to pressure up the fuel system if it has been opened. After cranking, if you took out a plug would it be wet with fuel?

dig around at www.cars101.com for instructions for 'learning a new remote' just to make certain that procedure is correctly done for your remotes. Or maybe a dealer would have some ideas. If you decide to purchase remotes from - say - Ebay, I THINK there is an FCC number on the back that must match your old remote. please post whatever you find out OK? EDIT; after re-reading your post it seems you have all the above stuff under control. The only thing I can think of now would be some type of grounding/wiring issue or a bad keyless reciver unit. Might be worthwhile tighening up/cleaning ground connections and re-seating connectors to the unit. I dunno

I'm not sure what the difference would be, but try contacting Jamie at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com - they DO show deflectors for turbo legacys - bu I dunno why the mask/bra would not work. You might also consider Rockblocker or other clear film. often available as a diy kit or from window tinting companies. here's where I saw some bras; https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/index.php?cPath=31_42&sort=1a&page=2

Be sure to reset the ECU after any sensor change or significant work on the engine/emissions system.

^^^^^^what he said. Don't wait till it destroys your crank - it's been known to happen.

No, there are 2 sensors (on most 'recent' models I guess) near each other, a one wire sensor (IIRC) for the gauge and a 2-3 wire sensor for the ECU. If that one goes bad, the ECU thinks the car is cold and runs a rich A/F map - like a 'choke'. Seems to be a very common failure.

No clue. maybe try to tape up some parts of the windshield wipers? Look around on the firewall for a missing grommet? (what options did you get? maybe they installed something that goes through the f'wall and needs a grommet) I dunno

well, externally, reduce as much rotating mass as practical. Lighter flywheel (some folks report CEL problems under 8-11 lbs. I'd a get a 13 lb FW). lightened (but maybe not underdriven) crank, alt,PS pulleys. And lighter rims too(SSR, Kosei, etc.). Those items don't ADD power, but remove losses and get you a little quicker response too. sounds really fun!

What does it smell like? Toasted marshmallows, rubber? Do you see any vapor? what color is it?

17s are for GO, 18s are for SHOW! lol!

[stroking soul stripe and gazing up]yeah...vodka......

here's a long shot - do you have mixed tire types? say radilas and bias-ply? I've ridden in a car like that - it felt like we were on top of a bowling ball! very weird.

Seems like the ABS light is also senstive to low or 'noisy' output from the alternator (IIRC). Maybe a speed sensor is bad? I might be tempted to try a different dealer too. let us know OK?

Well, I have a suggestion, but I feel it is unlikely to make a noticeable difference. Reset the ECU. Either with a OBD II scanner or by disconnecting the neg. battery cable, tapping the brakes, waiting 20-40 minutes. Then reconnect. It make take more than one tank to know if it helped because the ECU will need to relearn all the sensors from a 'standard' map starting point. This procedure is satndard for most changes to the emiisions,air/fuel system. I will, say that the use of a K&N filter is still - um - controversial so you should be prepared for a negative comment or 2. Personally, I'm not convinced there is either significant proof of benefit OR detriment. More like a gimmick I suppose. Also, there HAVE been instances of excess oil getting on MAF sensors and causing problems but it seems that would be unlikely with a factory treated filter and more likely with a user over-oiled filter. Also, make darn certain the filter box is clipped back in place properly and no hoses were accidentally disconnected elsewhere. let us know what you discover OK?

Any links to diy alignment help?

dang. sorry, didn't know how far back the option went. I guess the coil could be clogged with leaves and cr@p though. sigh

In action at Motorsport Ranch;

Check the brake pad wear indicators first - they can be intermittent before they start squealing regularly. Also check for the caliper to be free to slide on the pins.