1 Lucky Texan

Man, that's fantastic. I bet some folks who try don't clear the ECU. Carl

Drill down through here; http://www.boxer4racing.com/ I bought a muffler from them and the price and delivery and communication was great. No other connection etc. there are likely other sources around too. Carl

Interesting. Did you do an ECU reset before this experiment? Otherwise it could take a while for the computer to adjust to the acetone use. Carl

Well, in keeping with the title of the thread, remove all unnecessary weight - maybe even some necessary! lol! Take out any seats that aren't used, remove the spare and associated tools. Keep windows rolled up, especially at freeway speeds. Remove bike rack/whatever crossbars. Oh, and only keep 1/3 tank of gas in the car to save even more weight. Install vacuum gauge and take nipper's advice and drive while keepin the vacuum as high as possible. any more gas saving tips out there? Carl

Well, without being able to closely examine the problem, we're all just guessing. But I'd be surprised if just the briefest touch of a hone didn't solve the issue. I once had to repair a Honda that sucked a valve into cyl.#2 and I just honed that one cyl. and put in a new piston (because the old one was destryoed by valve chunks) with new rings of course. I only had slightly higer oil consumption. When the walss of the cyl were impacted, there is no real loss of material. It forms 'craters' with rasied edges. The hone removes the raised areas but obviously cannot 'fill' the pits - so a little oil stays in there and gets burned. Your issue is a little different with oxide xtals 'growing' from the cyl wall. I still expect though that any pits left will be miniscule after the briefest 'touch-up. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if you used a scotch brite pad and just reached in there and 'wiped' away the rust. And of course , use of ANY abrasive will require meticulous flushing to prevent contamination of the oil,etc. Again, we're not there. It also depends on your expectations. I'd think the concern with having it bored over would be balance issues but ???? Just try the minimal amount of abrasion first and examine the results, you can get more agressive later if required. I dunno

^^^^^^^ +1 Carl

I don't what specific issues you may be dealing with, but I have read of many people sand/bead blasting wheels, re-sealing the inside and painting, plating, powder coating them, etc. Even some of the guys that just used Rustoleum or something report that it holds up fairly well for a coupla years before they feel the need to touch them up. I guess it depends on the condition they're in and what your expectations are. Carl

I think if it's leaking externally, I'd give it a shot. But I doubt it can seal against cylinder pressures if the gasket has failed that way. Carl

I don't recall exactly, maybe 4x6??? argh! email them or try searching for wagonmafia (one word) over at http://www.nasioc.com Carl

you mean like a sticker?; http://www.wagonmafia.com/

At this point I don't think there is anything wrong with letting the guy take another look at it. Maybe someoen here will understand exactly what's going on with the car , I am ignorant of that issue- but in the real world, people make mistakes, its how they own up to and rectify them that shows quality. If he offers a reason it happened, realize that is not the same as an excuse. Only you can decide if he is 'excused'. But there may be an easily explained reason and perhpas it is due to a simple oversight like underfilling the tranny with fluid or some kind of reset/reprogram as suggested. let us know how it works out. Carl

It educated me. I try to recommend it when I can. I'm sure there must be folks that disagree with it, but I feel it is a good mix of experience and 'science'. Carl

I once had some tread seperation cause vibration that was worse when braking. But brake rotors are a more likely source of the problem - likely the fronts. the 'technical white papers'/whatever at www.stoptech.com have a section called the myth of warped rotors or something, good reading. Carl

Seems to me the 2 (only?) things that are different between being at a dead stop and cruising would be the IAC and the TPS. I assume when you say 'nothing' happens that the engine.s revs are extremely slow to respond - not that the revs move up as expected and the tranny doesn't respond! I dunno Carl

Good point on the 'proprietary' issue. WD-40 is mostly stoddard solvent, folks THINK the remainder is a silicone lubricant. Carl

wow - very good succinct breakdown from the lousy links I provided. thanx Steve Carl

In the 'old days' we used to use berrymans B-12 Chemtool in a similar manner folks use the seaFoam. Any idea if they are similar in composition? maybe SeaFoam is safer for O2 sensors or other components? Berrymans would wash away varnish from the carb throat while you were watching it go in. just wondering edit; any chemists care to compare and contrast the MSDS data? berryman; http://msds.ehs.cornell.edu/msds/msdsdod/a286/m142960.htm seafoam http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_DC14_US.pdf Carl

Investigate getting a recumbent bike. I recommend Rans or maybe CycleGenius or Sun or a used Bike E (what I have). No strain on hands, forearms shoulders etc. can't go over the handle bars and break a wrist shoulder or neck. You can breathe better too. I was also wondering if a 'dead spot' on the TPS could maybe cause your symptoms. If you - um - 3/4 'stomp on it' does it behave the same? Seems like the ECU can't get fuel through the injectors - yeah maybe fuel delivery? good luck and feel better soon Carl

Man that's great news! glad it's running ok now. Carl

Nipper's right. A 10 year old soob could need a sensor or 2 and new plug wires. More importantly, if the service history is unknown, you need to service most things anyway. The tranny flush makes a lot of sense. Carl

This is a tough one, wouldn't hurt to have several things checked. I'd say possible clogged cat converter (especially if the problem is more likely after the car is warmed up) possible fuel starvation too I guess. maybe bad plug wires? carl

I'd avoid them as they likely have incorrect offset for Soobs. getting some soob takeoffs would probably be OK. check http://www.tirerack.com for info on rim and tire specs, reviews of tires and even a way to enter you car ,select the body color, and 'try on' different kinds of rims. Its a good resource even if you don't do business with them.(I have and am a happy customer). many folks that buy WRXs and STIs swap out rims (I did) and the takeoffs are often sold - check the 4sale and maybe post in the wanted forum here and over at http://www.nasioc.com Carl

I had a '51 Chevy - but 3 on the tree. Kept eating generators till an old timer told me to put a ground strap from the engine to the body. Original grounding mod? lol! many times I would purposefully seek out inclines to park on in case I had to roll start it. man I STILL hate vacuum windshield wipers! Carl

there are 3-4 OBDII protocols so it is POSSIBLE to get a scanner that won't read a soob or get one with limited functions that won't clear a CEL I guess. The soob protocol is ISO something IIRC. It DOES NOT have to be a Subaru/FHI tool. Innova si one that gets mentioned a lot as well as some that are laptop based software. Carl

You might try an ECU reset, just in case. I'd also like to know if a strip of paper held at the tailpipe while idling tries to 'suck in'. If a valve is still open a little, you might get some negative pressure, indicating valve timing is off. Carl