1 Lucky Texan

good idea! or build one of these; http://www.meyersmanx.com/ Carl

I think it depends on how much and what shape surface area is actually supporting the engine. If a bolt or something pokey had 50-75 lbs of force over it - it could punch through. But a square of paneling or plywood under the engine would distribute the weight over many square inches and prevent any puncture. That should do it. If something happens - a used tray can usually be had on ebay - just got one for my WRX as a matter of fact. under fifteen bucks shipped! Carl

I have an '06 WRX wagon. I am VERY impressed with my Sromung twin-tip axle back. Great tone, not annoying on the highway. I doubt it gave any significant power increase - I dunno. But I love the sound. I also saved 3.5 pounds per corner and got wider tires, by swapping out the stock wheels for SSR in 17x7.5 . AND revovered some money by selling my take-offs! I got tint and clear-film hood,fender,mirror protection (rockblocker type stuff) and a dashmat. Next on the list will be speaker/stereo upgrade and SPT or other springs. Oh yeah, I bought mud flaps off ebay from England but haven't put 'em on yet. I guess I'm still not sure about it. you can get some ideas about wheels from http://www.tirerack.com - even puts up a pic of you car in your color and switches to whatever wheels you click. also, some feedback on accessories is here; http://www.subarureview.com/ here's a link to my car photos; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9980&cat=500&ppuser=105 Carl

^^^^ I wouldn't wanna fall overboard in it! Too heavy to try swimming in a friggin helmet! Carl

I dunno, examine the CV boots, maybe have someone drive away from you and try to see if it 'crab walks' down the road. Look under the carpet and in the spare tire well for sand ( flood car?) Look around for overspray from bodywork. Carl

The limitation may be the rims as much as the fenders. try 'plus 1' sizing your vehicle at www.tirerack.com or emailing Luke there. no connection - just a satisfied customer.

Email EBC? or as suggested, http://www.nasioc.com

Rob has a wise approach I think. Sometimes it's just time for a change. I think your first offer on the 2000 should be at least 15% below asking. Sometimes its tricky to convince people you're serious AND make a low offer. Just bug them with questions, vissit for test rides twice, point out the potential costs of headgaskets and timing belts, etc. Feel free to tell them you're very interested, but it may not be finacially sound expense for your family, etc. And, maybe someone who is close to you could give you alittle more for you old car if you promise to help them make it reliable. A school kid or someone needing a work car, etc. good luck (and post pics of your new ride!) Carl

So, no1scout, what did you find? Carl

If it's just oil on the element, and you chose a compatible cleaner (throttle body?) I'm sure I would try that first. But there may also be a way to measure the voltage or possibly the resistance of the MAF too and determine if it is open or shorted or something that cleaning can't affect. Carl

This has been covered before and I'm not sure if a definitive answer has been found for all cars under all conditions. I subscribe to the theory that the engineers have no incentive to recommend an expensive fuel for no good reason. It is counterproductive for marketing. Even if there were no difference in overall fuel COST (not mileage) there may be differences in engine and intake/exhaust component longevity. Knock sensors are not there to permit regular use of lower than recommended octane fuel - they are to protect the engine from bad gas or emergency use of lower octane fuel, or environmetal conditions that could lead to knock (hot weather?) Xylene and toluene can be used to boost octane if you have access to inexpensive, uncontaminated sources. Likely that is what the boosters on the shelf at the parts stores are anyway. Instructions for use can be found on the net. I think if you buy a 55 gallon drum it almost saves you some money. I dunno what you tell the insurance company after the fire though! Carl

Sometimes Autozone will read codes at no charge. fyi Carl

excellent! btw- I noticed on page 9 it says 5-30w oil is recommended to improve fuel economy. NOT engine longevity! (*ducking*) lol! Carl

At one time, there was a way to replace just the wire/film element itself withoiut buying an entire MAF. If you feel the MAF is the problem, maybe contact Jamie at www.subarugenuineparts.com and ask her about that. I THINK, if you unplug the MAF, and the problem is better(because it uses a default map) it means the MAF is definitely bad. But , since you have some mods, that may not work. I wonder if an O2 sensor 'bypass' mod could be bad? anyway, good luck and let us know what you find out. Carl

Any difference between cold or hot engine? I'm thinking maybe the cat is clogged or something. I agree, a flashing (any) CEL should have code(s) stored. Do u run an oiled filter?(K & N) They have been linked to bad MAFs - search here for MAF sensor cleaning, if done carefully it can help. I dunno Carl

I think there is fairly sophisticated engineering to get the noise down. Plus, they may be heavier. Nissan uses a chain in V6s - probably a lot of others do too. I dunno why it isn't universally used.

It takes a few drive cycles for the knock sensor to advance the timing from any retardation it does on the lower octane. Better to pick a grade and stick with it. If you DO want to swap grades regilaraly, reset the ECU after filling up with the different grade. I run premium all the time. Carl

That engine has a chain so no worrys on belt replacement. Confirm that the FWD fuse is NOT installed and make some slow figure eights to check for 'torque bind' (try a search) If you cannot confirm any service, immediately plan to flush and refill the tranny. You probably should've had a mech check the car before pruchasing, but doing it now and getting some thinks looked at may cost a little - but likely will prevent a breakdown. make sure any service done to the cooling/radiator system is done by someone who understands how to properly 'burp' the system. Plugs would be another area to inspect. Pulling ECU codes and maybe testing for 'lazy' O2 sensors would be a good idea. Maybe change differential grease. Inspect CV boots and brakes. others may have some ideas. (my wife has an '03 OBW H6, much fewer miles than yours but it has been reliable so far!)

It may be time to focus on fuel pump pressure and pressure regulator. maybe a leak is allowing the rails to de-pressurize or something? If you immediately restart after turning the engine off and it starts OK - I'd suspect fuel pressure issues. I dunno.

A bad rad cap, or some kinda problem with the o'flow line or bottle might allow the cooling system to suck air back in. Is your car frequently parked outside under trees? Or driven over muddy roads? There are drains under the body panels and under the wiper area that could be clogged, allowing water to be retained somewhere abnormally. I duuno

I agree, there should be minimal gas/voids in the coolant system. Put it on a ramp and let it warm up to 'operating' temp with the rad cap OFF. rev it a few times, make sure the heater is on max, refill raditaor with coolant, confirm o'flow bottle has proper to slightly above max coolant level. Allow car to cool completely. Drive and check o'flow bottle for several drive cycles. If the problem persists - likely a HG issue. Also, consider replacing the rad cap. I've read of many people finding their factory cap has gone bad. Once the radiator gulps in some air, it can get to the heater core and 'hang around' on some soobs.

Does it happen with the A/C CONFIRMED in the off postion (no a/c no defrost)? Some vehicles can have a 'wooshing' noise when low on refrigerant. Recently had 2 hoses replaced under warranty on my wife's '03 OBW due to leaking suction and discharge hoses on the A/C compressor.(thank you Teape Subaru!) OR you have some kind of clogged vent drain? I dunno

That does seem like a simple way to work the circuit - but a very 50s type of technology! Seems like we could do better nowadays. Even using an LED would increase the reliability vastly! Another good reason to pay attention to what bulbs are working when you rotate the key through to start your car! thanx guys

Can someone point to a schematic or explanation of this circuit? It seems weird to me that a simple bulb in the dash would be so critical. Carl (displaying his ignorance onec again!)