1 Lucky Texan

bad/'improper' cap.

to me, if the ECU reset didn't help, that points more towards a physical problem. it still may be useful to get live data. A smartphone app and a ELM327 BT adapter or, do as Montana Tom suggested and get comp. readings. Vacuum gauge testing is occasionally helpful.

It can be tricky to burp all the air out of a recently drained/filled soob cooling system. did you replace the thermostat? it MUST be OEM-style (see pic below) jiggle pin at 12 o'clock. get nose of car up on ramps/curb, squeeze hoses, confirm the rad is full with a good rad cap and the overflow tank is at proper level or a little above. Run car till fans come on, rev the car to get good flow, let it cool for hours, check that rad is full, top-off overflow, run again till fans come on, let it cool. Re-check overflow. The system 'should, be able to purge a small amount of air this way. If it still overheats, there is a problem. When the gauge maxed-out, was coolant pushed out of the overflow?

the fan cuts off? or, does the fan continue blowing but the temperature is not hot? (why the heater in July ?)

well, belt needs to come off, leave the crank where it is, but re-position the cams , re-install the belt. on my WRX, the DS intake cam REALLY wants to flip - it can be tricky and some folks have tried to use document clips and visegrip pliers, etc. to keep things in line. there are several videos that give some pointers, here's one;

more info on engine would help. if you pulled the pin on the tensioner, re-compress it VERY slowly or seals inside can be damaged. search on-line for pics of the front of your engine type for alignment details, maybe a youtube video even. search also for the tooth count. After alignment and pulling the tensioner pin, rotate the crank sprocket with a wrench 2 times to bring the marks back around - do a tooth count to triple check before starting the car.

it needs to go about 5 teeth more clockwise. there is a groove/dash/line on one of those tabs at the back of the sprocket - it should be aligned with the groove in the cast 'boss' right above where the crank pos, sensor is. the 'triangle/arrow' will be at about 3 o'clock

When the ECU is reset, the car is reverted back to a stock ROM 'map' of settings - ignoring the sensors until after a coupla 'drive cycles' and the montors are complete. That is, the computer has not learned anything from the sensors and starts with a 'locked in' A:F setting and 'typical' ignition advance. If there's little/no difference in how the car runs after a reset, I doubt you have a bad sensor. I think you should perhaps look for vacuum leaks, cap/o-ring issue on fuel pump, dropped valve guide or burned valve, transmission problem ,etc.

if the problem is gone immediately after an ECU reset (battery disconnect of maybe scanner) it probably is an a:f - related sensor or wiring to one , if not, could be something more a physical nature. Automatic? maybe try the FWD fuse. any torque bind when maneuvering tight - like parking?

so....what's the first year of the 'good' CVTs?

440, very possible hole in fuel filler pipe (behind the plastic) or destroyed seal on gas cap on a '98, you can probably ignore the 136 for now (post cat o2 sensor) 1510/16 point to IACV, some folks have had luck cleaning it - some needed to clean it again, others have found bad wiring/connectoer - some need to replace it. 106, intake manifold pressure - saw one post that indicated a small vacuum line was loose? If you have a smartphone, Torqu app and a cheap bluetooth adapter can get you live data - check amazon for bafx or veepeak ELM327 BT adapter

look for wetness/fuel in the vacuum line from the FPR. sometimes the diaphragm leaks. does your scanner get fuel trims?

I'd def. try horsehockey's idea like this; pull the 4 plugs, rig a way to keep the vacuum hose in place and rotate the crank pulley around with a wrench - that should present a chance for air to flow backwards thru each intake runner in case that part got down that far.

maybe look up - frankenmotor ;

rotate crank to open intake on cyl 1, take out spark plug, attach compressor hose, blow the plastic backwards out the the way it went in?

yes, many dealerships will try to brow-beat owners into an 'accelerated' maintenance schedule. They just do it for $$$ reasons. Insist on following the schedule in the manual (which, you can have done by anyone, including yourself or independent shop) UNLESS the car actually is used in an 'extreme duty' manner.

generally, swaps are doable but are EXTREMELY involved. you can, however, make changes to the suspension and braking of your current car that will make it more fun to throw around the corners. Refresh the struts, heavier rear sway bar or even stiffer springs, sportier exhaust, lighter weight rims...

cool!, there's a way to get a blink code from the computer, might yield some clues as to what's wrong with it. http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

was work done before this began? engine removed or a lot of parts removed for access? wondering if breather/PCV hoses are misrouted somehow or brake booster hose reversed or misrouted?

Good for the power steering system too.

probably have to confirm some numbers off the trans and rear diff or, confirm proper tire pressure, go to some big parking lot/abandoned road, mark the tires with chalk at the bottom, drive straight for - 10 (?) or so revolutions of a tire, then compare front and rear tire chalk marks. if rears are 'significantly' off from the fronts (over 2 inches or so ???) further investigation may be needed. but if it wasn't severe and has been deteriorating, it may just be some buildup of deposits or odd failure of the duty c vlave or the wet clutch pack? The 'basket' in the clutchpack can have roughness/grooves worn into it and may not release the clutches well. maybe a previous owner negectfully drove with mismatched tires and damaged the clutch pack unit....?

95 may not be OBDII - it was for some cars, but not all I think. Maybe you can get a blink code out of it?

just FYI, it's OK to drive with the FWD fuse in as long as you need, just remember that on actual slippery/poor surfaces, you have no AWD ability. this car never had a replacement rear diff or transmission did it? Mismatched final drive ratios will cause torque bind. You said it has done this your entire ownership? Wonder if the previous owner swapped a mismatched unit into the drivetrain.

does it run better immediately after an ECU reset? If not, I'd look for a physical problem; vacuum or intake mani leak or dropped valve guide/tight valve as mentioned, etc, if it does run better after a reset, probably a bad sensor - a:f or knock sensor.....? maybe as simple as cleaning the MAF ???

backfiring is a symptom that might point to slipped timing.