1 Lucky Texan

typical parts store rebuilts are often wrongly stocked/buoilt for the 3.0 motors. Sure you are getting proper alts? I'm CERTAINLY no expert, but the 3.0 unit may have higher impedance on the 'field' input wire and those (possibly) incorrect alts are sinking too much current from the ECU's control output. Might be worth trying a used alt or, if you still have your original, have a local rebuilder go thru it for you. there's also DBW or maniac electric or ???

check post 15 here; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/34827-automatic-gearbox-fault.html kinda seems like the final 3 digits are for ordering parts - some build details internally ?

so many folks have fixed whining or notchy-feeling power steering with just an o-ring I have read of people modifying Jeep or Chrysler wiper bushings - or the replacement bushing kit parts, and epoxying them into their wiper linkages. Or, they get a new wiper linkage.

^^^^^^such a good post get an OEM spin on filter. be sure the air/oil separator plate on the back of the engine isn't seeping too.

front and rear final drives must match. Some folks swap in rear diffs with a new trans of different FD. But best to find direct replacement of course. checked car-part.com? LKQ? maybe try ebay local pick-up and craigslist in case someone is parting-out.

do tight circles on a paved lot - feel for any binding/jerking - could be torque bind, if 5 spd trans, do this after the car is fully warmed-up. do highway entrances at full throttle as well as exits with max engine braking - watch the temp gauge.

in the past, you could get a cap from an 05 filter kit (throw the filter away), and a 928 metric o-ring for under $75 or so - be sure to inspect any used fuel pump's cap closely - new o-ring would be a good idea too. check; https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-42072AE00A-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00L2OWO2U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538484308&sr=8-6&keywords=2005+subaru+fuel+filter there's a 'dimple' on one of the cap's tabs that I guess is intended to be a stop - don't overtighten and force the dimple over the edge of the plastic lug it's on.

P0420 is almost never the cat (though of course, cats can go bad, expecially if there has been some abuse previously like chronic misfiring) good to get everything else checked and sorted before blaming the cat. live data may help a lot here.

CEL on? maybe scan for pending codes anyway

what's the diameter of the UEL header exit? I'm no expert, but I have read that dia. changes along the exhaust are bad - you get weird nodes and uneven flow. You want the same dia. all the way thru I think. I love the Stromung twin tip on my WRX FWIW.

I think clogged PCV valves/hose can increase likelihood of some seal leaks.

is there any oil on the plug wire boots? might have leaky valve cover gaskets.

^^^^ that plus, any change in sound with brake use?

hmmm....maybe check the axle nut?

gasket? aren't these on with RTV or similar?

look at youtube for a video or 2? it's pretty easy but, some folks have messed-up the tensioner.... if you can drive something else for a few days, have a local rebuilder fix your OEM alternator, or consider replacing it with a used OEM (car-part.com) or check into a DBW unit or one from https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/real.html typical units from VatoZone or similar are not well respected and can have short lifespans.

There were older models with CVT too - but I think it required modern fluids and sophisticated electronics to be able to transfer 'significant' power in a unit small and light enough, and with decent reliability, for a motor vehicle. I think the first Justy's were CVT. Using the van Doorne trans? those had less force on them than modern cars I suppose. CVTt has a fairly long history. Benz may have had a European patent in 1886, got a US patent in 1935. Some early motorcycles had stepless trans. Volvo had them , Audi, etc. There may also be systems that use variable volume hydraulic pumps and 'nutating cones' , toroidal systems, planetary gears??? etc. I guess they all have their own set of issues.....

car-part.com , maybe LKQ , their systems already have it figured out and should only show compatible parts. but, if you are shopping craigslist or a pull-a-part yard, take Ido's advice above. There 'may' be a thread at NASIOC with a list of compatible vehicles. I think there were some minor improvements internally on some(?) 2006 and later 5spds if you can find one that's compatible.

car-part.com will list compatible trans for your car.

vector - do you have grinding noises or just failure to go into gear? does reverse work? these other guys here are excellent mechs, but not being with the car, you need to shre exactly what's going on. if you do decide to swap, you MUST get a trans with the same final drive ratio. There could also be an issue with how the clutch is operated I think?

awesome, be glad to start reading your posts!

7. check bulb SOCKETS for corrosion inside at the bottom 8. put the hatch up and see if you have the same problem(wires might be abraded/shorting in the hatch boot)

does the auto HVAC system use that number? my WRX is consistently 7 degrees low, dunno where the sensor is, only found the one on the Outback which seems accurate.

you could easily have more than on issue and knock sensors are frequently bad on older soobs. also, cheap ebay knock sensors seem to work fine for people, easy swap too.

1157 type bulbs sometimes have shorted filaments. they are dual fil. and one can sag and touch - weirdness can happen.