1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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there should be an amplifier back there but, Subaru has moved it around across the years and models. maybe search the diagrams at www.opposedforces.com ? -
^^^^ if the strut was replaced/rebuilt - the conical spacer at the top may be flipped. narrow side must go up. or maybe some odd brake dust shield issue?
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^^^ yep, have had 2 bad bearings. Front right on my WRX, hellish grinding noise - probably could be heard from 100 yards away by the time I got it to the shop. left rear on same car, silent, found it with an up-down rocking test, moved about 2mm, other side solid.
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check sway bar endlinks, they can rattle.Check rear bushings on lower control arms. second advice above, KYB struts, other stuff if inspection warrants. best DIY, remove strut assemblies, take them and new parts to a shop and pay them to move everything over.
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cool that GD (assuming that's who you spoke with) did that for you, he has helped tons of folks.
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tapping toes........ ......waiting for that referral check in the mail.... .......
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less likely to be solenoid failure I think because the 'default' before 2005 is AWD. seems like a mechanical/physical issue.
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Jo - you could also ask for a shop recommendation in a new thread - someone may know a soob-friendly mechanic near Westerly good luck
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o-ring (s) on the suction hose adapter on top of the pump.
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no experience with models this new, but both my soobs began sucking air into the fluid - visible bubbles/foaming in the reservoir. They both whined, the WRX had 'pulsing' vibration in steering wheel.
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check the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line for wet with fuel. check fuel pump for cap/o-ring problem?
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yeah, call 3-4 highly rated shops for estimates. get name-brand ceramic pads.
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On floating caliper systems, I think they should go on the inside? maybe check drawings at www.opposedforces.com?
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well there's your problem
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check crutchfield.com , you may discover that upgrading both units, perhaps even leaving a spot for a 'cubby' is quite affordable. Of course, your actual purchase could be from amazon or ??? the flickering lights seem like a ground issue, though, it's hard to say for certain.
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or rebuild the solenoid, contact and plunger kits are available.
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ido - what is the difference in auto vs 5spd starters?
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doh, beat while typing
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get a used starter from a wreck - car-part.com ? be prepared to put new contacts inside if it is high miles. rebuilt units are notoriously risky.
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tires must be identical; brand/model/size and near each other in wear. (without getting into esoterics like measuring rolling radii, etc.)
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if you're able to warm it first, then spray with PB Blaster or brush atf/acetone on it , as it cools, it may pull some penetrant inside. (careful with acetone around any painted/rubber/plastic items you care about) good luck
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any 'thunk' noises starting forwards or backwards? if so, check the rear bushing on the lower control arm too. sway bar endlinks worth a look too I guess.
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hair dryer - good tip!
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surprised in doesn't bind doing tight circles. all 4 tires same brand/model/size/wear? any chance a trans or rear diff have been swapped? sometimes, fresh trans fluid can help. 3 drain/fill cycles get you over 80% new fluid. put in the FWD fuse and you can drive indefinitely.
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power ports are also fused directly behind the port so, you probably need to get the cig lighter out of the trim and check it's backside. not uncommon for older soobs to have bad wiring in the boot from the body to the hatch. Soldering in splices can help for quite a while and is cheaper than a new harness. other issues you mention could be related to ground connections that need refreshing. take em loose. wire brush every surface of the lugs and the bolt and the body or manifold w'ever it came from, re-assemble and smear with dielectric grease. hope others here have more specific help for you.
