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Found 6 results

  1. New to the subaru world, ive always played with small and big block chevys, and aircraft engines. Well now my newest ride is a 14' fiberglass okie gator hull, with an ej20 turbo motor. Im not sure what year, maybe you guys can help me out. Its had a 2:1 belt reduction, because you can only turn a prop at 3100 rpm max, so 3100 rpms on a little ej wont do much. So we reduct them 2:1 so you can turn 6000 rpm max without over spinning the prop. Just a little something different for your forums!
  2. Hi guys, I have a 2010 WRX thats only hitting about 9lbs of boost on 91 octane SF Intake stage 1 tune Cobb AP. I was wondering if this is normal or should i be seeing higher PSI Levels? I also have noticed a exhaust smell coming from engine bay on passenger side...
  3. Hello, I just installed a VDO vac/Boost combo gauge in my gl10 turbo. Measured at the plenum (after Throttle Body): -20 inHg at idle (looks good) ~4psi at wide open. (low?) Measured at turbo outlet 0 inHG at idle ~8psi at wide open. So i have two questions, but they relate to one another. I get with the throttle plate closed (idle) i shouldn't see almost any vacuum at the turbo outlet. However how come i don't see vacuum when i press on the accel and i only see when boost starts to build? Shouldn't the (negative) pressure wave travel down the intake? Or is the flow rate too low to see a difference? That would explain the lower boost numbers, however what number is more accurate when determining performance; why do most boost gauges measure from the wastegate if those numbers don't take vacuum into account? And which is more accurate? Does my engine see "8 psi of boost" (the actual boost the turbo puts out) or "4 psi of boost" (the actual amount of boost minus the residual vacuum) Or is my turbo not flowing enough compressed air? Color me confused.
  4. just wondering what timing i should run with my EA82M (Mongrel) engine.. everyone has been telling me that it wouldnt run right, if at all. ive already done a 3 mile run up hill holding 6 psi boost the entire time and it never leaned out, i have my original timing for now cuz i dont have a timing light yet (22* or 24*) i have 02 readings in car at all times and havent had any problems yet runs perfect, just have to finish up my vaccum system now!! thanks for the help!
  5. Hey everyone, My 87 'Rally Wagon' had recently started showing signs of HG failure (frothy coolant & coolant loss) so I pulled the engine and found that it was just my heads that were toast... so, I've decided to keep my low compression block (7.7:1) for a spare and I'm putting the old heads onto an XT block for fun(: the XT engine-(MPFI 9.5:1 comp) What I want to know about this is if there's anything other than the obvious dangers of running boost with high compression.. if anybody has built one of these and run it dependably for any amount of time, what did you do? What should I look out for? And what's the most common failure point of these? This is my test engine, and if I like it I'm going to build a fresh block, ported heads, ported turbo, and eventually a propane set-up Thanks everyone for any input, I'm not expecting anything more than a mass amout of power and eventually a big bang over time with this one haha(: but id like to delay the bang until I get it all running right
  6. I'm new to the Subaru as well as boosted arena so please bear with my seemingly naive questions. Engine: 1998 WRX STI Version V RA 2.0L EJ207 (Completely stock internals) ECU: 6S Turbo: Stock VF28 Exhaust: 3'' Turboback 5zigen exhaust. I currently have an aftermarket MBC (Halman) installed running approximately 10 psi of boost (its a daily driven car). 1. Are there any issues running such low boost? Research suggests that these engines ran 17-18psi stock. 2. Wastegate pressure (if I remember correctly) is circa 7-9psi. I don't quite understand how I can reconnect the OEM Boost Solenoid, I'll appreciate if anyone can supply me with some images of an engine bay and the appropriate connections etc. Effectively then, will adjusting the MBC to run the desired 18psi be equivalent to reconnecting the OEM Boost Solenoid? IMO reconnecting the OEM solenoid seems safer as proper adjustments can be accurately made by the ECU. I recently installed an AEM Wideband and A/F ratio at idle was averaged to be 14.7±0.2 and 10.0 at WOT. The WOT A/F ratio seems to be quite rich which prompted my question regarding running LOWER than stock boost pressures and its effect on the ability of the ECU to compensate effectively. Prompt replies and any knowledgeable insight will be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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