Trying to figure out if I have time to do the LSD conversion on the 3.9 in the XT6 before I leave next Wednesday.

 

Rough estimate on doing the conversion itself? 1 hour....5 hours?

 

Any parts I should replace while it's apart - like the rear axle stub seals?

 

That might put a damper on it...getting those seals any time soon?

 

Does anyone know where the conversion is since searching for LSD probably isn't going to work?

The hardest part is getting the ring gear bolts broken loose, they are a pita.

Should take about a hour to do the job, but thats not including install.

Heres the links I found, one with pics. They are in the USRM.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49919

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66430

If you know what you are doing, and you have all the right tools, and everything goes exactly like it should, you can do it in an hour easy. If you are like me, it will take 4+ hours to do it for the first time, with stripped stub bolts on both the donor diff and the one you are swapping, some clearance issues, and not having the right socket. you REALLY need to have the E10 Torx deep socket, I tried using a couple regular sockets that fit OK, and they worked 50% of the time, which was NOT good enough and I had to cut 2 stubs off with a grinder. Make sure you have your Subaru LSD oil or some kind of gear oil and an LSD additive before you do all this. Also put the bolts for the ring gear in AFTER you put the LSD chunk into the 3.9 housing, otherwise its a very tight fit, I had to tap it in with a rubber mallet. If you want you could get the rear cover gasket from the dealer, Or just do like me and use RTV silicone

 

-Bill

I forgot to mention the deep E10 socket.

And I never had a problem with the ring gear bolts hanging up with my install.

Some of the 3.9 housings dont even need to be ground, at least mine didnt.

actually , the old school right up, states how to clearance the casing so that you can get the chunk in , already assembled.it makes it alot easier....

 

it is a simple job.about three cans of brake clean later of course.you want to make sure you clean the back end of the case out( you know, where the pinion bearings are)so that all of the shavings and such go away....this will help your bearings in the long run.

 

cheers, brian

it should go well.

but if you have the correct 1/4 drive deep torque socket and it breaks the bolt head off before where it is tapered, then this could take several days..

this "deep" E10 torx socket bit thing - are these typically available locally? i'll stop and check today.

this "deep" E10 torx socket bit thing - are these typically available locally? i'll stop and check today.

 

Chances are it will have to be ordered in, my parts guy couldnt get one for me, so i made one by turning down a normal one and welding it to a 3/8" drive extension. Best bet would prolly be Craftsman, Snap-on, or Matco to get a quality E10 deep socket.

 

-Bill

I used a 12 point 8 mm socket on a 1/4 drive to get my stub bolts out when I did mine. So that is an option instead of trying to track down the E10 socket.. and it takes about 2 hrs total time to do the swap. make sure you have a grinder on hand. Some cases have to be ground down some dont

take and soak the inside of the stubs with your favorite fluid, whether it be PB blaster, or yield.set it up on its side, soak for an hour, flip over, repeat.might help out.wehave cut a lot of stubs off because of the bolt head breaking off as well.

 

so , get a cutting disc for your grinder.when the bolt snaps, just cut as close to the case as you can, pull the rest of the stub out,then take the vise grips to the rest of the bolt.

 

the bolt is never rusted to the carrier.it is always rusted to the stub itself.so , i mean , just look at it.assess the sitiation,and go for it.

cheers, rbain

Gary, follow my write-up and you will be fine.

 

PB or Yield advice is good. DO NOT USE a 5/16 or 8mm socket. Everyone I have seen done this way only works 1/2 the time. Then you get to cut off the stub and bolt head to remove it. The best way to break the stub bolts loose is with an impact driver(the hammer type). This breaks any rust loose and loosens the bolt at the same time.

 

Most tool trucks have the socket on-board. If not, they can have it drop shipped tp your door.

 

The time required depends solely on your abilities and tools. If you don't have the right tools it will take longer. It should only take an hour or so to do though.

okay, i need a visual and will take a look at one first. i don't even know what an E10 deep socket is.

 

i don't have a tool supplier since i'm not a mechanic or business, i just get tools from wherever. i'll look around, seems like i might not be attempting this before i leave wednesday.

An E type socket is the Opposite of a torx driver.... its a female head style faster (which is why it needs a socket instead of a driver)

They look like these.

http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-Female-External/dp/B002GZIZ3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1254698774&sr=1-1-fkmr1

if you go to a sears store, they can pull it up on their order system, order it in to have shipped to your house, you pay while you are in the store. Mine cost like 7.50 and took like 6 days to arrive.

so, as far as rebuilding these units goes, clutches etc. what is required? springs? clutches? and are these parts easily obtainable? i think i have a line on one and would have to convert it to 3.9 which doesnt scare me, i just wanna make sure its in good functioning condition.... any particular way to inspect condition and or test it out of the car?

depends.. VLSD is not serviceable. clutch type LSD I'm sure can be done, but you'd have to find a source for the parts and since they werent produced as an aftermarket unit, goodluck!

if you go to a sears store, they can pull it up on their order system, order it in to have shipped to your house, you pay while you are in the store. Mine cost like 7.50 and took like 6 days to arrive.

thanks, that's exactly what i did.