I'm going to pulling a trans from an RX this weekend from a fella that's parting one out and I want to maximize efficiency.

 

I'll be getting the trans, the drive shaft, and the rear diff.

 

I don't have a manual for this car so I can't look up the procedures for the rear axle removal.

 

What size is the rear axle nut?

 

What's the easiest way to remove the axles?

 

Anything else that will help get this done quickly?

 

Thanks!!

 

Will-

cutting torch:Flame:

OK, not that quickly. I'm pulling this from a car that is being parted not at a JY so I don't want to damage anything unnecessarily.

You won't need to remove any axle nuts - the rear axles are pinned on both ends just like the inner joint on a front axle. So a 3/16" pin punch. If the splines are frozen with rust, just pop the boots off and dissasemble the inner joint on the axle.

 

GD

You won't need to remove any axle nuts - the rear axles are pinned on both ends just like the inner joint on a front axle. So a 3/16" pin punch. If the splines are frozen with rust, just pop the boots off and dissasemble the inner joint on the axle.

 

GD

 

You mean they're pinned on the outer joint as well as in the inner joint? Or do you mean that if I remove the pins from the inner joints I'll be able to remove the axles without touching the outer joints?

 

Will-

I believe he means they are pinned to the diff. So you can remove those pins, and lower the diff and the axles will slide off.

The rear axles are pinned on both ends.

 

If they're stuck (never had to deal with the snow/salt rust issue here), but it can pay to leave the diff attached, unbolt the diff from the cradle and letting it drop.

 

The axle nut size FYI is 36mm (same as front). If you can't find a socket in this size, I have been using a monkey wrench successfully for many years.

Trick is though to remove the wheel, remove the split pin through the nut, then reinstall the wheel & drop the car on the ground so the weight is on the wheel. They're a bugger to hold still otherwise.

You mean they're pinned on the outer joint as well as in the inner joint?

 

Yep - all EA rear's are pinned on both ends.

 

GD

yep - rear axle is pinned on both ends, no need to touch the wheel side. you can drop the diff and get it off without removing the axles.

 

if you do want to remove the axle, just knock the pin out.

 

those rear axles can be seized to the shafts they are attached too.

 

i'd be prepared to disassemble an axle or cut it just in case, those things can be almost perma-welded out here on the east coast. you could have a circlip tool thing to disassemble the outer joint on the vehicle just in case the axle is seized.

 

if this vehicle is being parted out due to rust or has rust - re-read my last paragraph.

 

other than that - RX stuff is exactly the same as EJ trans you pulled. Not much different. Layouts are the same, bolt points are very similar, same axle and driveshaft ideas (all the same reasons why an EA to EJ swap isn't all that difficult).

 

I don't think you're going to have any problems, just be prepared for rust. Like the exhaust too of course, that will likely be horrid unless it's been worked on or removed already.

 

Nice hit will - you're getting a dual range and rear LSD - what's it going into?

Nice hit will - you're getting a dual range and rear LSD - what's it going into?

 

a 2000 forester

 

 

Thanks for the tips everybody.

 

Will-

Crap - I forgot it's an LSD on those - you will need Gen 1 Legacy rear axles to make it work in the Forester.

 

GD

Crap - I forgot it's an LSD on those - you will need Gen 1 Legacy rear axles to make it work in the Forester.

 

GD

 

Meaning the stub axles on the diff a different size, but the hubs are not?

sweet, i knew you wouldn't be in an old gen, so i was thinking that's what you were doing.

 

rear EJ axles are different than EA axles, they aren't pinned on each side for one thing.

 

actually - i forget when/how it changes or is different but a lot of EJ's don't have stubby shafts like the old school EA's and they don't have a stubby shaft on the hub side at all.

 

i'm sure it's been done an talked about, someone here can pipe in with details. i've seen them all but never sat down and tried to put it together and delineate all the details.

Naw, I won't get into an old gen while living out here, too much rust on everything, and what isn't rusty is out of my price range.

 

Yeah, the axle thing has me a bit stumped, but I'll have a better idea when I take everything apart and look at my options. Maybe a hybrid axle of some sort?

In '95 they switched from the axles being pinned to the diff to being c-cliped on the inside of the diff. Instead of a splined female end on the inner axle joint, it's a splined male end that slips inside the diff and clips into grooves cut in the spider gears.

 

So when you go to put the LSD rear into the Forester you can't just swap the spider gears from the Forester's old diff because they won't fit the LSD guts of the RX diff. You will have to source a set of '90 to '94 Legacy rear axles (oddly enough I think front's would work too) - these will just bolt in place and interface with the RX's diff. You will still need the input flange and the rear cover from the Forester's original diff.

 

It will all bolt together and in fact changing the axles is easier than changing the spider gears but turns the car into a bit of an abortion - you will have three generation's of car parts under the Forester. Not that this makes much difference considering what your plans are for it

 

GD

Another option is to use the EJ inner CV, the L shaft & an L inner CV as the outer.

From my understanding the L series shaft spline is the same as the EJ so it should fit into the inner CV

One of the cars I bought already had this done for the inners, but I didn't check it because I changed to a S1 Legacy turbo LSD because the car used to pop a shaft out under real heavy acceleration. It was only later that I figured out the rear suspension was too soft so it squatted too much, plus he'd used the L series fixed outer CVs, so the shafts were just too short.

By using an L series inner CV as the outer, it gives you the extra length needed because the later EJ inner CVs sit closer to the diff.

 

Personally, I prefer the earlier style, because when you need to remove the shaft, the diff doesn't need to be emptied.

Edited December 11, 200916 yr by wagonist

What is an "L shaft" Do you mean Legacy (Liberty)?

Sorry, I'll fix that up.

by "L" I meant "L" series, which is what we call that body shape from 84 - 94.

ah, thanks for the clarification. Looks like the way to go is to get a couple of axles from a '90- '94 legacy.

 

Thanks for the tips everyone!

 

Will-

Thanks for the tips everybody, it went swimmingly considering how rusty that car was! Not one bolt stripped or broke, didn't have to take apart a single axle....weird.

 

anyway, thanks for the help!

 

Will-

Question - Is the Forester and Legacy rear diff a 3.7 like the RX / GL-10 turbo's?

Question - Is the Forester and Legacy rear diff a 3.7 like the RX / GL-10 turbo's?

There aren't any 3.7 final driver in EJ stuff. it's 3.9, 4.11, and 4.44. (ignoring the goofy SVX 3.54 set up).

The Aus turbo models also got the 3.545 rear diff with the 1:1.1 centre transfer, but I don't think the US got any turbo models between the "turbo" first Gen Legacy & the 01 bugeyed WRX.