Hello, does anyone have pictures of a TD04 turbo on their EA82?

 

I just got a new turbo because the old one was bad.

Edited January 3, 201016 yr by AWD TURBO!
gd

Hello, does anyone have pictures of a TD04 turbo on their EA82?

 

I just got a new turbo because the old one was bad.

 

English..... do you speak it?

 

GD

not well sorry

Sorry i don't have pics, but there are documented examples and posts from people who have.

 

search for posts by calebz and WJMgl10 pertaining to this, and alsp copper head gaskets.

 

I personally had the chance to work onchanging out a long block on an 87 XT tubo with a twe up pipe and vf39 turbo from a legacy. this also had the ford thunderbird intercooler setup.

 

this also had the spider intake, which should allow you to go with a wrx intercooler setup.

 

i am just passing along what i have read on the forums

the real question is how far are you going to go before realizing that you could have spent less on an ej20 turbo engine swap.

the real question is how far are you going to go before realizing that you could have spent less on an ej20 turbo engine swap.

 

you can blow up several rebuilt or junkyard ea82t short blocks before you pay for a jdm ej swap. ask me how i know.......

 

as for the td04 pictures i have none but i have the td04. you have to swap the metal cooling lines from your original turbo. i dont know if you have to but i did. i dont remember if i changed the oil drain......probably. you have to slot the rear bolt hole to bolt it on the manifold. then you have to change the downpipe or something because the ihi is 4 bolts and the td04 is has 5. lol i just bolted up my 4 bolt homemade bellmouth downpipe with 2 nuts......needless to say it did not match and there is a big hole on one side. i dont care cause my downpipe goes down and turns back and stops under the crossmember. wrx downpipe does not line up right. it hits the driveshaft before the flange is flush with the turbo. thats how the aftermarket downpipe i have did not fit. you could always cut and weld. for the cold side i just got creative with junkyard air intake tubing from other cars and radiator hose. oh yeah i also clock the housing. unbolt the wastegate actuator and take off the giant snapring that holds the compressor housing on. i just rotated it up until the wastegate actuator would line up with just one bolt. it still works fine.

I did something similar to my stock turbo when i rotated the compressor housing to match the inlet of of the thunderchicken intercooler. I marked the position of the actuator in its original position, then drilled a new hole to make it line up. I have not driven the car much since then but now it boosts around 12psi. I am thinking that I rotated it a little too much/not enough and it is either binding and preventing some movement or if its just compressing the spring a little more. Did you notice any difference in max boost pressure pressure when you did that? Here is a picture of where I drilled the new hole.

Edited January 4, 201016 yr by 87.5ea82txt
For some reason the pic won't show.

not well sorry

 

I see you've met our english tutor and resident _ _ _!

 

Do a search for Turbone and ask him. He has done it.

Edited January 4, 201016 yr by Qman

I see you've met a english tutor and resident _ _ _!

 

Do a search for Turbone and ask him. He has done it.

 

Yes, I have.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88249

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82760&highlight=td04

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72569&highlight=td04

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67724&highlight=td04

 

See how easy that was?

Did you notice any difference in max boost pressure pressure when you did that?

 

I dont know if it changed. I never tried it before. i put my boost controller on right away. I mounted the wastegate with one bolt and rotated the housing until i thought the rod was lined up right. ill have to get a picture

Edited January 4, 201016 yr by Forkspear

the real question is how far are you going to go before realizing that you could have spent less on an ej20 turbo engine swap.

 

i have less then 2500 over the last 3 years 2 wagons 4 moters 1 transmission & lots of 13 inch tyres. I think I'm doing OK because i can afford 3 to 400 every three to four mounts & have fun

 

but i would love to do a EJ20 turbo engine swap

Edited January 4, 201016 yr by AWD TURBO!

well i fished my TD04 install set at 12 psi

 

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Edited January 8, 201016 yr by AWD TURBO!

Totally sweet! I like the in-shop engineering. i see welds on the up-pipe, what did you do?

 

I noticed your ac alternator bracket with no pump. I had that setup not having a proper non-ac mount.

 

good work

ran out of argon used (NOS) :Flame:ran out of .035 wire so had to use the flux core wire it looks like bird turd so flux core with (nos)

 

 

going to make a another up pipe but this will work for now

Good job! Looks like it'll get it done. You should add more fuel though before boosting that much. At least monitor the nb O2 sensor and make sure it never goes lean under boost.

 

You can crush the stock FPR to add more fuel if done carefully. I've been running 15 PSI w/ TD04 for a while now and it hasn't blown up.

nice install. much cleaner than mine. i ditched the pcv system and left the hoses there

 

So is the clear line coming off the T on your mbc for a boost gauge? Wouldn't it be more accurate to plumb it after the throttle plate so you know the boost/vacuum pressure in the manifold? Or is there no place to tap into on your manifold and this is the next best place? I feel the boost would be higher before the throttle and not give you a true indication of actual boost pressure.

yes its the boost gauge i just wanted to know what psi was off the turbo was

What kind of mbc are you using? does the pressure off the compressor lift the ball off the seat and bleed pressure through to the wastegate actuator? Does the gauge fluctuate when that happens? Im interested in how different the boost gauge reacts in that spot compared to after the throttle and how much of a pressure drop there is. I would Imagine that having it in the spot you do would have a faster response on the gauge but would show a higher pressure than would after the throttle but that's not necessarily a bad thing if tuning in your mbc, unless you have a bleeder hole in the side of mbc to the atmosphere, then it may not be entirely accurate.

with me having the boost gauge connected I'm doing 14 psi max & 12 on the dot no fluctuating. going to put it back on the intake i will have vac