January 28, 201016 yr So I sort of coppied another members idea of using a bunk bed frame for the base. Then I used galvo tube for the bent parts. I wanted to be able to mount 3 of the 2.5 gallon jerry cans, spare tire (when I get one) and lights front and back. Also I wanted it to be strong enough to carry a canoe. It is my first welding project and boy does it show. Over all I have about $7.00 into it including the spray paint. I will probably weld in a couple of pieces in the front and rear to strengthen the top bars. Other than that Im pleased with it. I got a lot of ideas from the members cars here. Here are the parts And here is the rack..
January 28, 201016 yr Nice. Looks alot better than mine. Though all mine does is hold the CB antenna mount and the spare tire. So I only wanted it small and low profile. Lights for the sides will come later.
January 28, 201016 yr Nice work...I like the design. It would be nice if your spare could squeeze under the back rail, as hefting a wheel around at that height can be tough. ~E
January 28, 201016 yr Good job using stuff you had readily available to make something custom. Now go drink some milk before welding that Galvanized kills you. :-\
January 28, 201016 yr Author Good job using stuff you had readily available to make something custom. Now go drink some milk before welding that Galvanized kills you. :-\ I made a good effort to grind off most of the galvo. I heard that is is hard on you. Nice work...I like the design. It would be nice if your spare could squeeze under the back rail, as hefting a wheel around at that height can be tough. ~E I will be putting lights in the front and rear areas. So no tire there. However based on a previous post I made regarding the heft of a spare wheel and tire, I decided to put the bar in the middle a lot lower than originally planned. That space is about 31 inches. Wide enough to put any tire, that I would run, up on top. All else fails I will have my 6 year old do it. He is like the Incredible Hulk. Mike
January 29, 201016 yr I made a good effort to grind off most of the galvo. I heard that is is hard on you. Mike There are both hot dip, and cold dip Galvanized. Most conduit is going to be cold dip. That means the steel is actually cooled when they treat it with galvanization. Hot dip is still somewhat molten, thusly the galvanization is pretty much engrained in the steel. As you can imagine, cold dip is alot better to work with than hot dip. Just grind the outside layer off and you're set. Hot dip isn't as forgiving. It may be an old welders tale, but, I know from first hand experience that drinking milk after welding galvanized will definitely make your throat less irritated. It can't hurt.
January 30, 201016 yr You should put some cross bars on the front and back down low to keep short stuff from sliding out and to hold light tabs
January 30, 201016 yr Author You should put some cross bars on the front and back down low to keep short stuff from sliding out and to hold light tabs That is the plan. I ran out of time, for the day, with the father in laws welder. Then I ran out of patience:rolleyes: and painted it THEN I got ambitious and installed the damn thing:lol:. So now I have to removed it, sand the weld point clean and then install the rest of the tube. Sometimes my three year old has more patience than I do. Thanks Mike
August 14, 201213 yr That is the plan. I ran out of time, for the day, with the father in laws welder. Then I ran out of patience:rolleyes: and painted it THEN I got ambitious and installed the damn thing:lol:. So now I have to removed it, sand the weld point clean and then install the rest of the tube. Sometimes my three year old has more patience than I do. Thanks Mike I had the same problem with my bumpers now I don't want to take them off to finish them
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