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$900 for clutch and labor?!


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Wow, I really sisn't mean to stir up such feelings. I will concede the point and hope that you all can forgive me for starting this. I'm sorry.

 

No hard feelings - none at all. I can see how anyone that's not in the mechanic type of industries could feel the way you do. But if you take a subjective look at the industry - it's much more marketing driven than health-care is. It's all about who has the best price and treats the customer the best. Much like selling matresses..... can you really point out a matress store that *isn't* haveing a sale or going out of business :confused:. It's all about the marketing and if you don't offer the services at the prices you claim..... you won't be in business for long. It sucks that some folks have to get the short end of that with prices that don't reflect what their personal situation called for - but you *do* have the option of doing it yourself and here I am on the internet helping all those people that choose to do so - with profesional advice on the subject.

 

I try my very best to charge a reasonable amount. Sometimes I charge for fewer hours than I actually have into a job because in order to do it right I spent more time than a book would call for. I don't like the surprise folks with gigantic bills - I want everyone to feel good about what was done and why and how much they have to pay.

 

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Wow, I really sisn't mean to stir up such feelings. I will concede the point and hope that you all can forgive me for starting this. I'm sorry.

 

Not at all on my part. I just hope you can find a new understanding of our position...I don't anticipate return customers for a problem I should have already resolved...

and as much as I like what I do, still kinda hard starving just for fun :)

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Now I only use my best friend and he was my mechanic first. LOL

 

Those folks that have a mechanic as their best friend are very lucky indeed. My best friend (who is currently in Iraq :mad:) is one lucky SOB I can tell you that :lol:. Not only do I fix all his cars, but also his computers, plumbing, electrical..... and just about anything else that breaks.... usually for free or for a couple beers. No complaints though - not a single hour of it has ever been work :).

 

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I know what you mean. He would give me the shirt off his back and I would do the same. A lot of give and take in a true friendship and I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

I pray that your buddy comes home safe and sound and tell him I said THANK YOU for his service to our country.

 

 

 

Those folks that have a mechanic as their best friend are very lucky indeed. My best friend (who is currently in Iraq :mad:) is one lucky SOB I can tell you that :lol:. Not only do I fix all his cars, but also his computers, plumbing, electrical..... and just about anything else that breaks.... usually for free or for a couple beers. No complaints though - not a single hour of it has ever been work :).

 

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NO one has mentioned the fact that this mechanic did a very complete clutch job, this means if your a good clutch driver you should not have a single clutch problem for 100k, hopefully the engine/tranny is up to the task, what am I saying this is a SUBARU of course it'll be fine. Drive on!........G

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Automotive hourly rates are rediculous, period!!! I have no problem payoing the hourly rate, but when you combine that with "book" hours for the job it becomes highway robbery. I know that a good mechanic can do a job in far less time than the book states and yet they still charge the same for the job, Why not just charge for the hours you work on the car. I know mechanics that can do 16 hours worth of "book" hours in an eight hour day. Tell me that is fair.

 

By the way, do you live in Ashland Va? If you do, get in touch with me and I can help you with repairs and you can learn something about your car.

 

Work the other side of the wrench and you will not think its rediculous. I worked at a Subaru dealer for 2 years. Some of the jobs are right on the book but not all of them. On top of that every warranty ticket screws you because SOA doesnt want to pay reasonable amounts for labor which is even more rediculous.

On top of that there is a learning curve for every job. You won't master a job to a point of doing one in half the book time for quite a while. Its like R&D at a company and it cost the tech money. ON top of that buy a box of snap on or similar tools that is as tall as you on a credit account. Pay interest, tax, and best of all buy a few spares of stuff that breaks even though its snap on. Its a tough gig to make money at. The dealer will likely pay the tech 1/5 of the amount they are charging at the most. The crook is the dealer itself not the techs.

 

The job is hard on your body, the cars are often rusty, the equipment in the shop is often not maintaned properly, the guys at the service desk are not always competitent, and best of all the customers are mostly idiots. Spend a lot of time running around doing price quotes, waiting at the parts counter, and being tired and sore. I loved it but the dealership was a real joke and I am starting something on my own now.

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Hey everybody. I got the car back and its shifting smoothly. It cost $800. they put in some new gasket seals, replaced the pivot ball for the clutch, the clutch, and a clutch cable. I'm happy I have a working subie. A little expensive but they did a good job and I'm happy.

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Hey everybody. I got the car back and its shifting smoothly. It cost $800. they put in some new gasket seals, replaced the pivot ball for the clutch, the clutch, and a clutch cable. I'm happy I have a working subie. A little expensive but they did a good job and I'm happy.

 

Break that $800 down into how many years it should last if the car is treated well. Less than $100 a year for good drivability and peace of mind.

 

Initial sticker shock hurts but you have to think about how much it actually costs over the long haul.

 

I had about 123K miles on my 1st clutch (original) and only replaced it because some other major overhauling was being done (which was not even critical but I had plenty of money to make the car like new at the time) and it seemed like a good opportunity to throw a new clutch in there. There was nothing wrong with the old clutch but age was going to catch up with it.

 

I had over 80K miles on my original set of brakes before they had to be replaced.

 

Shift nice, don't ride the clutch or the brakes and they will last you for that many miles.

 

I don't baby my car either. But neither do I abuse it. People who ride their brakes need to be removed from the gene pool. LOL

Edited by Subarule
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I recently did a clutch for an older gentleman in a '90 Legacy. 250k on the original (he bought the car new in '90). Driven by someone that knows how to drive a clutch they can last a LONG time. He also own an Audi S4 and several show quality vintage american cars so he's not just driving like grandpa - retired Air Force - in his 70's now.

 

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Automotive hourly rates are rediculous, period!!! I have no problem payoing the hourly rate, but when you combine that with "book" hours for the job it becomes highway robbery. I know that a good mechanic can do a job in far less time than the book states and yet they still charge the same for the job, Why not just charge for the hours you work on the car. I know mechanics that can do 16 hours worth of "book" hours in an eight hour day. Tell me that is fair.

 

By the way, do you live in Ashland Va? If you do, get in touch with me and I can help you with repairs and you can learn something about your car.

 

It is absolutely fair. Why should you not pay for the mechanics experience and knowledge? It took years for that mechanic to get good at his trade. He didn't just know how to do a particular job. He had to learn how to do it fast. He had to buy special tools to do this job that fast.

 

Flat rate shops also have warranty work which is a non paying job. Even if the part fails and all the labor was correct it still is done for free.

 

If you want it done correctly you will pay for it or do it a few times yourself.

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It is absolutely fair. Why should you not pay for the mechanics experience and knowledge? It took years for that mechanic to get good at his trade. He didn't just know how to do a particular job. He had to learn how to do it fast. He had to buy special tools to do this job that fast.

 

Flat rate shops also have warranty work which is a non paying job. Even if the part fails and all the labor was correct it still is done for free.

 

If you want it done correctly you will pay for it or do it a few times yourself.

 

The same could be said for parts store salespersons. I know its not in the same league, but it seems there are an awful lot of people on here who complain about parts stores not getting the part right. I've worked at a couple of different stores for several years and think this is how it goes.

 

1. There are a multitude of different cars that have parts listed. At my old store we had over 7,500 different vehicles listed, and that was just the popular ones in the computer. It's incredibly easy for a new person to make a mistake, and seeing as you don't need any qualifications to work at one, people can basically walk in off the street with no knowledge. It's as annoying to an experienced salesman as it is to a customer, but that's the way it goes. Don't expect them to know everything about your exact model of car, its unrealistic and stupid.

 

2. It takes a long time to start to know about these cars, and the subtle variations and differences in the years, etc. They don't have the car in front of them, they've never and most likely will never work on about 95% of these cars, and a lot is going off learning as you go. Everyone makes mistakes, hell, I'd be doing well if I went two weeks without messing up an order or getting the wrong part, for mechanics and Joe Average. But every mistake you make is something else you learn.

 

3. Know what info they need off your car, write it down, and bring it in. It take 30 seconds to pop the hood and find out what the chassis code is, what engine, and what year. Etc etc etc. Over here we go off chassis code, engine code, year, make and model. So I'd bring mine in saying "I have a 1989 Subaru Omega, chassis code AN5, EA82 engine." Not, "Give me a front left axle for a EA81, they're all the same." You sound like a muppet. Even if you are right. Which brings me to my next point...

 

4.. Parts salesmen are people. If you're going to walk into a store thinking you're awesome because you know about such and such a car, or act like you're the most intelligent person in the room and annoy the guy you're dealing with, chances are you're gonna get the wrong part. No-one cares if your Honda has 300hp or you've got an aftermarket ECU, if you're a douche you're gonna get the wrong part, most of the time just to fuck you off. Its not right, its unethical, its not good for business... but the bottom line is that's what happens. It's just good to be nice, not arrogant, and definitely not condescending. They're car enthusiasts too, and if you're good to them, they'll be good to you. If not....I hope you like your car sitting on jack stands waiting for parts.

 

And thats pretty much it. Sorry about the rant, I've been wanting to say that for a while. Hopefully that'll be common sense for a lot of you, and make you get the right parts first time a bit more, and make everyone happier. :)

Edited by rxleone
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I don't get real bothered by the parts store counter clerk mistakes - typically I either have the old part with me or can recognize it on sight anyway.

 

What bother's me - and this has happened at least twice in the last year for me - is when I buy (or in both these cases my customer has bought) a clutch set that contains entirely the wrong parts - and not just wrong for the vehicle - so wrong that there isn't even a vehicle that they *could* fit. I got one for a Legacy that had all the right parts except the pressure plate - don't know what it was for but not the Legacy's flat flywheel. And the other one was supposed to be for an '89 GL 5 speed 4WD - but the kit we got had all the parts for a 4 speed and the pressure plate for a 5 speed. The T/O bearing included in the kit didn't even match up to the pressure plate fingers. WTF?

 

The parts store I frequent most - Discount Import Parts - must pay their employees pretty well. I have met the owner on several occasions and he's a nice fellow. Their turn-over is pretty much non-existent and I've dealt with the same counter people for at least the last 4 or 5 years - maybe longer. They know me and I know them - just like at my local dealer. Because of the relationship I get good service and prices. I respect my parts guys and try to treat them right - I've been rewarded in return.

 

Don't get mad at your parts clerk - it won't solve anything.

 

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i suggest that anything in southern oregon thats a subaru and needed to be worked on. take it to dhm subaru in medford. dave is the best one out there.

:banana:

 

Any contact info on DHM subaru in medford? i googled it and didn't come up with anything. I'll check him out if i can get a hold of him. Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

No offense to any contrary advice on the thread, but I would look around for a mechanic/shop that specializes in clutch work to get you closer to a $500 - $600 range (or less, which I know is possible). Personally, I've never paid $900 (5 different clutch replacements on 7 different subi's) but I've never had a bad job show itself later when less than $600. Just got back my 91 legacy from Clutch Doctor - $520 included a new oem clutch fork from subaru.

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No offense to any contrary advice on the thread, but I would look around for a mechanic/shop that specializes in clutch work to get you closer to a $500 - $600 range (or less, which I know is possible). Personally, I've never paid $900 (5 different clutch replacements on 7 different subi's) but I've never had a bad job show itself later when less than $600. Just got back my 91 legacy from Clutch Doctor - $520 included a new oem clutch fork from subaru.

 

Sorry, I'm a bit hungover, but what? :D

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