I am also wondering if I am "Losing" power with not having a muffler on this, to little back pressure maybe? This is a fully stock exhaust with an UEL and no muffler, but instead a 12" 2.5 pipe in its place.

 

As I understand it (and figured out with trials), you get the scavenging with the "Y" pipe snd the backpressure with the cats, then open it up and you'll be fine. BUT really, all you get is better notes and no real gains with a wider free-er exhaust on a NA EJ22 engine....

 

I'm running stock "Y" pipe and cats, then opened up to 2.25" exhaust through a 12" cherry bomb then a magnaflow (which is pretty much an open muffler). The wider pipe and cherry bomb in place of the factory resonator) give it a deeper note and the magnaflow quiets it a bit at idle, but lets you hear the deeper note on revving...

 

BUT it's NOT tinny at all. that's a honda and dynaflow characteristic.

 

I think I have a youtube or picasa video somewhere, but they still don't represent the deeper note very well. . . . .

don't hold your breath for it though, I'm not sure I can find it quickly.

Oh yeah, I remember talk about the Back pressure being caused by the cats. Thanks for the refresher!

 

I'm very happy with the note of it right now, it almost has a V8 characterisic to it and its very growly when you stand on it, Its also very very quiet at idle, nice deep slow growl. But then again, my car idles at like 400rpm in park lol WTF?

 

Maybe I won't be a muffler, maybe I'll just get the duel resonated pipe, and then do 2.25 from that fange to about where the heat shield is, then bump it up to 2.5 for the tail pipe.

 

Ah, having an idea so close to winter, great! lol....

How would I know if one of my Cats are getting or is plugged?

 

I have the strangest smelling exhaust, it burns your eyes and nose after a while, but it doesn't smell like fuel. Smells very corrosive (The best I can describe it)

 

Can a plugged cat change the exhaust properties/smell?

 

I also still have the P0420 (Cat efficiency bank 1) I have done the 02 Spacer on the rear sensor, and still get the code after time. So this is what makes me wonder if the cat is sh*t.

What would cause low rough idle right at cold start up? Doesn't rev up like it should, dirty old IAC? Runs fine after a few min of idling.

 

Lower milage clean MAF, new vac lines everywhere, new sensors all around the engine, complete turn up etc. Ran Seafoam through the booster (Now will drive over 70mph without breathing hard)

Edited October 25, 201114 yr by TheLoyale

My cars with bad cats smelled like rotten eggs. That what you got?

My cars with bad cats smelled like rotten eggs. That what you got?

 

No, mine smells like corrosive Varnish (As if there is such a thing)

corrosive Varnish (As if there is such a thing)

 

lol weird.

 

no smoke or anything just smell eh? hmm. could be clogged up i guess, i dont know how youd unclog the cat tho. sounds like it would be a ***************.

 

regarding idle..

think the front o2 sensor could be bad, and its throwing stuff off?

maybe some of this info will be of some help see if the 02 sensor is culprit, although i dont know if it'll work with out a obd-usb scanner

 

you will have to drive it and look at the live readings on the sensors to see what is out of wack. I have seen a bad air/fuel sensor do things like that. or a vacuum leak. You will need to look at fuel trim data and see if the front and rear sensors are agreeing. like for example the fuel trim data shows -20% and the rear O2 is stuck at like .1 volts. that would be a dead give away that the front air/fuel sensor is bad. the reason I say that is that the rear 02 sensor shows .1 or so= lean / .8 or so = rich. If the fuel trim is at -20% that means that the front air/fuel sensor is reading rich so it is adjusting the fuel mixture lean -20%. If the rear o2 is reading .1 that means that the sensor is telling the ecu the wrong thing and actually causing it to run lean. which will make it run like crap. no power. surging. multiple misfiring etc. very common.

now if the fuel trim shows something like -20% and the rear o2 is reading rich like .9 volts at the same time. that means something else is wrong. like bad fuel pressure regulator etc. something that would cause it to run rich. ha ha

If fuel trim is +20 at idle and tapers off to almost 0 under load and accel. that is usually caused by a vacuum leak.

Not saying any of this is YOUR problem. just sending out random info ha ha

the rear 02 sensor will not effect how it runs just turn on the check engine light. the front o2 sensor is the air/fuel sensor. the reason I was talking about the rear sensor is because I use it to diagnose the front one. It is rare for both sensors to be bad. the rear one hardly ever goes out. and the readings are very easy to see. rich or lean. .1volts is lean .9 is rich. it is supposed to switch between rich and lean constantly if it is switching it is good usually. you can induce a vacuum leak and watch the rear sensor to see if it sticks too .1 you can add fuel ie-propane into intake to see if it sticks to rich .9 . . Like I said before I use the rear sensor to verify the front. since the front sensor controls the air/fuel mixture pretty much directly. if the fuel trim is less than 10% either way + or - that is considered normal. but if it is more than 10% there is something wrong that is fuel related.

usually it is the front 02 sensor. you can varify that by looking at the fuel trim data and the rear o2 sensor voltage at the same time. Like if the fuel trim is at -20% that means the front 02 is measuring rich and telling the pcm to adjust the fuel ratio lean. now when that is happening the rear o2 should be showing .9 if it really is running rich. If it is stuck at .1 volts. that is lean. So obviously the front o2 should not be telling the pcm to subtract fuel if it is actually running lean so the front o2 would be bad. and actually causing the lean condition.

now say the fuel trim is at like -20% and the rear o2 is stuck at like .9 then the front and rear o2 sensors are agreeing and are both probably good. You would then have a rich condition. which could be caused by anything that would make it run rich. like map sensor, leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm etc.

of course none of this will help you unless you have the rear o2 installed lol

in that case by default If I had more than 10% fuel trim either way. I would just replace the front o2. you can get them cheap at napa/oreilly/carquest etc. They are very common to go bad on those and will make it run like complete crap when they do.

Edited October 25, 201114 yr by xbeerd

Just replace it with one of lower mileage.

Good to know about the scanner, both O2 sensors are new.

Has anybody ever thought about putting Halogen driving lamps in the cargo area of their Legacy? I have! and did.

 

Yes you read right, 55w driving lights for Cargo elimination.

 

Pics to come.

Now this is a cargo light.

 

That's neat, I have wanted to do something similar in the PandaWagon. Do you have any pics of the installation?

That's neat, I have wanted to do something similar in the PandaWagon. Do you have any pics of the installation?

 

I get a pic. Basically, since this is Trashwagon; I just tapped into the 12v from the domelight, then grounded the lights to the body and ran a switch next to the 12v outlet in back. Cut a small hole in the Headliner to conceal the wires.

Back in the day when TW10 was a normal Legacy.

 

god damnit I've been looking for a rear spoiler for my outback for the longest time hardly anything on ebay.. and the dealership is a true ripoff.

god damnit I've been looking for a rear spoiler for my outback for the longest time hardly anything on ebay.. and the dealership is a true ripoff.

 

Yeah they are something else to find. I saw some dude on here took one and hacked it up to fix it on a 1st gen. Turned out really nice too!

 

I want those rain guards on the side of the windows, anyone know where to find them?

Now this is a cargo light.

 

 

 

 

 

Holy Krappola!!! That baby is freakin' bright!!!!! What are you trying to light up back there???

Kinda prefer it dimmer- but that's just me, I guess...

 

 

For any fans of Blues Bros. -wanted to add this in... for the heck of it...

 

 

Yeah they are something else to find. I saw some dude on here took one and hacked it up to fix it on a 1st gen. Turned out really nice too!

 

I want those rain guards on the side of the windows, anyone know where to find them?

 

 

I am wondering if they never made them, as the doors are frameless, and if the door was open, then the window rolled up, it would hit the guards when you close them.

 

IT would be nice if t hey do exist. my 1st gen legacy drips on me if i crack the window open when it's raining.

If you pay close attention to the photo of the Black outback, they do exist and were indeed a factory option. I have seen them on multible Outbacks.

 

They attach side roof molding "Rain gutter if you will" and they clear the windows by a fraction.

god damnit I've been looking for a rear spoiler for my outback for the longest time hardly anything on ebay.. and the dealership is a true ripoff.

 

Out of curiosity, what do the spoilers cost from the dealership?

 

Yeah they are something else to find. I saw some dude on here took one and hacked it up to fix it on a 1st gen. Turned out really nice too!

 

That was 1982gl4, he posted the pictures in my thread about my '94 Legacy GT:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126886&page=6

 

A few pages back in the thread and you can see some other first-gen Legacies with rear spoilers, finished and painted.

 

It's somewhat low on my priorities right now, but I'm keeping an eye out for a rear spoiler for myself. :cool:

I would say the dealer wants like $220 for one (Subarupartsforyou.com) has them for said price.

 

Sound of the EJ22.

 

Tire rotation and chassis inspection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

19mm nutz.

0-60mph - 14sec. (Taking it easy after 2rd gear)

 

Ya know, ever since this car got hit, I think it shifted the steering box a little (Besides making it jump a tooth or two) as my driverside Tie-rod boot rubs on the crossmember (Passenger side clears just fine)

 

I also need to replace the inner rod on the pass. side, starting to get a little play in the ball.

Cleaned out the IAC and PCV system today, replaced the 3/4" hose that runs from the plastic PCV junction to the block. Original hose was hard as plastic and cracked.

 

Now have Polyurethane hose in its place.