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the_bard

EA82 Wagon Rust - Fenders And Behind Rear Wheels

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Been following the thread on the Brat rust, so I ran across SubaruBrat's article on the rust in the rear wheel wells that seems to be so common to Brats (http://www.subarubrat.com/wheelwell.htm).

 

This got me thinking about the rust that seems to be constantly plagueing the EA82 wagons I see... specifically, the front fenders (front bottom, center top, and rear bottom), and just behind the rear wheels. Why's this happen in these usual spots?

 

I figure the area behind the rear wheels is just prone to being hammered by rocks, gravel, and general road debris. Is there more to it than that, though?

 

SubaruBrat mentioned a gap in the rear wheel wells of Brats where water, salt, & debris can enter, to collect and rust out the wells. I figure this is the case behind the front wheels, judging from the crap I pulled out of my front fenders in that location when I was investigating the rust on my '92 Loyale.

 

More to the point, has anybody figured out what to do about preventing the rust that occurs in these areas? There's no sense in me slapping some new sheet metal in that trouble spot behind the rear wheels if I'm not stopping what caused the rust in the first place (like mudflaps that are allowing water & gunk to seep in behind them, then holding it against the metal, quickening the cancer.

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check out http://www.itkillsrust.com

 

then, once you are convinced that it is worth the money (i think you will be) (you dont need much)

 

maybe some herculiner would make a nice covering to prevent premature rock chipping and things of the sort.

 

i used it in this combo and wow, it is good if you ask me.

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Hmm.... might check out this stuff, and see if I can't get some more reviews on it. I've heard really good things about POR-15, but not much about RustBullet.

 

I'll be slapping sheet metal in place behind the rear wheel wells, anyhow, and probably replacing the fenders. This stuff sounds like it'd be good to treat spotty surface rust, where it hasn't eaten much through the metal.

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Noel:

 

On the front fenders on the wagons, I believe moisture, crud etc accumulates in the lower rear area nearest the door. I don't recall an easy access point, so you are probably talking fender removal to clean things out the first time thru. Then you can drill out an access hole and install rubber plug for future cleaning.

 

The rear quarters seem to start corroding at the weld seams near the bottom along the floor pan. It is not easily visisble unless you crawl beneath the car, or remove the access panels from the cargo side. Once it starts, it's tough to slow down, since the moisture collects in that cavity. The seam has to be dry, and dust free if you you are to have a chance. You'll need to treat BOTH sides with rust converter, then spray undercoating over both surfcaes for further protection. Petroleum based is best.

 

Once the seam is rusted away and a hole develops welding in a new panel is the only permanent solution. You could also attempt to control the cancer so it doesn't get completely out of control (an inexpensive, effective option). I would just simply grind down the rust, and treat the metal as best you can. Leaving the hole open may actually help the car "breath" better, and prevent pockets of moisture from forming.

 

If you want a rust free Sube, my advice is to start with the best body you can find (even if it's one that you don't think you can afford).

 

good luck, John

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Those of you what have given Rust Bullet a try, thanks. I'd love to have a report of how it worked for you and your project turned out. If you have images that would be great.

 

On another note, if I can answer any questions about Rust Bullet I'll be happy to try and answer them..

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Yeppers... NY does a number on cars, that's for sure. After I get a wagon in good enough shape to begin with (crossing my fingers on this current project), I'd like to find someplace with a garage (dry concrete floor) where I can get underneath the car every three or four months, to keep up with combating the rust.

 

Contemplating taking the underbody covering off, and POR-15'ing the entire bit, then recovering it with underbody coating. We'll see how that goes.

 

Really wouldn't mind giving Rust Bullet a try on some of the areas that aren't quite bad enough to warrant cutting it out the rust and slapping some sheetmetal in. Might use it to protect the interior of the area behind the rear wheels, though, before I slap that sheetmetal into place.

 

Drilling out an access hole sounds like an intriguing idea, too, especially on the rear areas... what if I slapped a couple 12v DC fans usually designed for cooling computer cases in there, to bring in air from the interior car and blowing it out an access hole? If I cut the rust out, treated the interior areas with Rust Bullet, put the sheet metal in, gave myself an access hole, sprayed the **** out of the interior area with underbody coating or herculiner, then installed the fan to circulate the air? I ought to be able to wire an on/off switch for the fans, too... I'm a big fan of switches (makes the interior feel more like an airplane :D ).

 

On the front fenders, I'd sure like to know where & how that crud is entering, so I'd have a better chance of sealing it off. I haven't taken a real in depth look at it, yet (probably will when I swap out that half shaft Thursday), but I imagine it's probably where the fender meets up with the rest of the body. When I do the swap, would it be worth it to run some silicon caulk up along that joint, then spray underbody coating over that, in an attempt to keep the crud out?

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i'v been dealing with this on my 92 wagon. My basic advise: take the mudflaps off of the car and replace them with a sheet of heavy rubber screwed into the fenderliner. Those mudflaps are badly designed and they actually hold water (and salt) cupped against the corner of the car. watch out in front of the rear wheels, the rust can blow through into the body channel and rust out your rocker panes from the inside. I'm working on a wand to spray rust inhibitor inside the whole channel on both sides.

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More to the point, has anybody figured out what to do about preventing the rust that occurs in these areas? There's no sense in me slapping some new sheet metal in that trouble spot behind the rear wheels if I'm not stopping what caused the rust in the first place (like mudflaps that are allowing water & gunk to seep in behind them, then holding it against the metal, quickening the cancer.

 

Easiest thing to do. Come visit me in texas for a week. We will go to the yard and buy a nice rust fee car with a bad motor/trans for $150 and do a quick swap and send you home with the nicest old school soob in your state :)

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This is why all newer subarus had mudflaps! From what I've seen they made the mistake of only putting them on the 4WD models back then. Most that did have flaps were missing one or more. People tended to not replace them when they broke or fell off for whatever reason. They were import crap boxes; nobody really cared much at the time I'm sure :)

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mudflaps and fender liners trap mud and water around the seams, thats why mudflaps fall off ;) Because the metal behind the mudflap disintegrates. I say unscrew (or just pull them off if the rust is too bad) and pull out your front fender liners, and spray out your inner fenders regularly. This is even more important if you are on salted roads.

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I have been ready alot in the forum about the rust problems you guys in the states are having.Subarus are a very poular car here in New Zealand and there are plenty sitting in wreckers yards over here. Has anyone ever given thought to getting a group together and import a couple of containers full of panels.You might be surprised at what you can get and the cost.

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