Still wrapped up in my EJ22 swap ...

First off, I don't have a vice. I was trying to use a screw driver for leverage to push the tensioner back in and no dice. I then unbolted it and tried putting all my weight on it (200lbs) to get it back in - no dice. I then thought, "OK, its bad - I know my EJ25 had a knew one". So I took IT off and same thing. I thought I heard these things were easier to compress than that. Do I have 2 bad tensioners or are they that stubborn?

This is what the FSM for 95 says.

BELT TENSION ADJUSTER

1) Visually check oil seals for leaks, and rod ends for

abnormal wear or scratches. If necessary, replace belt tension

adjuster.

CAUTION:

Slight traces of oil at rod’s oil seal does not indicate a

problem.

2) While holding tensioner with both hands, push the rod

section against floor or wall ensuring the rod section will

react as follows:

(1) When applying a force of 147 N (15 kg, 33 lb), the

rod section should not sink.

(2) When applying a force of 147 to 490 N (15 to 50 kg,

33 to 110 lb), the rod section should maintain a projectionally

acting force and should not sink within 8.5 seconds.

 

Installation of belt tension adjuster

Insert stopper pin 1.5 mm (0.059 in) diameter into place

while pushing tension adjuster rod into body using a press.

CAUTION:

Do not allow press pressure to exceed 9,807 N (1,000

kg, 2,205 lb).

Do not release press pressure until stopper pin is

completely inserted.

Push tension adjuster rod vertically.

Press-in the push rod gradually taking three minutes

or more.

 

It shouldn't be easy to push in. It doesn't take much force, but it does need is constant force over a period of time. A vice is the easiest way, but you can probably use a large C clamp if you're careful.

A large C-clamp works fine for this.

go to lowes and buy a large c clamp. make sure it is large enough. crank it slowly, 1/8 turn every 10 seconds.

go to lowes and buy a large c clamp. make sure it is large enough. crank it slowly, 1/8 turn every 10 seconds.

 

Just did this today with a c-clamp.

Do not mash that rod in, it needs to go slow and easy like said above.

The hard part is finding a pin strong and small enough to fit in the hole.

I used a small allen wrench.

yep like they said C-clamp is the way to go and just be mindful of not trying to force it to retract fast.

 

*edit

 

For a pin I filed down a small allen wrench which I had a size i knew I'd never use and it held fine for the 4 times I had to keep resetting the tensinor because of incorrect timing.

C-clamp to compress - very slowly and don't abuse it.

 

i use an allen wrench as well to hold it in place. i never file them down,just use one small enough to fit. be mindful that whatever you stick in there will have to be extracted one way when you remove it, don't have it facing the block or something.

ONCE AGAIN!!! you guys rock. Thanks. I had a c-clamp. Never thought to use it. Worked like a charm. Just ned to get hardware for my separator plate, throw the flexplate on and she's ready to go in! THANK YOU!!!

be mindful that whatever you stick in there will have to be extracted one way when you remove it, don't have it facing the block or something.

 

LOL I made that same mistake

I'm a little late on this post, but the C-Clamp works great... Here is a picture of a C-clamp holding the timing belt tensioner.

 

 

and an alley key works, just make sure it is in the right way so you can yank it out once installed

^^Thanks for the pic....I was wondering if this worked on the old and new tensioners.

 

Td