cv boot question

[monk50]

2005 subaru outback 3.0

82500 miles

Just changed oil and noticed one inner cv boot is busted.

 

Searching for wisdom/advice

 

1. Are requilt half/shafts recommended if so from where and best product for the price.

2. I assume that as one boot is gone the rest on front are likely to follow in short order. Therefore replace all on the front?

3. Considering using subaru bucks to get done at the dealership, any experience in prices. Albemarle NC

4. Would you recommend changing the boots or replace the axles?

5. As I have 2 '05 outbacks I am considering keeping one set to rebuild and have ready for future blowouts, any thoughts?

 

Thanks in advance.

Monk in NC

[logic23]

Change the whole halfshaft. One the grease spins out the joint has been damaged and will fail prematurely regardless of a new boot. You only need to do the side with the torn boot. Inspect the other side for signs of cracking. My friends 05 just had his replaced under warranty. Lucky Guy.

[hohieu]

Is it still under warranty? That would be great.

 

The right inner boot tends to go first because it's baked by catalytic converter directly under it. Mine went at around 6 years/92K miles. I was out of town so my wife had it replaced by a trusted mechanic with decent rebuilt unit -- still good after 6 years/65K miles.

 

My front left inner CV boot split open at around 7 years/107K miles, and I replaced the boots on this unit, which still performs just fine after 5 years/50K miles.

 

If you discovered the failed boot early enough (if there's still grease in the joint), then you can rebuild it. But I don't know how much you'll save if you have the dealer perform the service.

 

OEM halfshafts are made by NTN Bearing Company, and new ones cost something like $300-$400 . It's better to go with a high quality rebuild than with some of the cheap aftermarket components on the market. Others on this site rave about MWE rebuilt halfshafts.

 

Yet another option is to replace the boots on the one in your car. Then buy a couple of used OEM units, maybe on ebay or from a yard, and reboot them as needed.

[GeneralDisorder]

Subaru axles are very easy to R&R. Being it's an inner, probably a recent failure, and not making any noises - I would reccomend that you pull the axle out, replace both boots+grease and get another 100k from that axle.

 

If you are industrious - pull both axles, replace all the boots, and swap them left to right. This will reverse their primary rotation and spread out the wear on the joint components a bit thus extending their life.

 

Where I buy my boots they are $12 each. So $48 and a couple hours to do the job.

 

I wouldn't pay a shop unless you have no choice - the job is really too easy and it's just a waste of money to pay for it since Subaru's eat axles and boots so regularly.

 

GD

[idosubaru]

do not replace the axle. current axle is perfectly fine and will last the life of the vehicle. reboot it. Subaru axles are much better quality than aftermarkets, throwing away a Subaru axle is a bad move.

 

i'll leave my stories out but there's plenty on here from me and others about bad aftermarket axles.

 

the outer boots on these newer ones like you have, have more convolutions and last a lot better than the older style and like mentioned earlier that one is closest to the exhaust so replacing just one is an option.

 

i believe you can even replace that inner boot without removing the axle from the hub. not sure if that's wise or not but i think i saw it done that way in a shop before.

 

i'd expect Subaru to charge your $150-$200.

[GeneralDisorder]

i believe you can even replace that inner boot without removing the axle from the hub. not sure if that's wise or not but i think i saw it done that way in a shop before.

 

Yes - it's possible but it's messy and awkward unless you have a lift (even then I wouldn't) and the chances of contaminating the new grease from debris in/around the "work area" is high. Removal is better and also allows a cleaning/antiseizing of the axle/hub splines and general inspection of brakes, etc.

 

If I'm doing it - I'm taking out both axles, rebooting them, doing brake repairs as needed, and swapping the axles left/right.

 

GD

[idosubaru]

Yes - it's possible

have you done it GD? can you just remove the one top strut bolt and rotate it out to get the axle off the trans? i'd like to know just in case i'm ever in a pinch, but i haven't tried it yet.

 

or you lucky west coast non-rust jokers have the luxury of actually being able to remove ball joints? :lol:

[hohieu]

Definitely possible to replace both inner and outer boots without removing the axle nut, though would have to agree with GD. It's not worth the hassle, and I wouldn't do it again without access to a lift.

 

The Factory Service Manual actually recommends this method. They also recommend removing the stabilizer link and transverse link bolts in order to pull the inner joint off the stub shaft. In this case, I find these instructions to work the best because you're able to avoid removing the ball joint and the strut adjustment bolts.

 

do not replace the axle. current axle is perfectly fine and will last the life of the vehicle. reboot it. Subaru axles are much better quality than aftermarkets, throwing away a Subaru axle is a bad move.

 

I really couldn't agree with you more. NTN makes excellent components, and that's why new ones cost as much as they do.

Edited July 11, 2010 by hohieu
typos

[Mike104]

I'd agree with just rebooting the axle. I paid to have mine done at the dealer (no time, no tools, no area to work and too old and out of shape to do it myself) and it was $335 for both. Dealer charge for boots was $11 each (x 2) + $23 for grease so mostly labor (they billed 3hrs total). If you have the time/tools I would do it yourself. I'm sure they used the remove from hub process and it actually took less than 3 hrs but that's how flat rate works. I'm sure it would have taken me at least a whole day and maybe a weekend to do it, so I am happy having paid someone to do it.

[GeneralDisorder]

I did it once on an EA series. I never use the strut method - I typically take the lower control arm loose at the engine cross-member and disconnect the sway bar link.

 

On EJ's I usually pop the ball joint out of the knuckle and that by itself is enough to get the axle off the trans.

 

GD

[monk50]

Thanks for all the replys. I will check, come Monday, to see if still under warranty, if not price at Subaru, then decide. Joint is not making noise at this point so I will probably just reboot.

 

Will keep posted.

 

Monk

[logic23]

I use the "remove strut bolt" procedure. Mark the bolt to the strut as to not get the camber adjustment off.

Around here you can get used Cv joints from the Junkyard for $30-40.

This is the way to go. Rebooting is a MESS. If the c.v. joint isn't rusted into the hub you can do the job in 20-30 min. (this is with an impact gun)

Also there is a special kind of punch called a roll pin punch. it has a nipple on the end so that you don't damage the roll pin. Well worth it.

Also when you reinstall them they only go on the hub one way if they are 180 out the roll pin won't go thru.

[monk50]

Took it to the dealer in Fayetteville, NC. They said could not get remanufactured axle so they installed a new one. Had them save the removed axle and plan to reboot it and put on the other side. Thanks for the imput.

 

Monk50