I found a 91 automatic awd legacy wagon for $120.it was so cheap because of a blown HG.I bought it as a donor car for an EJ swap,However, a friend offered me way more than I paid for it if I was to fix it and sell it to him.So I get the parts.Then set out to pull the motor last night around 11:45 PM(my neighbors love me).It was all going great until I get to actually pulling the engine.I got the engine about 3" from the transmission then I start hearing a gurgling sound.look at the back of the engine...son of a !!!!!! the torque converter is leaking its contents all over my driveway.So I frantically tried to find a suitable container.found a pop can just in time to catch the last few drops.Finished pulling the engine then I spread cat litter over the ATF.I will shop vac it up later today(after I wake up).Then pressure wash the engine and drive way,(AND my jack,AND the engine bay...YAAAA!!!

 

Automatic transmissions are the devil,why else would there fluid be red?

 

Anyway when it comes time to stuff the engine back in there what is the best way to connect the engine-TC-transmission combo?First time pulling an automatic engine...

 

Also how much ATF does the transmission take?As well as the heat exchanger in the radiator and the TC.does it take regular ATF or is it special?

Edited August 8, 201015 yr by Uberoo

Hi sorry to hear about that. Yes that can make quite the mess! A full fill on those automatics is around 9.8 quarts I believe. So a case of 12 qts should do it. They just use Dexron II/III type ATF, which you won't specifically find anymore since it isn't licensed by GM, but there are alternatives out there. I personally wouldn't use Dexron VI but some people do. Also I'd make sure it has that Subaru ATF filter mod installed and also I'd use a flush kit on the in tank cooler in case there are shreddings partially blocking it at all.

 

I was doing front diff gear oil yesterday and I had put foil over the exhaust below the drain plug to make sure to get none on it so I woudln't have to smell that for a few days while it burns off. So all was going well. Then I was using a hand pump to pump the new gear oil in. And wouldn't you know it, the dang hose popped out of the filler hole and I was pumping the gear oil all over the front cat. Great.

There are many posts on seating the TC in the transmission - it's kind of a PITA, and it'll mess up the tranny's pump if not seated correctly.

 

You also may want to replace a couple of the seals on the shaft connected to the TC.

 

I hold the TC in place w/Zip-ties, 'til the engine is in, otherwise if the TC gets bumped and comes loose you'll be starting over - remove the Zips before tightening the bolts.

 

When refilling the trans, do a little @ time, since it's easy to overfill. Car should be running, go thru the gears, and then check the fluid - Repeat. I've read on here there's only a PINT (not Qt) difference between Low and Full on the dipstick.

 

GL,

Td

The auto's are actually more reliable than the 5 speed's.

 

Next time leave the TC on the trans and just pull the 4 bolts that hold the flex-plate to the TC. There is an access port for it behind the manifold.

 

GD

automatic transmissions are the devil,why else would there fluid be red?

 

lol hahahahahaa

12 mm, 1/4" drive socket on a ratchet with a swivel head is the best tool for getting the 4 TC bolts out.

 

Or just pull the intake....it takes only a few extra minutes, then you can get them with any old ratchet or impact.

 

to seat the TC, hold the nub in the center with your finger, and then spin the TC till it seats. It should end up almost flush with the bell housing.

since there's still a lot of fluid still in the valve bodies, pan, and rear housing, it's hard to say how much you'll need. i'd add a quart, then start checking in half quart increments. quick guess - 2 quarts will be plenty.

 

Or just pull the intake....it takes only a few extra minutes, then you can get them with any old ratchet or impact.

and if you're doing head gaskets then it's no extra time since the manifold has to come off anyway.

 

that is annoying. but MT fluid stinks terribly and with center diff failures, clutch failures and input shaft bearing failures...and synchro's, the manuals aren't that advantageous from a maintenance standpoint.

Edited August 8, 201015 yr by grossgary

That's why you unbolt the torque converter before you pull the engine.

Do yourself a favor and replace the input seal on the transmission before you reinstall the converter. About 90% of the time when this happens the seal gets cut and leaks like a sieve then it has to be taken apart twice to fix it.

 

but MT fluid stinks terribly

Amen to that.

I bought a Subaru instead of "Brand V" because I could get it with Emmanuel Transmixer. Now I don't have the token automatic in my family any more.

 

We did a tranny swap on an '88 Saab 900 a few years back, because the crappy BW was failing right on schedule, 150K miles. Took us a week and a lot of advice from a Saab-knowledgeable friend. Sign of the times; the same operation on a '58 Ford took three of us about three hours, and two man-hrs was me hanging the third pedal and setting up the linkage.