A cv on my dad's loyale is going bad, you know making that clunking sound, would it cause any problems to just let it go and not fix it?

 

my dad and I will try to inject grease in it to make it last longer, the wheel is not gonna fall off or anything right?

BUMP!

I don't know if injecting grease will make it last longer, but it can't hurt. The wheel won't fall off unless the castle nut or lug nuts are loose. However, if the CV joint should split at highway speed the axle shaft could do significant damage to the car. I've heard of people going months without it breaking, but sooner or later it will. Used axles are cheap and easy to come by if you're near a pull a part wrecking yard (free practice on how to remove the axle too). Rebuilt axles sell for around $55 to $100 with a core charge. Try http://www.cvaxles.com for the $55 price and let them know you heard it here.

I have gone several months with clicking axles. I have gone a few weeks also. I had one pop on a Brat and I lost power. The inner joint popped and the axle was just bouncing around in the housing. Ball bearings everywhere! I just pulled it into 4wd and took off.

Anyway, don't put in a used axle!! For the money just go and buy a rebuilt/new.

A new NAPA axle will run you $66.99 red sheet (retail) plus a $55.00 core deposit. To me, changing axles isn't nearly as much fun as other stuff you can work on - would rather have a reman than used (and I love to go to PnP's, even with my employee discount).

i had an axle outer end go out on me. i drove around for a few days when finally i made a left turn, and the axle popped out and tore up my caliper, brake line, and bent a tie rod.

 

if the outer end goes, turn the whll all the way, and pop it out with a prybar, and remove the other end from the trans

 

if the inner end goes, it wont pop out so readily(unless maybe catching air on RR tracks, extreme suspension travel

Only Miles would catch RR track air with a bad CV axle!

i had a chevy spectrum/isuzu imark, and i would catch air every dasy coming hme from work, and the axles chunked and jerked the wheel, but they kept going. i drove these poor axles 130 miles one way to probation and weekend jail 6 or so times. i ended up having the front wheel fall off and the car junked before any axle ever let go

hey Fox, HOLY SH!T!!. the undeniable off-road ferocity that is the Cheverolet Spectrum. I haven't hear of this car in forever. a good friend of mine had one in our sophomore year of high school. i loved that little car. we took that little front wheel drive monster all over the place. they go every where and do catch air quite easily. we put holes through the floor panel and everything before the axle eventually went. best part is it was only a $200 car.

So, okay, I have a related question. Recently, my Loyale has been making a very light "click, click, click" noise when braking. It seems to be related to wheel rotations. I can't hear it when coasting or under load, but I can feel the click through the brake pedal. I'm guessing it's a CV on its way out - think I'm right?

i dont know, i think that would be a sign of the cone washer or axle nut being loose, hub somewhat wobbly. it will be more like smack sounding type click, relative to deceleration

 

the trashwagon was making clickity noises, as the threads on the axle shaft were a little boogered, but it broke the outer cv downshifting to an exit ramp in wisconsin on my way west

 

i would check the axle nut torque and the cone washer. mine clicked because i knew of the condition, the axle broke from a bad boot, not torque related

I was joking about the wheel falling off, forgot to put on a when i typed it, just wanted to know if I could let it go for a time.

I'll just get a rebuilt one soon, however.

 

thanks.

 

-AK

just called around and NAPA can get it here tomorrow for $49 or at Advance for $59 now.

 

I'll go get it now and put it in tomorrow.

 

-AK

My car had that clicking noise like that with the brakes and a few days later the brakes locked up. So I would have a look at your brake pads. CV's from my experiance really won't click going straight until there just about to break. I just put a set in my wagon and I few days before they broke they where clicking while going straight. BTW I got over 10,000 mile on my cv axles from the first time I heard them click.

 

Joe

Samo, I had a clicking that progressed from light only on braking to sounding bad. I changed CV axles (one had boots torn out), but it turned out the left outer wheel bearing was going bad from water getting past the seal. Found it when we pulled the axle out and the rust was all over the splines. The other variable that I had was it clicked worse turning one direction and went away turning the other (at speed).

Originally posted by 88xt6joe

CV's from my experiance really won't click going straight until there just about to break.

 

Well then, my XT was on the verge of not being driveable when I first got it. Both front axles would THUNK hard even going straight!

 

Definitely go http://www.cvaxles.com that's what both my Scoobs have up front, both sides...

yes http://www.cvaxles.com is the way to go. thats whats on my cars also. Joe

Thanks for the help guys. The Subaru is due for a check-up some time soon here, so maybe I'll get the click checked out too.

left out side boot broke, was only mild click on hard turn, now even clicks going straight slowly for short distance

occasional HARD pull to right/vigorous shaking of steering wheel and shifter

 

how much longer will it last?

what is the minimum to get the car to go in 4x3?

pry bar, 3/8 punch, hammer, anything else?

nothing better than replace after broke

 

"if it ain't broke, you're not trying"

swap them around left to right and right to left. the pressure onthe cv joint is always on one side and by swapping them it puts the pressure onto the other as yet unused side.

you need a 3/16th punch

 

not a 3/8th