eppoh Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Seems to me a saw a really good tutorial on this board for swapping front axles- had pictures too, can't find it. Anyone know where it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Here's the writeup by edrach, our resident axle guru. No pix but it's pretty clear what you have to do. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75739&highlight=early+ej+axle Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 once the wheel is off you remove one bolt, loosen another, remove the axle nut and knock the pin out, it's really easy. kind of tight snaking it out but no big deal either. the tricks are: mark the head of the top bolt the inner joint only installs one way - note the splines before install so you got it right. it'll slide on any way but the pin will only go back in with it installed one way. that 32 mm axle nut can be INSANE to remove. i've broken 2 sockets and one breaker bar on axle nuts (but i've done a ton fo them too). i got a 3/4" set jsut because of axle nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) Thanks, going to tool store tommorow for a punch and 32mm socket. That nut was off just two months ago when the axle was changed ( crap EMPI) Hopefully, the shop that put it on didn't over torque it. Gonna do it myself this time. What size punch is needed for the pin? Edited December 20, 2010 by eppoh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 That nut was off just two months ago when the axle was changed ( crap EMPI)EMPI axle failed? I had one nut that freaked me out (got a long thread on here about it) - i had previously removed/installed it for a friend who's wheel bearing failed. Had to replace the axle a few months later and the nut wouldn't budge with my 900 ft-lb 3/4" air gun and bent the socket of my 3/4" wrench with a pipe over the handle. it was nuts. not sure how that happened, but i didn't overtighten it. i'm sure that almost never happens and you'll be fine though. What size punch is needed for the pin?3/16". the really long ones are helpful, but not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 New Empi axle lasted about 3 months and less than a 1000 miles. Now it clicks making left turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 i've said it 10 million times but rebooted subarus or MWE is the only way. good luck busting it out, it's actually really simple and quick minus the tricky parts which aren't hard - just need the tools and experience and it's easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 Well, in years past EMPI had a good rep with Volkswagon enthusiasts, and after a really bad experience with new O'reilly axles,l I was willing to try anything. Next time I will just junk the EMPI and get one from one of the builders mentioned on this board. This was an odyssey today. I ordered a puch from the auto supply, but it did not come in. Was going to try to remove the strut bolts, but couldn't get the nuts to budge. The ball joint separated easily without damage. The tie rod bolt started spinning when I tried to remove the nut. Finally got it off using an impact gun and putting shear pressure on the tie rod. The pin came out of the old shaft okay, but my son managed to spread the new pin will driving it in. It would not go the last 1/4 so decided to drive it out and try another. In the process of driving it out, he got the ground off screw driver we were using for a drift really stuck in the shaft. Took almost an hour to get that out! Got it back together but the tie rod bolt was buggered and would not take the nut. I just happened to have another one in the garage, so we replaced it- with some difficulty to get the end broke loose from the inner shaft. All in all, it took 3 hours, and I have not put away the tools yet. Next time, it should go smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Well, in years past EMPI had a good rep with Volkswagon enthusiasts, and after a really bad experience with new O'reilly axles,l I was willing to try anything. Next time I will just junk the EMPI and get one from one of the builders mentioned on this board. This was an odyssey today. I ordered a puch from the auto supply, but it did not come in. Was going to try to remove the strut bolts, but couldn't get the nuts to budge. The ball joint separated easily without damage. The tie rod bolt started spinning when I tried to remove the nut. Finally got it off using an impact gun and putting shear pressure on the tie rod. The pin came out of the old shaft okay, but my son managed to spread the new pin will driving it in. It would not go the last 1/4 so decided to drive it out and try another. In the process of driving it out, he got the ground off screw driver we were using for a drift really stuck in the shaft. Took almost an hour to get that out! Got it back together but the tie rod bolt was buggered and would not take the nut. I just happened to have another one in the garage, so we replaced it- with some difficulty to get the end broke loose from the inner shaft. All in all, it took 3 hours, and I have not put away the tools yet. Next time, it should go smoother. sounds a whole like SOME of my time under a subaru. other times it goes easy as 1,2,3. i think it would be wise for those of us who climb under and work on our own cars to buy pb blaster by the case and spray it on every bolt and nut we see, even the ones we are not working on at the time. it can't hurt. and when was the last time something ''fell off'' a car because it had too much blaster on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 yeah tie rods are tricky like that a lot of times. sometimes you just gotta learn a few tricks hands on, glad you made it through you'll be better for it next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Huh. I've not had a single EMPI axle failure yet. Had a boot fail on my hatch (inner) but no noises. Could be a fluke. They are new, not reman so manufacturing defects happen..... I've used dozens and dozens of them and not just Subarus either. No complaints here. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
union76 Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Here are some photos. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm Second the advice on going w/ MWE axles. I recall seeing another site with photos for a 1992(?) Legacy SS... I'll keep looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 The ball joint separated easily without damage. The tie rod bolt started spinning when I tried to remove the nut. Finally got it off using an impact gun and putting shear pressure on the tie rod. Got it back together but the tie rod bolt was buggered and would not take the nut. I just happened to have another one in the garage, so we replaced it- with some difficulty to get the end broke loose from the inner shaft. My outer tie rod did the same with the nut.. I think I'm going to have to cut the bolt off and just buy a replacement outer rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenpdx Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 sounds a whole like SOME of my time under a subaru. other times it goes easy as 1,2,3. i think it would be wise for those of us who climb under and work on our own cars to buy pb blaster by the case and spray it on every bolt and nut we see, even the ones we are not working on at the time. it can't hurt. and when was the last time something ''fell off'' a car because it had too much blaster on it? Anti-seize compound. can't recommend it enough. and blaster, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 (edited) My outer tie rod did the same with the nut.. I think I'm going to have to cut the bolt off and just buy a replacement outer rod. i don't know how the tie rod bolt got buggered, but FYI for next time, the castle nut is the same thread as the lug nuts. same with the ball joint castle nut. i keep several lug nuts in my tool box so i can beat on them instead of the castle nuts. Edited December 23, 2010 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 i don't know how the tie rod bolt got buggered, but FYI for next time, the castle nut is the same thread as the lug nuts. same with the ball joint castle nut. i keep several lug nuts in my tool box so i can beat on them instead of the castle nuts. I think it was a defect if you ask me.. the thing is the whole tie rod spins if you just try to unscrew it.. I think the part was only like $18 or 20 so it's not that big of a deal right now but my aliment is off still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 i keep several lug nuts in my tool box so i can beat on them instead of the castle nuts.on ones that are really stuck, i've had that mangle the threads too, i don't do it any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Here are some photos.http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm Second the advice on going w/ MWE axles. I recall seeing another site with photos for a 1992(?) Legacy SS... I'll keep looking. Thanks. He sure went to a lot of work to get the axle off. I didn't even have to remove the brake caliper. Just he tie rod end and separate the ball joint. Maybe next time I will take some pictures and post it. Hopefully not too soon, but I do have 2 subies with high miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.