I've officially been shut down by a bearing replacement. I just can't break the bolts loose even with an 18" bar and 175 lbs of monkey. So do I go to a shop and pay the 400 or do I go buy a compressor and impact wrench?

Go to the hardware store and buy three to four feet of pipe that will fit over the wrench, you might even have some at the house, be careful though, your wratchet may fail catastrophically.

 

If that doesn't work get the compressor, its an investment as opposed to a bill.

Go to the hardware store and buy three to four feet of pipe that will fit over the wrench, you might even have some at the house, be careful though, your wratchet may fail catastrophically.

 

If that doesn't work get the compressor, its an investment as opposed to a bill.

 

X2. 175lbs on the end of 4 feet of steel pipe = I don't know the actual conversion off the top of my head, but it's alot more than 175 lbs.

You could also rent a compressor, or if you want to be a weasel, buy and return a compressor. They're good things to have, but there are lots of other tools I'd buy first for the money. I'd say that pipe+ breaker bar should do the trick though.

once in college i took my car to a shop and asked them to loosen one bolt i couldn't get off - they didn't even charge me for it. got any shops close by?

 

remove the axle from the trans so you can just take them the hub/axle assembly if you want. but i'd just have them loosen it and then tighten it with your stuff just tight enough to get home.

 

you need a piece of pipe - an 18" breaker bar isn't nearly enough for an axle nut if that's what you're talking about. you need like 3 feet of pipe minimum for axle nuts. sometimes they come off easy, but there are plenty out there that are insanely hard.

 

got a torch handy? heat the nut up (you want the heat on the nut only) with a propane torch and try to remove it immediately. even the little propane ones help tremendously if you're quick with it. got a hammer - poor man's impact wrench is to wail the end of your breaker bar.

 

on tight axle nuts a 1/2" tool will break, i've sheared off 3, so make sure it's a craftsmen or replaceable.

 

know anyone you can borrow tools from - long pipe, 3/4" socket?

 

also - easier than a bearing job is just swapping in a used hub.

 

you don't need to spend $400, you've still got dozens of options.

Hand impact - smack the ratchet/breaker bar with a 3-4 lb hammer. I do it all the time. I can EASILY put out more torque than my "650 Ft/lb" 1/2" impact gun. I routinely loosen crank pulley bolts, axle nuts, etc with this method.

 

GD

Hand impact - smack the ratchet/breaker bar with a 3-4 lb hammer. I do it all the time. I can EASILY put out more torque than my "650 Ft/lb" 1/2" impact gun. I routinely loosen crank pulley bolts, axle nuts, etc with this method.

 

GD

It helps to be left-handed... or have a very trusting assistant. It also it can be very unpleasant if you miss.

Agree with all the posts, a compressor and impact isn't necessary. I'm currently in the middle of the same job. We talking about the axle nut or the lateral link bolt? Axle nut is easier comparatively. If you can't coax that lateral link bolt out after days of PB blaster soaks, just cut off the seized end of the lateral link bolt with a sawzall and press the bushing and seized sleeve out of the lateral link. The LL bolt might be seized to the knuckle in two places as well. For the pressing, borrow a handheld ball joint press from autozone or find a friend with a harbor freight press to do it off-car.

 

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f106/t95168-help-rear-lateral-link-bolts-seized.html

$400 for a wheel bearing? Really? That should be more like $150 or less (assuming you provide the parts).

I have a snap on Cordless impact wrench that takes off things my air tools won't. It was expensive though.

 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=89708&PartNo=CT6850&group_id=19913

 

Are you trying to remove the axle nut? Did you try putting the spare tire on, put the car back on the ground, and stick the socket thru the wheel center hole?

Impact is fine if it's not beating against axle balls and gear teeth and other flex. It's also disturbing with 4' and leverage at angle like that. Certainly the tire should be on and failing that, the brakes applied. Anything and everything to make one side solid compared to the other that's being wailed.

Different car andifferent time but there were pipewrenches with cheaters grasping the axle then dropping the car down to tense it up. Then beating it.

Harbor Freight Co sells an electric impact wrench. Cost is about $50. It works surprisingly well. Besides your job, it is a great tool to have in your garage for future projects.

Harbor Freight Co sells an electric impact wrench. Cost is about $50. It works surprisingly well. Besides your job, it is a great tool to have in your garage for future projects.

my buddy had great luck with one of those two (i didn't think it would worK).

I use a 600mm half inch drive breaker bar (600mm = 2'). Add 4' of pipe to the end and it has always worked. The bar bends a fair bit sometimes but hasn't broken yet. Also a very handy tool to have for tightening them back up.

3/4 drive breaker bar, and cheater pipe. works pretty much every time. Tire needs to be on the car & car on the ground, tho. break it loose, then jack up the car & remove tire for the rest of the disassembly.

 

picked up a "cheap" 3/4 drive, large metric socket set (18mm thru 40 something mm) at harbor freight - yeah it says "made in china" on it, but it works...

3/4 drive breaker bar, and cheater pipe. works pretty much every time.

 

no question, that is the way to remove the axle nut.

 

what about the lateral link bolts? same trick?

no question, that is the way to remove the axle nut.

 

what about the lateral link bolts? same trick?

 

honestly, have not had to do the lateral link bolts myself, but would think it would work, with liberal application of some type of deep creep oil for several days in advance...have heard the horror stories about those, which is why i took mine in for the rear whl bearing replacement - the shop has the correct tools and if they break something, they have to replace it!

I'll put my 4lb hammer up against any breaker bar. This is why really big impacts were invented - sharp blows applied repeatedly do the trick. I havent met my match yet and do not own any 3/4" drive tools. It's all about how you use the force. People that have been to my shop know of what I speak.

 

I laid aside all that big cumbersome stuff when I left the army. There's good reasons I don't drive big trucks - the dang parts are too heavy and the fasteners are too tight! These are Subaru's not tanks!

 

GD

Edited December 24, 201015 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thank you so much everyone for all the tips and shedding the lift on son concepts I just didn't quite understand. I'll enjoy some egg nogg for a couple of days away then get after it when I get home with a hammer and a torch. Hopefully in a friends driveway instead of a dirt road. Thanks again.

These are Subaru's not tanks!

GD

 

WHAT?!?!?! They arent?? oh GD, you have shattered my delusions!! :lol: