alvaro quinonez Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I have a 1999 subaru outback legacy. After talking to several people I have determined I need a new head gasket. I do not know how to remove it, please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 pull engine, start disassembling until the heads are off. keep good track of all the parts and reassemble just like it was. in some ways it's really hard. the way you ask the question *suggests* you have no idea where to start and this job might be too big for you. it is quite an undertaking - it doesn't cost $1,200 to replace a $60 gasket for no reason. in other ways it's not hard, there's just a lot of bolts and parts to keep track of and pull the motor. this motor is really hard to do in the engine bay - you can try and jack the engine up, unbolt some mounts, etc but it's not a fun job without pulling the engine. it's the hardest subaru engine to do in the car and isn't possible without at least moving the engine some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvaro quinonez Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 (edited) yes very good reply, lifting the engine was a concern next to avoiding dangerous high pressure connections. I use a video camera and take pictures so I am confident with keeping track of bolts. the labor cost was a big issue thanks. how much does my engine weigh? do you know of any picture walkthroughs around? Edited February 13, 2011 by alvaro quinonez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legback Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I did mine without lift but skinned every knuckle and beat up the drivers side low near valve cover bolt. That was the worst single bolt. With a plethora of extensions and combinations of wierd length do hickiy 's and some tape....it is possible. Not fun but possible. I'd pull it next time fo shnizzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 yes very good reply, lifting the engine was a concern next to avoiding dangerous high pressure connections. I use a video camera and take pictures so I am confident with keeping track of bolts. the labor cost was a big issue thanks. how much does my engine weigh? do you know of any picture walkthroughs around? The engine weighs something like 230lbs. There aren't any dangerous high pressure connections, except maybe AC. But that just swings to the side. Lifting the engine out isn't that big a deal, get a come-along or two... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Take great care when reinstalling motor. The motor must be seated correctly to the automatic transmission. Otherwise, the transmission will be ruined if improperly seated. Others hear can tell you specifically how to do it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Take great care when reinstalling motor. The motor must be seated correctly to the automatic transmission. Otherwise, the transmission will be ruined if improperly seated. Others hear can tell you specifically how to do it correctly. The biggest thing is to make sure the torque converter is fully seated. When the engine and transmission are fully mated, the flex plate (FP) and torque converter (TQ) should not be touching. The TQ bolts pull the TQ out to meet the FP when you bolt them together. If the FP and TQ touch before the engine and trans are fully mated, pull the engine back out and seat the TQ fully. Also, take a wire brush or wire wheel to the mounting pegs to clean them up. I also took a rat tail file and cleaned out the inside of the holes they mate to. This just makes it easier to have them slide together. Then coat them in some anti-seize so they don't stick so bad getting it apart next time.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvaro quinonez Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 dear 987 and rooster, thanks for the tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 oh crack that's a crazy picture! like he said, unbolt the compressor from the engine and swing the entire thing to the side without unbolting any a/c lines from the compressor so you dont' have to vent the a/c. not really a big deal to just vent it and recharge it though either but saves a step anyway. have string or something available to hold it out of the way as you work, otherwise it'll be under tension and keep wanting to swing back into your way. never seen a picture walk through, subaru's are relatively simple with few tricks needed. unbolt exhaust from engine (have something under it to support it...though I often don't, it stresses the connections further back) disconnect electrical plugs vacuum lines, air intake, radiator hoses, fuel lines, a/c compressor, heater core hoses, power steering pump and lines. remove starter and engine to trans bolts and two motor mount nuts in the lower crossmember. rotate engine so that you can remove the 4 flexplate bolts holding the flexplate and torque converter together. start prying and working your way around the engine/transmission with a screwdriver, bigger screw driver, chisel, until the engine/trans are separated. pull engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Here is a link to a post about how to change a HG on a DOHC (like you have). http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html Like the others have said, its involved and does need some knowledge, but many people have done their own. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Just another little note. Put tape around fuel lines to mark which ones go where. There are three of them, two are the same size. If you put them back on wrong it won't work. Same with heater core lines. Take the extra minute to mark it, that way you'll be sure to get it back together the right way. Also vacuum lines, if you're not sure you'll be able to get them all back on where they're supposed to go, mark them. If it doesn't start when you put it all back together it makes troubleshooting that much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Just another little note. Put tape around fuel lines to mark which ones go where. There are three of them, two are the same size. If you put them back on wrong it won't work. Same with heater core lines. Take the extra minute to mark it, that way you'll be sure to get it back together the right way. Also vacuum lines, if you're not sure you'll be able to get them all back on where they're supposed to go, mark them. If it doesn't start when you put it all back together it makes troubleshooting that much easier. I disconnect one of the fuel lines at the car, the other at the intake, the third is a different size. No tape and marking needed (since gas has a tendency to screw up tape and markings). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I disconnect one of the fuel lines at the car, the other at the intake, the third is a different size. No tape and marking needed (since gas has a tendency to screw up tape and markings). Good point if you're putting the same engine back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Good point if you're putting the same engine back in half the time I'm not. but both engines are here so it's easy enough to look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvaro quinonez Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 i'm working on my car right now (5pm est.), i have to relase the fuel pressure but i disconnected the black plastic intake. and i just read that in order to relieve the fuel pressure i need to turn the car on. so do i have to re-attach the intake to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 i'm working on my car right now (5pm est.), i have to relase the fuel pressure but i disconnected the black plastic intake. and i just read that in order to relieve the fuel pressure i need to turn the car on. so do i have to re-attach the intake to do this? Just put a rag around the line as you pull it off. Fuel doesn't squirt out or anything crazy. Not much even drips out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 although the intake is unbolted, if it is still connected electrically, just unplug the fuel pump and grank the engine. this will open the injectors and relieve the pressure since the fuel pump would be disabled. you can just undo the line nder the hood, draping a rag over the fitting, and this will clear the fuel pressure all the way back to the pump. mind you, however, that when you disconnect the line at the fual tank, there may be some unpressurized fuel in the lines. keep a rag handy to soak up the fuel before it spills on the interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 alvaro, this seems to be your longest recent thread, use it for all of your questions regarding this project. there is no need to start a new thread for each question. those of us who are here every day are going to read what ever you post with little regard for the title. posting a new thread for each question is a waste of time and computer space. good luck and keep at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 bleeding fuel pressure is a waste of time. just pull the fuel line, barely anything comes out, but wrap it in a rag to catch what sprays/bleeds out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvaro quinonez Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 alvaro, this seems to be your longest recent thread, use it for all of your questions regarding this project. there is no need to start a new thread for each question. those of us who are here every day are going to read what ever you post with little regard for the title. posting a new thread for each question is a waste of time and computer space. good luck and keep at it. I will try to avoid creating a new thread, because i do understand what you mean and it makes perfect sense to do so since I am trying to reach only 1 goal. Yet, I notice that I cannot post a new picture on this thread, so if I face a unknown part I may post a new thread and I want to apoligize in advance if it bothers you. I also had the assumption that people who read this post may not want to go thru everyone elses comment in order to provide help and that is why I made subordinate posts for specific questions. I am new to this page, so I will take your word, I am happy with the help so far from everyone including yourself so I'll try my best to keep new threads at a minimum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Yet, I notice that I cannot post a new picture on this thread, Just click on the "Manage Attachments" button in the "Additional Options" box under the text window. You can upload pics straight from your computer that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvaro quinonez Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 hello everyone, I have removed a couple things from the engine this week including, air filter, intake, belts, radiator, fans, hoses, and moved power steering out of the way. I posted a gig on craigslist requesting engine removal help for $100. Today I received a offer to change my head gasket for a total of $200. The person told me engine removal was unecssasary and that all he had to do was slightly move the engine. Then he mentioned he sprays a copper spray to assure it seals. Anyways, I just want some input, should I go for it? any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 I don't believe copper spray is warranted or a good idea on a Subaru. I've used it a lot on VW 1.8 and 2.0's but never on a Suby. Personally I don't think you can do near as well of a quality job with the engine in the car. Well, you probably can if you wanna make a point of it. But really it's not time well spent in my book. It's a lot harder to prep the block and see what it looks like for instance. Then you know the baffle plate is gonna need resealed (even though yours may be aluminum). I'd guess this kinda fella won't use OEM gaskets either. I'd pass myself. I'm thinking you may be out more than 200 bucks by the time you fix it again. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvaro quinonez Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 I did mine without lift but skinned every knuckle and beat up the drivers side low near valve cover bolt. That was the worst single bolt. With a plethora of extensions and combinations of wierd length do hickiy 's and some tape....it is possible. Not fun but possible. I'd pull it next time fo shnizzle. what do you think? this guy said he would do the job for $200 and he has experience with this car....and you basically said it was hell, would you charge someone 200 for the job? and if not, what would you do if you were trying to scam someone? or take a shortcut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 200 is a fair price for a timing belt/idler crank/cam seals WP job alone in my opinion done correctly. Don't know you or this guy. But I wouldn't go for it. I won't post anymore in this thread. But especially if you take the cheap route I hope you'll update us a few times over the next several thousand miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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