drdan52000 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 (edited) I'm new here and like your site. I have a 92 loyal with 1.8 and 5 speed. I have engine warn light on the dash. So I looked around till I found how to active the flashing light. I connected the 2 white wires and pull the panel under the wheel. The light flashes pretty fast 5 times repeatedly. Is this the 55 code or am I miss reading this? Where is the the temp senors? What would be causing this problem? The car seem to run to pretty good, with maybe a small drop in fuel mileage. :eek::eek: Thanks Edited March 9, 2011 by drdan52000 Wrong flash codes, new 24 and 35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 This might help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918&highlight=codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 The sensor may be behind the throttle body on the passenger side. It is a two wire sensor I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 I look at the motor for the sensor. I did not see it. I was looking at the EGR vacuum line and followed them though a swich. Would this EGR Temperature Senso be in the water jack or exhaust system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 If it's an EA82 SPFI engine the EGR temp sensor was only installed on the California cars I as far as I know. It's located on the intake manifold right near the EGR valve itself. US cars have a boss in the intake for it but it is not drilled out. It's very possible that if you pull the EGR valve and the temp sensor out that the passage ways are just plugged up with carbon and it can't read the temp correctly. It reads Exhaust temperature, not Coolant Temp, that's why it has to be mounted in the intake right near the EGR valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Yes its a SPFI, EA82 (1.8) And yes there is a EGR valve that was installed new about 3 or 4 years ago, by the first owner. So Do only CA have EGR? I can buy that it could be carbon up. I'll look this week for the sensor, maybe I can pull the EGR off and clean it up. Still not sure I did the code thing right?? The timing just dosen't match the code info from here. Thanks for the input. Anything is help full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 No, ALL SPFI vehicles have the EGR valve - only CAL cars have the temp sensor for it, at least that is my understanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 5 rapid flashes continually reapeating is NOT a code 55 - it's the model designation code and does not indicate a fault. You are not performing the procedure correctly. You probably do not have an EGR temp sensor as those only came on California models. For a code 55 it would have to be 5 long flashes followed by 5 short. You have a code "5" which is a model designator. You do not have an EGR temp sensor based on that model code which is the code for a 49 states model. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Back to the drawing board. I'll check the code page again to see what I maybe doing wrong. Thanks for pointing out flashing light info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 When got home, it was still light out. Pull the white and green connector apart and turn key on. got for codes 11 crank angle sensor. 12 crank angle sensor. 24 air control valve. 35 purge control solenoid. I'm pretty sure I don't have crank angle sensor?? I have not seen anything like that on the engine. The car runs good, but this check engine light been on for the past year, like clear this up. Any ideals out there Are the white or green connectors, stay connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 If the engine is not running you will get a couple of those codes... pretty sure about the "12", probably the "11". The crank angle sensor is in the distributor (a slotted disk with optical detector), and since it is not moving with the engine off you will see a code. The car will not fun if this is truly a problem. Diagnostic connectors should be disconnected for normal running. If left connected, the ignition timing will be fixed (no ignition advance) and the fuel pump will cycle on and off as long as the ignition is on, even when the engine is not running (a potential fire hazard). Purge control solenoid is a common failure; several ways to deal with it. I am not sure about the "air control valve", and I am too tired(lazy) to look in my manuals at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) Thanks for your input. Today at lunch time, found the air control valve and what believe is the purge control. Pulled connector apart and check for voltage with key on, not running. I have 11 to 12 volts. Did OHM reading and both and found that I have open on the purge control solenoid and some restestes on the air control. Would the purge cause a CEL? Edited March 10, 2011 by drdan52000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Replace the purge (and EGR) solenoids with 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistors. Pickup a used Idle Air Control valve (IAC) from the junk yard. They don't often fail. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 Thanks for the reply. Was thinking that could work. Till i locate and used one or fix the wiring on the old one. Could the air control valve be cleaned ? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdan52000 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Will I didn't have the 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistors. I used a 194 bulb socket with some pig tail and cut the wire from the purge valve, and butt connected it up. The CEL turn off, in less than 2 minutes. So that was causing the CEL. I will clear the codes and re check it again in a coup of days. Thanks again great help. I look around at the junk yards for another valve. The after market is $100 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 The bulb is probably too low resistance, so it will effectively be a short and overload the driver in the ECU. You can get vacuum solenoids from loads of cars in the junkyard and just splice the wires to the subaru connector. I used one from a Cadillac Seville for a while, worked fine. You kind of want to keep the purge control solenoid working, it sucks the gas vapors from the charcoal canister into the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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