Hey,

Does anyone know of a good Subaru Repair shop in or around Portland ?

I hate to go to the dealer because they tend to propose more work than you actually need. Need to replace Cam seals and o-rings due to a oil leak.

Thanks !

GD is a member here and I thought he was in portland. he works on folks cars and knows Subaru's inside and out. have him do it.

Give GD a holler. He'll get you hooked up.

General Disorder

Lots of people don't put those seals in right and end up with the same leak 10,000 miles down the road. GD will do it right for way less than the dealer.

 

Jacob

Richie and his Dad do a pretty good job also, with 2 shops in the PDX area.

http://www.fixmysuby.com/

Those are very simple to change. Probably about three hours or so. Send me a PM or an email to cropperr (at) gmail (dot) com

 

GD

Great options, geckolizard. For planning purposes, keep in mind that they will have to open up the engine's front end to do what you ask. That becomes an excellent time to replace timing belt, tensioner, idlers and waterpump--a real time/labor savings in the long run. If you need them, that is.

 

Just something else to ponder!

Another vote for richierich and Superior Import Repair. Two shops in Portland. www.fixmysuby.com

I've had a couple of vehicles in my shop (one that I own) that have had their belts and cam seals done by Superior Import. Neither had the cam seals done correctly. As with a lot of shops the quality comes down to who does the job and I'm sure if Richie did it himself things would be different. But you only have so much control over the monkeys. Besides not having any employees other than myself I'm also cheaper

GD

I've had a couple of vehicles in my shop (one that I own) that have had their belts and cam seals done by Superior Import. Neither had the cam seals done correctly. As with a lot of shops the quality comes down to who does the job and I'm sure if Richie did it himself things would be different. But you only have so much control over the monkeys. Besides not having any employees other than myself I'm also cheaper

GD

 

I am sure. Not having to pay for insurance, state industrial, medical benefits for employees not to mention taxes, licenses and such.

 

When one guy comes out and bashes another shops work always makes me wonder why he feels that he needs to do that... just saying due to the fact that the door was opened.

When one guy comes out and bashes another shops work always makes me wonder why he feels that he needs to do that... just saying due to the fact that the door was opened.

 

I'm getting tired of all the engines I open up that have leaky cam seals (and front mains) because they were driven in too far or crooked. That's pretty much the extent of my complaint. The dealers and a couple other shops that haven't been drug into this are guilty too - "Mountain Tech" is a big offender since Terry (I think was his name - their resident expert) died a while back..... It seems that very little care is given to the instruction on how to *properly* install seals. Proper seal installation is critical for longest life.... the problem is that the leak won't show up for 10k or 20k or 40k.... entirely dependant on how badly it was installed. But it will not last the 105k till the next belt. And the shop either will not warantee it because "That was over 25k miles ago!" (I have no idea what their warantee period is) or the customer just doesn't know any better.

 

Improper cam seal installation and subsequent leakage is eaily the #1 reason for opening up a timing belt before it's due in my experience when replacement of idlers and water pump are part of the job. Across the board this is routinely missed by mechanics everywhere. I don't know exactly why but I suppose it has to do with their background being in automotive where things are very often simplified far beyond belief for the modern "parts hanger" mentality that pervades even the dealerships. That and most other manufacturers put steps in the bore where the seal goes for the seal to shoulder against insuring it is both flush, not blocking return passages, and straight. Why Subaru does not..... I do not know.

 

GD