There is rust on the rear driver's side panel of a GL I'm thinking of picking up. I live in MT, so what do you think? Is there a good chance there is rust on the frame? I think I can get it for 900. I have a 90 that has a busted transmission, and I've always liked the optional 4wd on these older ones.

In my opinion, no, there are so many rust free cars really not that far away from you (OR and WA)

the ea81's are great bullet proof cars, but 900 might be a lil steep. I bought a rusted through 86 hatch for 400. and my current 84 wagon for 500 (this was a great deal for it's condition).

 

Do you have anymore info on the car?

year, miles, can you check for rust in other areas?

 

also what are you planning on using it for?

It is a 1988 GL wagon with 235,000 on it. New timing belt, clutch, head gaskets, plugs and wires. I'll be driving through a mountain pass to work 25 miles, each way, every day. Plus the occasional forest access.

Where's the car from originally? Is it rust through or surface? I don't like rust but there is a big difference between replacing a rocker vs. extensive body and frame rot.

 

You know best... is this a reasonable price for MT? Whether you like it or not different areas of the country dictate prices (old subies can be pricey in AK).

 

Good luck

Out in the Midwest we would jump on that in a heart beat, folks out west really don't understand what "Rust" is.

panel/body rust is no indicator at all of frame/underbody/suspension rust. no way to know for sure without looking.

 

$900 for a quarter million miles? seems steep, but not really a ton of money in the end.

 

if it has the original quarter million mile timing belt pulleys and water pump (unlikely) i wouldn't consider it a daily driver until those are replaced. ebay kits are cheap though, like $60 but it's $300 labor if you can't do it yourself.

Thanks a lot everybody. I think I'll offer him 600 and let him get back to me in a couple of weeks if he wants to take the offer. I would like to have the GL over a 93 legacy I'm also looking at, but maybe it just isn't in the cards.

By defuinition, that woud be considered rust-free by midwest standards.

 

Ihave seen cars that are clean on the outside, and rusted out underneath(silver, metallic blue) and others that are surface rusty on the outside, but very solid underneath(white, charcoal, red/burgundy)

 

And here i am driving around in cars with no floors and framerails, that i plan on fixing, while everyone is afraid of a single rust spot.

 

I suppose you can go for rust free examples not too far away, since geographically, you have that option. In the midwest, you have to take what you can get if you want it.

 

But in any regard, a rust free car will rust out vvery soon if it is imported to a rusty environment, so starting with a rust free car versus one with a little rust is almost a moot point, unless you plan on never driving the car, and lever letting it out of the garage.

 

I think the idea of compromise from rust is exaggerated a bit here on the forum, mainly that most of the folks here are from rust free regions that would not be used to seeing as much, or even aware that other people daily drive and usually have much rustier cars than what would be considered 'safe' by people who never had rusty cars.

 

If the brake and fuel lines havent rusted through yet, then the car is not totally done and can be useful with a little work.