I have been meaning to ask this for a while, finally remembered. All the mustache bars I see have gaps between the bushings (?) and the bar. Is that the way it is supposed to be or are the bushings worn down?

 

Yes, those are pretty worn.

I've been meaning to try this on my RX, have yet to get the parts.

 

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27738&highlight=%2415+mod

Yes, those are pretty worn.

I've been meaning to try this on my RX, have yet to get the parts.

 

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27738&highlight=%2415+mod

 

That indeed works! I know a guy who did that to his XT-6.

 

I've been meaning to find those for my Loyale.

 

Thanks Rob.

Yes, those are pretty worn.

I've been meaning to try this on my RX, have yet to get the parts.

 

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27738&highlight=%2415+mod

 

Thanks! That's a great tip. Easy install and I know it's going to make a noticeable difference. I am going to try to get that done tomorrow.

That was easy. I have some leading rod bushings I was going to try, but I could not find them so I picked up some of the rag joint discs.

 

The outer diameter is a little large for ea81 mounts, but the inner diameter was perfect. It would probably be good to have a little rubber on the bottom, but I will deal with that later.

 

An alternative to the rag joint is to use stacked layers of radiator hose.

 

Ive replaced more than a few rag joints in cars using this method. Including my lifted GL.

 

It works great, and in my opinion is superior to the pre-fab rag joints. They seem to me less prone to cracking and failing.

 

 

 

This is similar to how mine on the brat look... Guess I need some new bushings

I was at the yard today, so I grabbed a couple leading rod bushings off an ea81 and installed them. They're a bit thicker, but once I got the nut to catch a thread they installed easily. You have to crank somewhat forcibly at the end to make sure the nut seats completely. Seems like they will work well and the price is right. I think I might redo it later and cut the bushing in half, so the bushing that is internal to the mustache bar isn't pushed up. It's probably ok the way it is though. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

Follow up:

 

After installing the extra rubber I had a vibration (during acceleration) show up that I convinced myself was a front CV joint. I already had some vibration from a DOJ getting worn. After replacing both front CV half shafts, removing the rear axles, greasing the u-joints, and changing the rear diff fluid I still had the vibration and noise.

 

I pulled the rubber bushings today, and it seems like the vibration has gone away. The only thing I can think of is that having the diff locked down so much pushed the drive shaft up into the trans. so much that it lifted the back end of the trans. up into the tunnel a bit causing the trans. to vibrate against something during acceleration. Trans. and engine mounts are new.

 

The mustache bar wasn't designed to be immobilized so much anyway. Really the bushings inside the muctache bar ends and top and bottom washers are what need to be replaced.

Agreed, you don't want it too stiff so it doesn't move (That torque has to go somewhere) it would be like having solid motor mounts Lol!

I just added another set of wornish washers/bushings onto mine and had good results.