Ahh, different shocks.right.I knew that earlier description didna sound right..

 

At that point your basically treating it like sheet metal and doing spot welds.WITH complete cooldown inbetween..

 

Would work well if you find the right balance of springs.Fronts a skosch different since your dealing with the engine weight...

cheers

So I clearanced out the upper pivot points so I could get more up travel out of it and I now have 10 inches of travel at the hub. here's a pic of drivers at full droop and pass a full compression.

 

 

And this is the area thats limiting any more up travel still need to decide if I want to to anything about it.

 

in relation to the upper arm it only looks to be about 5=6 inches of travel.That saves money on shocks!

When welding the shocks I welded very low on the shock and where I knew the incert was welded in the tube. Tacked and cooled in water tacked and cooled. So on.

or you could do inboard shock mounting

 

there sure is enough room for it where the spare is.

in relation to the upper arm it only looks to be about 5=6 inches of travel.That saves money on shocks!

 

Yep I measured the travel at the point I plan to mount the shock and its just a little over 6 inches, So back to the pick and pull to get some shocks to play with.

or you could do inboard shock mounting

 

there sure is enough room for it where the spare is.

 

 

thats not entirely possible without building an entire front subframe.due to mounting issues up top, and the fact he has no spare tire well:grin:It's a lego....

cheers

 

 

Cheap, long travel coil overs. and easy to make really.

 

Yikes! I hope that's going on a golf cart instead of a car.

Yikes! I hope that's going on a golf cart instead of a car.

 

Actually, he had this set up, or similar on the car he built

Actually, he had this set up, or similar on the car he built

 

...and that's supposed to make it okay?

 

He took a basic shock absorber, welded to it and is using it to support the full weight of the vehicle.

...and that's supposed to make it okay?

 

He took a basic shock absorber, welded to it and is using it to support the full weight of the vehicle.

 

Evidently you haven't looked at many of the builds on here, or any forum for that matter.

Evidently you haven't looked at many of the builds on here, or any forum for that matter.

 

I've seen some sketchy stuff here (like this homemade suspension build), but that's dangerous.

I've seen some sketchy stuff here (like this homemade suspension build), but that's dangerous.

 

Huh

...and that's supposed to make it okay?

 

He took a basic shock absorber, welded to it and is using it to support the full weight of the vehicle.

 

how is that any different than the stock rear shock, its really nothing more than a basic shock with a spring perch on it.

 

Also I don't see whats sketchy or unsafe about my set up, between the tubing metal and hardware I'm using its likely 5 times stronger than the stock stuff. Just because we don't have Engineering degrees and aren't using computers and complicated math doesn't make it unsafe.

how is that any different than the stock rear shock, its really nothing more than a basic shock with a spring perch on it.

 

Also I don't see whats sketchy or unsafe about my set up, between the tubing metal and hardware I'm using its likely 5 times stronger than the stock stuff. Just because we don't have Engineering degrees and aren't using computers and complicated math doesn't make it unsafe.

 

eggzachary,(what he^ said) i have seen WAY more sketch from all over these here interwebs....cheers

So here's a noobish question then. Do the 2" and 4" lifts by, say, SJR create alot of bump steer problems when you are daily driving? As I understand it (limited knowledge of lifting at this point...) those kits are technically just body lifts. When I get around to mildly lifting my wagon, I really don't want to have to fiddle with geometry and still want a decent in-town/highway driveability.

 

 

my kits are 1" over stock so a 4" lift has 3" engine crossmember block , except on the EA81 a 4" lift is 4" all around

 

I like your ideas will be watching progress and Interested what works in the real world

This build looks awesome!! I've been thinking of doing a similar one but with a EA81 body. Keep up the good work. You've got me inspired.

 

Jesse

its alot less sketch than welding blocks to the leaf spring mounts like some people do to lift there truck...

I've seen some sketchy stuff here (like this homemade suspension build), but that's dangerous.

 

false. Nothing wrong with it. Besides, even IF it were to fail, what's the worst that could happen? It's not a strut, it has nothing to do with the alignment. If that lower spring perch broke, the spring would move about an inch or 2 and rest on the trailing arm, and the car would be just fine. It'd make some racket, but certainly not dangerous.

false. Nothing wrong with it. Besides, even IF it were to fail, what's the worst that could happen? It's not a strut, it has nothing to do with the alignment. If that lower spring perch broke, the spring would move about an inch or 2 and rest on the trailing arm, and the car would be just fine. It'd make some racket, but certainly not dangerous.

 

Thanks guys.

its alot less sketch than welding blocks to the leaf spring mounts like some people do to lift there truck...

 

Umm no its not. There are thousands of trucks on the road with blocks and quite a few of them are welded to the spring perch.

 

That's not even an equal comparison? That shock wasn't designed to last more than a few years and wasn't supposed to carry a load. I suspect that the upper coil mount will rip the shock to pieces on a good bump if the top shock mount doesn't break/bend first.

The web wheelers are out and cranky......Keep up the work and don't listen to the haters. They are just jealous. And BTW my home made coil overs work excellent.

Edited September 27, 201114 yr by bigo1966

Umm no its not. There are thousands of trucks on the road with blocks and quite a few of them are welded to the spring perch.

 

That's not even an equal comparison? That shock wasn't designed to last more than a few years and wasn't supposed to carry a load. I suspect that the upper coil mount will rip the shock to pieces on a good bump if the top shock mount doesn't break/bend first.

 

a coilover shock not designed to handle a load? yer off your rocker. providing its mounting points are radially loaded and not side loaded its going to be fine, especially since he went to a SLA front suspension.

 

and anyways, if it does break, his wheel will still be on the car, buried in the wheel well.... not rolled over in a firey death wreck. at least somebody is going and seeing what works in the real world. without people like him, we would never have the legendary 2" block lift that is tried, true, yet frequently called sketchy.

any progress with the shocks/coilovers?

No, I still need to get some shocks, I think I'm just going to order some ranchos I've been looking through there catalog to find the right one with the right stroke and attachment points I need.