Idasho Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 1984 GL new OE water pump, new OEM T-stat, good hoses, dual fans (A/C), and everything seems to be working as it should. The previous owner claimed that the radiator was just replaced, and it looks to be new. I thought everything was fine until a recent trip. For those in the PNW that are familiar with highway 95 down through Idaho, the car started to overheat on Whitebird pass Monday afternoon. We were loaded down (3 adults plus a good amount of gear), it was hot (95 degrees), heater was on full blast, and I was taking it slow and easy (2nd gear @ 30mph). But the temps just kept on rising. It finally hit the red and I pulled off. The radiator cap popped and it puked about a qt of coolant. So we let the car cool down long enough to remove the cap to top the coolant off. I might just be asking too much from the little car, but I dont know. Whitebird pass is no joke of a grade during the summer, but I would like to make it POSSIBLE to pull it without the fear of cooking the engine. Thoughts? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Have a shop flow test the Rad. Or maybe look into something like a three core. I have been on whitebird and you are right, it is no joke. The only other things I can think of is maybe your HGs aren't up to par and maybe leaking or maybe its just too much for the poor motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 The motor should not overheat, no matter the load on it. If anything you could be wound out in 2nd gear doing 30 mph, and the motor should still be cooling just fine, and 95* is not THAT hot out either. These little engines can take the abuse. There is something wrong with your cooling system. I agree to have the rad flow tested to make sure it's flowing right. Other than that it looks like you got everything else covered... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 That or the cylinder head gaskets are starting to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 verify that the fan(s) are coming on when it's overheating. are both hoses hot when it's overheating? do you have heat when it's running hot? when it's running hot does running the heat help bring it back down? radiators are usually really predictable - they don't overheat sometimes and then not others - it is clogged or it's not and it'll be load dependent. climb a steep grade - overheat. drive at night (cool outside), never overheats....etc. if it was previously overheating....which sounds like it has been, radiator replaced, etc - there's no telling how much overheating this engine has seen. 25 year old gaskets aren't the most forgiving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Yes, I Believe it has Bad Head Gaskets, Specially if it Trend to Have certain "Pressure" on the Radiator, You'll notice that when removing the Rad's Cap while engine is Cool, there could be some "Blow" Sound. Good Luck! Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Thanks for the responses guys. The previous owner had replaced the headgaskets before I purchased it. Ive put more than 8k miles on it now, and the motor doesnt burn any coolant that I can tell. Level never goes down, and no smoke out the back (exhaust is catless too). I have plenty of heat when the heater is on. And running the heater on the flats before the next serious grade managed to bring the temps down pretty well. This is the first real test Ive put this little motor to. As mentioned, Whitebird is no joke. It is quite the test even for much newer vehicles during the summer. Ill toss a new radiator at it. They are cheap enough. Hopefully that does it. And after looking at new radiators online Im thinking that this radiator might be original. It doesnt have the automatic trans cooling lines. Seems that all I can find online for replacement are universal for manual and automatic trans rigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 If it doesn't have trans cooler lines then yea it is probably stock or was picked up from a junk yard. I am right there with you on the new one. My hatch has less than 1000 miles on new HGs and warms up a little too much on the highway and gets hot on any hills and mine aren't even close to Whitebird. Once that is done I finally get to move on to the other car whoo hoo. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Replace the radiator cap, too! The little bugger has cost a lot of people a lot of problems. Doubly true if it's the original (as the radiator might be if your check is correct). If it's not holding pressure...that's bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 The cap is new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Subarus dont burn coolant they tend to vomit it. Is it the proper cap? Have you given the system a really good flush? How did you fill the system? Any bubbles in the coolant after the car is warmed up How is the heat? Are the cooling fans in one peice and operative Is it a subaru t-stat (if they are available for this, I do not know). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 I drove it again this weekend. 200+ miles without problems. Temp stayed midway within NORMAL. Outside temp is down to mid 80's, and no serious grades to pull. At least not 7+% ones that are 7+ miles long OEM cap. Flushed less than 10k miles ago. Only way I can fill the system, at the radiator cap neck. I plan to install an overflow bottle. The car has been de-emmisioned, so there is a ton of room where the charcoal canister used to be. No bubbles. Heat is marginal. But every time I flush the heater core more chunks come out. The car needs a radiator and heater core. Both fans are working as they should. Primary fan kicks on at 3/4 temp, turns off when the temp works down. AC fan kicks on with the AC. OEM T-stat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 You didnt quite answer my question. Fill procedure for any car: Remove cap Start car fill cooling system Wait for t-stat to open (will be a rush of coolant maybe some overflow) Top off coolant fill resivoir to hit line Replace cap, drive, let car cool off Check coolant Sounds like you had an air bubble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 The coolant level hasnt moved in 8k miles. (only exception being this one event) There is no bubble. Radiator was filled with engine running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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