There's a great front wheel bearing guide. I've looked at it before, but never too much in detail. Now that I think I might have a noisy front wheel bearing, I wanted to look in greater detail to see if it's something I want to tackle, or just bring the knuckle to a machine shop, etc.

But alas, the pictures are missing. Does someone have pictures of the wheel bearing replacement process they can post?

I can get the knuckle off, that's not a big deal, just the pics of the process would be nice.

 

thanks.

I do have like 3 pics... its really simple...

 

But the pics I have are of each side of the knuckle and of the bearings, not the actual process... :/

 

Its on my facebook, so Id have to upload them, but I can if you wanna shoot me a PM or something.

I've done enough axle replacements I've seen the outside of the knuckle enough to go blue in the face.

And the bearings are just sealed ball bearing type deals, right?

 

So basically, it's a sealed bearing pressed in up against a lip. Then the floating spacer thing, then another bearing pressed in the other side?

And then shove a seal on each end.

Can it possibly be that simple?

 

 

Thing is, this pos is my DD and I have very little tools. So I can't fudge it up.

Once it has a new axle, bearing and clutch. It won't be a pos anymore....

Edited December 2, 201114 yr by 987687

the GL's are easy to do bearings on - had done my old 89 GL wagon a few times over the course of 8 yrs of ownership - fronts and rears.

I imagine it's easy, heard it's easier than rears, which I wrote a guide for.

 

But I like seeing pictures of something before I do it... Dunno why, just do. So still in for pics.

Yes it is truely that easy. Once I get the knuckle off, I use a brass drift and a hammer to pop the bearings out of the knuckle. Then I use a bearing driver to push the new ones in. One tip though, leave the spacer a bit loose (don't press the bearings in all the way, leave one out about 1/32" if that) as it will make getting the axle through easier.

Yes it is truely that easy. Once I get the knuckle off, I use a brass drift and a hammer to pop the bearings out of the knuckle. Then I use a bearing driver to push the new ones in. One tip though, leave the spacer a bit loose (don't press the bearings in all the way, leave one out about 1/32" if that) as it will make getting the axle through easier.

 

Good tip on leaving it loose. I hadn't seen that before.

 

I have no idea what a bearing driver is... I assume this is some type of threaded rod with a die on one end that fits the bearing, and a plate on the other? You thread the nut and it sucks the bearing into the knuckle?

The one with the die and rod. Got a nice 3.3lb hammer I use

 

You can also use a 2x4 too. I used to them that way.

Also make sure to pack the bearings good too.

also I froze my bearings over night, once I had the old ones out the new ones popped right in. a mechanic I know at a local "other dealer" was afraid to try getting the bearing sout for me so I gave in and just tapped them out my self.

 

just be sure to tap on the outer ring not the internal bits.

 

you can do it all before lunch if you get started early and are prepared.

If you feel like you can do it yourself, then do it yourself. Believe me, the last thing you want some rinky-dink shop to mess up is your wheel bearings. My front driver's side bearing was bad since I bought the car (87 GL) and I had a shop do the work. I gave them a tub of mobil 1 bearing grease and told them to dump the whole thing in there while they did the job. Well, my bearing is shot already (10k later) and the whole hub assembly is loose. I just keep tightening up the castle nut and put a new pin in till I get the money to take care of the job.

 

The bearings got so bad they wore out my hub, so now I need a new hub. Anybody? Anybody? haha

I actually printed that thread off in color with pics so I could use it. I will see if I can scan it in for you and email it to you. PM me your email if you want.

I actually printed that thread off in color with pics so I could use it. I will see if I can scan it in for you and email it to you. PM me your email if you want.

 

That would be awesome! PM on the way

thanks!

just in the process of doing my rx front bearings and they got pressed out by the boys at work and pro press the new ones back in once i find somewhere open to by some from

 

fyi the 1983 rx front bearings are ( 6207 ) and the seals are ( pr6645 )

Got the pm's will try to send them out tomorrow morning.

These are rediculously simple. Drift out the old ones with a brass punch and BFH. Drift (on the outer race only) in the new one's and reassemble. They are 6207 ball bearings - you can get 6207-2RS bearings that are pre-greased and sealed for life.

 

If you are really high-speed you can go with 7207 bearings and get axial thrust capability (IMHO the hubs were originally designed to use 7207's). May or may not have to add a .001" shim ring to the inner race spacer to get the right amount of preload on the bearings. The shim dropped our hub temp readings about 20* after a freeway run.

 

GD

Got it scanned in and made into a PDF file. 987687, the email you sent me did not work, and l75eya you need to send me an email address if you still want it. If there is a way I can post it on the board, let me know that way people can keep from emailing it around.

Thanks man!

 

Oh, and I like the greasy finger prints, adds a nice touch

Edited December 4, 201114 yr by 987687

These are rediculously simple. Drift out the old ones with a brass punch and BFH. Drift (on the outer race only) in the new one's and reassemble. They are 6207 ball bearings - you can get 6207-2RS bearings that are pre-greased and sealed for life.

 

If you are really high-speed you can go with 7207 bearings and get axial thrust capability (IMHO the hubs were originally designed to use 7207's). May or may not have to add a .001" shim ring to the inner race spacer to get the right amount of preload on the bearings. The shim dropped our hub temp readings about 20* after a freeway run.

 

GD

 

So if I get the sealed for life ones, I don't need to screw around with getting grease everywhere, I just pop the bearings in and run with it? That would be cool.

Is it easier to remove the knuckle, or remove the axle... I guess that depends on if my ball joint wants to come out.

I should find out the OD of the bearing so I can make something to drive it back in before I take it apart, I have access to grinding, oxy/ace, etc, etc. So I can surely make something just smaller than the OD no problem.

 

Also, wicked interesting on the taper bearings, I prefer that kind of bearing anyway. Some time when I have more time I'll definitely screw around with that, I'll put that in my list of "things to make my car better".

Thanks man!

 

Oh, and I like the greasy finger prints, adds a nice touch

 

No problem, glad I could help.

Just my 2 cents. I'm a noob at auto mechanics and I replaced my front wheel bearings in about 3 hours with a press. Longest part was disassemble and reassemble. The way I did it maybe longer than other methods but I had a press to use. I removed everything up to axle and that as well. I took off the steering knuckle and pressed them out. Then put in the space, pressed one in, then pressed the other in and put new seals. Reassembled.

Edited December 9, 201114 yr by c0r3f1ght3r
typo

These are rediculously simple. Drift out the old ones with a brass punch and BFH. Drift (on the outer race only) in the new one's and reassemble. They are 6207 ball bearings - you can get 6207-2RS bearings that are pre-greased and sealed for life.

 

If you are really high-speed you can go with 7207 bearings and get axial thrust capability (IMHO the hubs were originally designed to use 7207's). May or may not have to add a .001" shim ring to the inner race spacer to get the right amount of preload on the bearings. The shim dropped our hub temp readings about 20* after a freeway run.

 

GD

 

So now that I'm home, I'm going to do this.

Where do you recommend getting the bearings from?

Also, how do I get to the inner race when pounding it out? It seems like you can only need the spacer ring on the inside... It's probably obvious when it's apart.

 

Also, I assume it can be done without removing the knuckle from the car, ya?