91leglift Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 91 legacy with bad bottom end from oil starvation. legacy is getting a 4 inch lift after engine build EJ25 short block from 98 forester with 30,000 miles on it EJ22 heads being rebuilt with: SS valves stock valve springs Deltacams 220 grind cams Porting the intake and exhaust Borla headers with custom 2 1/2 exhaust is there anything else i should do that i have overlooked that would go along well with this setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 You may want to talk with Delta, I seem to recall that the 220 designation was only for the turbo legacy cams. The non-turbo legacy cams had a different designation like 205 or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renob123 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Arbitrary numbers don't mean anything to me. When I order cams from them, I just ask for "torque cams" for the engine in question, and they always know what I meant. 2.25" exhaust seems to be the magic number for NA Subarus. That's what I'm running. While you're in there, it may be a good time to replace your mounts with Group N mounts. Engine and transmission first, and maybe the pitch stopper, depending on how much money you have. The point of the Frankenmotor is to get power on a budget. I'd rethink the port and polish, unless it's very inexpensive for you. The really low HP/$ ratio made me decide against it. Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 i have already talked to deltacams and he told me the 220 grind is the torque grind for this setup. the port and polish i was going to do myself so theres no cost there ill keep the 2.25 inch exhaust in mind. i was going to take it to a friend with a exhaust shop and im having him really make the final best choice engine and tranny mounts are a good idea ill have to look into getting some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 i have already talked to deltacams and he told me the 220 grind is the torque grind for this setup. Good deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renob123 Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I'd be interested in seeing the results of the PnP. I hear there are a lot of ways to mess it up and end up with poorer-performing heads. Unless you know what you're doing, I'd do some research beforehand. Also, with a PnP, you may want to ask Delta about their HP cam. The torque cam works great with a non-PnPed head. I'd be worried about the powerband of the torque cams not matching the powerband of the newly ported head. Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 The PnP may or may not happen since i have to get the car on the road ASAP when i get back in town. this is whats planned next for the little legacy wagon http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/bfg-06464_w.jpg there will be another post started on the lift and everything thats going with it in a few weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 just picked up the heads for my engine yesterday. if all goes to plan ill have the engine put together this afternoon and depending on how long it takes today ill try and drop the engine in tonight or in the morning. then ill have my baby back with a few more horses under the hood just in time to go snow camping over newyears. when i get my headers in about a month im going to dyno the car then we will all know how much HP this engine really produces. EJ25 block with 30,000 miles $195.00 Rebuilt Heads $733.00 DeltaCams 220 Torque Grind $165.00 Fel-Pro - Intake Manifold Gasket Set $11.99 Fel-Pro - Head Gasket $33.99 X2 Blue Magic - Headlight Lens Restorer $7.49 BrakeBest Select - Parking Brake Shoe $28.99 Sylvania XtraVision® - Headlight Bulb $14.99 BrakeBest Select Ceramic - Brake Pads $47.99 BrakeBest Select Ceramic - Brake Pads $52.99 Fel-Pro - Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set $9.99 Fel-Pro - Valve Cover Gasket Set $29.99 Into this car for $1380.40 so far and it still needs Borla Headers $331.95 Spec Stage 3 Clutch $386.10 After tax season its getting: D/R 5MT 6-8 inch lift 29 inch bfg mudterrains or 31 inch swampers a coworker has for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renob123 Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 just picked up the heads for my engine yesterday. if all goes to plan ill have the engine put together this afternoon and depending on how long it takes today ill try and drop the engine in tonight or in the morning. then ill have my baby back with a few more horses under the hood just in time to go snow camping over newyears. when i get my headers in about a month im going to dyno the car then we will all know how much HP this engine really produces. EJ25 block with 30,000 miles $195.00 Rebuilt Heads $733.00 DeltaCams 220 Torque Grind $165.00 Fel-Pro - Intake Manifold Gasket Set $11.99 Fel-Pro - Head Gasket $33.99 X2 Blue Magic - Headlight Lens Restorer $7.49 BrakeBest Select - Parking Brake Shoe $28.99 Sylvania XtraVision® - Headlight Bulb $14.99 BrakeBest Select Ceramic - Brake Pads $47.99 BrakeBest Select Ceramic - Brake Pads $52.99 Fel-Pro - Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set $9.99 Fel-Pro - Valve Cover Gasket Set $29.99 Into this car for $1380.40 so far and it still needs Borla Headers $331.95 Spec Stage 3 Clutch $386.10 After tax season its getting: D/R 5MT 6-8 inch lift 29 inch bfg mudterrains or 31 inch swampers a coworker has for sale I hope I catch you before you get into this too far. Almost everyone here recommends dealer head gaskets. Read up on that and seriously consider getting a refund on those Fel-Pros, especially with this engine combo. You can get Borla knock-offs off eBay for half that amount. I've had no problems with mine so far. "Stage 3" means nothing, but STIs putting down 400 torque will often stick with a dealer clutch for drive-ability and concerns for the transmission. If "Stage 3" is just their fancy name for "same as stock", then go for it. I would recommend against anything fancier than that, because it will cause problems and not solve any. Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 HOLY CRAP !!!!!! $733.00 for rebuilt heads....what the hell did they use...gold I just had heads done for a Frankein motor and it was 150 for both...new valve stem seals, 3 way valve grind, and machine surface....Even w/o my discount the public only gets charged a bit more...even if it is a hundred buck more (which its not) 733 is outrageous. You better use the OEM 2.5 Head gaskets otherwise your going to have a problem. And depending how much compression you want will depend if you use the single or double layer gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Ya when they told me how much for the heads i couldnt believe it. it was $380 just for the labor. they do good work but im not going to that shop again thats forsure. when they did the heads for my fiero it only cost me like $130 each and those were V6 heads. Its a little late to change the gaskets the engine is already put together so i guess if i have a problem ill be swapping out for the OEM gaskets. The spec stage 3 clutch is what they call there carbon ceramic clutch which im getting cause the car is going to be getting a 6-8 inch lift with 29-31 inch tires and the carbor ceramic clutch will take alot more abuse wheeling and just driving around town starting off from dead stop with the big tires. I run one of those clutches in my fiero and it doesnt drive much different than the stock clutch but never slips no matter how hard i am on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 lemme know how that turns out because I am looking to do the same on my 91 Lego. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 well it would turn out better if the car would start. ive got fuel, air, and spark so now its onto double checking the timing to make sure thats not the problem. Is there anything else i should check that might make it not fire up or is there anyone willing to help me get this started. ive been out of a car for a little while now and im running out of options to get rides to work i need to get this car on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) Have you verified power to the fuel pump, all wiring is correct.....oh and the crank position sensor. It won't turn over if its broken or faulty, seen a bad one just the other day on an ej22 going into an ea82 wagon that I'm wiring, most likely cause was some one pulling it off the wrong way and it broke. Go to a yard and get a new plug for it. Maybe even a sensor, and solder the wires......dont use retarded butt splices. Edited December 30, 2011 by Suba9792 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Well given yours is a 91 odds are heat is the culprit with connectors. They are getting old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 My bet is the crank position sensor. It's right ontop the motor under the alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 well it would turn out better if the car would start. ive got fuel, air, and spark so now its onto double checking the timing to make sure thats not the problem. Is there anything else i should check that might make it not fire up or is there anyone willing to help me get this started. ive been out of a car for a little while now and im running out of options to get rides to work i need to get this car on the road Are you *sure* you have fuel? Make sure you have power at the injectors and plug in the green test connectors - the fuel pump and radiator fan should cycle repeatedly with them connected and the ignition on. Make sure you put the timing belt on correctly and that the cam pullies are on the correct side. With EJ's - if you have spark your sensors are working but you may not have spark at the right time. That would be due to cam/crank misalignment which is typically the timing belt. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flight_of_pain Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 If you haven't checked already make sure you didn't swap the fuel send and return hoses where they slip onto the metal sections. I just fixed a no start issue for a guy with a rebuild that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 good suggestion. the hose from the filter goes to the top most of the 3 fittings. the other 2 then become self evident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Well i feel like a *********************. It was the timing that was off i was in to much of a rush trying to get it together that i lined up the wrong marks for the timing. Its running now but i have a little valve noise from trying to start it with the timing off. So here in a couple weeks im going to pull the heads and get the valves fixed that i bent. But on the good side the engine pulls hard even with a couple bent valves. Now all it needs is headers then ill get it on the dyno and actually see how much power this combo has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I'm no expert, but I doubt the engine would "pull hard" with bent valves. Maybe it's the lifters ticking instead ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 91 heads are going to have HLAs so it may take a while to pump them up and get them fully functional. let it idle for a while. they should quiet down. i have done two ej22 swaps w/ HLAs, and both times i thought there was something wrong with the new engines. but in time they are both fine and both still running strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 im going with collapsed hla's. did you pump them in oil before installing or did the machine shop do that? If they didn't oil soak them/pump them, then they are down and "should" pump up before too long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91leglift Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 ok i have no idea about the lifters that could be it. ive just been told if you try and start one of these engines with the timing off the valves will hit the piston and get bent. i guess i will just replace my seal i forgot to on the cam support so i stop dripping oil and see what happens with the lifter/maybe valve noise. Other than some noise and a little oil leak she runs like a top im very happy i went with this than just a stock 2.2 rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Maybe I missed it reading through, but which 2.5 head gaskets did you go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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