I took the '99 Forester today for an oil change. Actually, I left it the night before. The shop manager called and remarked at cold start, "It takes a little long," "Could be the fuel pump, but we have do diagnostics." He admitted it starts fine when its warm. So, I declined to have it checked. The car does have close to 200K and I don't mind replacing it if indeed it is that time. What do y'all think?? Yes very cold it takes maybe 3 seconds to start at most (and I need to change the belt tensioner if that matters, although it is not dragging at this point). Warm, it is bang on at start. The tune is perfect and recently done, along with many fluids. The entire engine was rebuilt about 60K or so.

 

I guess what I am asking is should I try the wait and see approach or go ahead and replace it in the next few months? I really don't like to pay flat bed towing when I don't have to. On the other hand, if it is the pump will it give a little more glaring report before plays out?

I took the '99 Forester today for an oil change. Actually, I left it the night before. The shop manager called and remarked at cold start, "It takes a little long," "Could be the fuel pump, but we have do diagnostics." He admitted it starts fine when its warm. So, I declined to have it checked. The car does have close to 200K and I don't mind replacing it if indeed it is that time. What do y'all think?? Yes very cold it takes maybe 3 seconds to start at most (and I need to change the belt tensioner if that matters, although it is not dragging at this point). Warm, it is bang on at start. The tune is perfect and recently done, along with many fluids. The entire engine was rebuilt about 60K or so.

 

I guess what I am asking is should I try the wait and see approach or go ahead and replace it in the next few months? I really don't like to pay flat bed towing when I don't have to. On the other hand, if it is the pump will it give a little more glaring report before plays out?

 

 

Try to get a good feel for the difference in how long it takes to start when cold vs warm at present.

 

Then, when cold, try just cycling the key on/off 4-5 times. Listen to detect the fuel pump coming on for a second each time. Then start the car. If it does start like when it's warm, probably means the fuel pressure IS leaking down over time/when cold. Then, decisions can be made about where to look for a problem.

Watch out, that guy is fishing for work.

 

Let me ask you this...when you start it, do you pause in run for a couple seconds before going to start, or do you just turn the key all the way to start immediately?

Preventitive maintainence is a good thing and the fuel pump mileage is getting up there,but,replacing it on the basis of the evidence presented borders on the ridiculous,IMO.

 

If the fuel pump check valve leaked,hot starts would be a problem along w/cold ones.Even if it is leaking,it is not really a problem.

 

If the fuel pump was worn enough to have low pressure,there would be symptoms other than slightly long cranking w/cold.

 

I have to wonder why your shop bothered telling you this but didn`t take the 30 seconds necessary to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and "do diagnostics".I`m neither impressed nor surprised.($$$$$$)

 

You can buy a gauge for $20 and do the "diagnostics" yourself.

Edited January 17, 201214 yr by naru

I never fix things until they are broken. Well I take that back. I replaced a glow plug harness on my Jetta and later found out one plug was bad. But I don't mind doing that on a car that has 240K miles on it.

Try to get a good feel for the difference in how long it takes to start when cold vs warm at present.

 

Then, when cold, try just cycling the key on/off 4-5 times. Listen to detect the fuel pump coming on for a second each time. Then start the car. If it does start like when it's warm, probably means the fuel pressure IS leaking down over time/when cold. Then, decisions can be made about where to look for a problem.

 

This.

 

Leakdown could be through the regulator, injectors, or the pump.

 

Extended cold start crank could be a lean (pump) or a rich (the other items) condition.

 

Dave

Taking 3 to 30 seconds to start the motor does not sound like a fuel pump. If it were bad, it would take more cranking then that to get it started. Plus, you would have drive ability problems.

 

How long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? New plugs can create faster starts.

Tune with plugs this past summer, fuel filter yesterday. Wires are about two- three years old. The injectors were replaced OEM around 30K ago. Not able to detect sound from the pump because, several years ago the interior was sound insulated (another reason I really don't want to get into it). The fuel filler tube was replaced last summer and I ran Techron through it afterward. About every six months it gets a bottle of seafoam to fuel. Yes I have given the key a few seconds before I turn it to start every time.

There is a lot of competition for car repairs around here. That is why generally speaking, I use this kinda shop for oil changes and filters.

Thanks for the pointers, this is what I was thinking to.

I would question the fuel pressure regulator before anything else.

 

Cold days things dont want to start including me.

 

If you did not complain about it, let it go. it can be a number of things or nothing at all.

 

Sounds like someone may have a boat payment due.