I posted earlier about needing to replace the spindle knuckle on my 99 OBW. I bought a unit from a yard yesterday for $75. When you live in a large city the cost is more. Now installed, the new knuckle works fine.

 

Special thanks to grossgary and davebugs. I had never done this job before, so was kind of in the dark as to the particulars. I took grossgary's advise about replacing the ball joint with a new unit, vs trying to separate the old one, without damaging the rubber boot. The old ball joint was in really tight, so the pickle fork ruined the rubber boot in a hurry. A new ball joint was going to be needed. Glad I purchased one, and had it readily at hand.

 

In the future, I won't ever mess with replacing a bad bearing. It is so much easier just replacing the spindle knuckle. The only question is making sure you get a good unit from a yard.

 

Also, I nearly got sold a unit for the left side, when I asked for a unit for the right side. Something about the left side unit just didn't look right when paying for it, so checking into it with yard guy, he realized his mistake, and got me the correct right side. You just really have to watch what you are getting at a yard.

 

Thanks again guys!......best regards, Rooster2, (Larry)

Glad it went well.

 

I find it easier on the front and the back to do it this way.

Good report, and glad the fix is done! I haven't had any wheel bearing issues yet but will keep this option in mind when it happens.

I've done both and personally - for my money a new bearing is the way to go. Cheaper and done correctly it will last the rest of the life of the car.

 

Pickle forks are silly. If you want to pop a ball joint without damaging the boot - spend the $16 on one of these:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html

 

I've used this dozens of times and it's never failed and never ripped a boot.

 

GD

Wait, are you guys saying that if a front wheel bearing is failing you recomend replacing the steering knuckle/wheel hub as an assembly with a used one from a salvage yard?

Wait, are you guys saying that if a front wheel bearing is failing you recomend replacing the steering knuckle/wheel hub as an assembly with a used one from a salvage yard?

 

That's what THEY are saying. It's not what I'm saying :-p

 

GD

I wouldn't do it, unless I was in a bind out of town or something. If I can pull a hub, I can sure as hell take it to a local shop and have the bearing pressed in/out

If I can pull a hub, I can sure as hell take it to a local shop and have the bearing pressed in/out

 

I do them with the knuckle on the car - no messing with ball joints, camber alignment, etc. No dealing with yards, pulling used crap off in the cold, or phoning around - just buy a bearing and some seals that are both in-stock at my supplier for about $45 for all of it and install them. Takes about an hour total. Done and done.

 

GD

I "rent" a front end service set from Advance.

 

I don't always have access to a press. And nothing would piss me off more than having a new bearing go bad because it was pressed in wrong.

 

For a DIY replacing the stub is just easier. And I get a 6 month warranty on the parts I get delivered to me from the JY.

 

I know of NEW bearings that have gone bad before 6 months. Then you gotta wonder if the nuckle got buggered anyways.

 

In short if you don't have all the tools (and I'd say some experience) including a press or hub tamer or whatever the swapout is very easy.

 

Personally I used to do a lot of car work and still couldn't justify a tire machine, balancer, and press. Partly due to the space they take up.

 

Will a used nuckle outlast a properly installed quality bearing - NO. Is the process very simple to swap - YES.

I can see the temptation to swap the knuckle. But I really think that the same amount of time spent looking for a used one could be spent finding a local shop that has a hub tamer, press, etc and the know-how to properly install the bearing for you if you bring them the knuckle. I will PROPERLY install any EJ bearing for anyone local that brings me a knuckle and new bearings/seals for $20 and a 6 pack of Rolling Rock.

 

Or as you said you can rent the hub tamer type tools from various auto parts suppliers. They want to sell you the bearings and seals and are happy to have you leave a deposite on the tool and then bring it back and refund your deposit when you are done. The instructions are simple and there's write-up's online with pictures.

 

GD

I had not planned on going the JY approach of securing a spindle/knuckle. I have a Harbour Freight Hub Tamer, and had purchased a new hub, bearing, and seals to replace the bearing. However, upon dis-assembly, the new bearing I installed last summer was trash, and falling apart. At that point, I was sure something was bad with the spindle/knuckle, resulting from the problem with the earlier broken end on the half shaft. A new knuckle is dealer only, and I didn't want to wait around several days for the dealer to get one in from their warehouse. So, I decided to go the JY approach, and hope for the best. I got the part in the morning, and had it installed by night fall, while the weather was still decent to work outside. No more screwing around with a car torn down on my driveway.

I will PROPERLY install any EJ bearing for anyone local that brings me a knuckle and new bearings/seals for $20 and a 6 pack of Rolling Rock.

 

 

 

GD

 

 

I wish you were in Wisconsin!...-K (That's worth at least a case here!)

I wish someone near me was the type to swap the knuckle- I could get it from them cheap, put in a new bearing, then swap in the freshly-bearing'ed knuckle in about an hour!

 

Dave

I wish you were in Wisconsin!...-K (That's worth at least a case here!)

 

Heh. I DON'T wish I was in Wisconsin..... though there is a lot of Soobs there I hear. Soobs and snow ... and rust .

 

GD

I do them with the knuckle on the car - no messing with ball joints, camber alignment, etc. No dealing with yards, pulling used crap off in the cold, or phoning around - just buy a bearing and some seals that are both in-stock at my supplier for about $45 for all of it and install them. Takes about an hour total. Done and done.

 

GD

 

Care to share how you pull that off exactly? Pics of the specialized tools that you use, or maybe even a description? Links to tools etc? Something? I could really use the help.

 

Does it involve a freezer and a heat gun/torch? What's your secret? I won't tell, promise.

I know of NEW bearings that have gone bad before 6 months. Then you gotta wonder if the nuckle got buggered anyways.

 

 

 

This happens when people install the new bearing as a unit, ussually without any new grease.

 

The packing grease is little more than vaseline for preventing rust in storage.

 

to properly press these bearings, you seperate them and press each piece by it's race.........not the whole unit slammed in as that presses on the rollers.

 

seperating the 3 parts also allows for a proper grease packing.

 

Done right, there is no better way and probably ends up the same price or cheaper if you can press yourself.

Care to share how you pull that off exactly? Pics of the specialized tools that you use, or maybe even a description? Links to tools etc? Something? I could really use the help.

 

Does it involve a freezer and a heat gun/torch? What's your secret? I won't tell, promise.

 

For the fronts, you still have to disconnect enough so you can pull the axle out of the hub. I hear you can do this by disconnecting the strut from the knuckle, haven't done it that way myself yet.

 

After you get the axle out, you need the 'cheap' harbor freight front-axle service tool or the expensive OTC hub-tamer (both screw-type presses) to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing, and to press the hub out/in of the old/new bearing.

 

I have heard either of those will work, when I did mine with a 20T press it took darn well near all 20 tons to press out the bearing. Not sure what the on-car screw tool can develop by way of force.

 

Dave

My bearings and seals from subaru came pre-greased, and have lasted over 100,000 miles without having added grease.

 

The bearings did look under-greased, but were properly greased with appropriate grease. bearings from elsewhere, who knows.

 

Dave