i need to cut some more decals......we have initiates and my supply is low. we pulled a 30hr week last weekend to get a fellas car up and going proper. he stuck out the whole time and busted his posterior. side note: my first complete ea82 build runs super duper good:D

 

 

 

I digress........

busted his posterior.

 

Mom always told me to sit up straight, she said it was good posterior.

posture, pasture, posterior.... all the same thing. your ma was right

Is there a way to inspect the clutch disc without really doing anything? I would like a visual of it, as I was thinking about taking the car to a show about 14 miles from me in the coming weeks. I don't want to end up without a clutch though lol.

other than checking adjustment level idk how to look at the disc....pull motor?

Is there only one drain plug on the front Diff/Gearbox? And do you fill it thru the dipstick hole like normal?

 

I want to change the gear oil so its fresh and am thinking of running Lucas synthetic in it, what weight should I run for all year driving? I have a small grind going into 3rd most of the time.

u have to pull the motor to check the the clutch disk, my dad changed my clutch for me(stupid home work when i was still in school before summer vaction!)he was able to change the clutch without taking the motor out completely he just took out the radiator, split the motor and trany apart with a jack under the motor, and he was able to change it without any problems

I agree that sounds like a good idea.

 

Ok just for the sake of conversation, if I were to do this, I think I understand how to wire it.

 

I would Have a lead come from the batt, to a Relay. Whatever #

Then have the Positive leads from the original High-beam wiring (Tie both together) and have that hook to the relay. Whatever #

Then run a lead from the relay to the new lights.

I'm forgetting what to do with the original ground though..?

 

Basically, hook the lights up, like I did with the Hella Supertones. I tapped into the original horn wiring, ran that to the relay, then ran a lead from the batt, I then ran a new + lead from the relay to the horns. And grounded the horns to the chassis.

 

Am I on the right track, or no?

 

Just like the Baka light harness on Scott's car. You can essentially copy the harness. The real lays will be grounding at the headlight sockets (switch) and draw from the battery.

I cant figure out this Weber, my Dad doesn't even understand why its acting the way it is.

 

So, we adjusted it to where it idles smooth, no bogging or cutting out under free revv. It drives awesome, but there is one issue I can not fix no matter how we adjust the carb. While at speed, with the pedal pressed just before load (Coasting without decelerating) It bucks non stop, but once you give the motor a little bit of load, it clears up and drives smooth.

 

Engine braking is smooth and no bucking, I have great, smooth pull up to 4000rpm (Can't really go beyond that as the clutch starts to slip)

 

So slight to moderate bucking just before load while at speed, the bucking is right around 1900-2100rpm ONLY.

 

My dad thinks it might be a defective carb, I dunno. How often are true Webers defective?

 

I know the adaptor plate does not line up flush with the barrel of the carb, there is a little lip, vs a smooth transition. The throttle plates do not hit anything.

 

Can the problem be with the adaptor plate?

 

This little bucking issue is the only problem I have with the carb now, whats funny is, it ran like this with the stock Hitachi too.

not the adapter plate. if it ran exactly the same way (bucking-wise) with the hitchi, then I'd start looking at the following:

 

check the vac advance on your disty. if you hook a mity-vac up to it, will it hold vacuum?

 

you really only need 2 vac lines. one from manifold to brake booster. one from Disty to front port on weber. make sure all others are plugged or not in use. you may have one vac line coming from your passenger side tower area (behind) to your intake, and it would be used to run hvac controls.

 

any side to side or up/down play in the disty shaft?

 

were both fuel filters replaced?

To answer you question, nope. There is no play in the rotor shaft, I've read about how the bushings like to wear out, but so far, mine are still good.

 

I have not checked the vacuum advance yet, what do I have to do, in order to check it?

 

As for vac lines, I have the vac advance, Booster and the HVAC. Booster and HVAC run off the intake ports, the Vac advance it running off the port in front on the Weber.

 

As for Fuel Filters, I changed the one in the engine bay, but the one by the Fuel pump is unknown. Perhaps I will change that as well when I get paid.

 

DISCOVERY:

 

The bucking will happen at any RPM, but still only before engine load.

Scratch that.

 

I just popped the cap off, and sure as sh*t, I have about 1/8-1/4" of play up and down, and it moves side to side pretty much.

 

So now what?

 

Edited August 12, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

new disty.

 

Sorry.

 

 

You "can" re-bush the one you have, but it takes considerable work and needs some specialized tools.

I probably know the answer to this, but can you buy a New electro. IGN disty anywhere? If you can in fact still get a genuine one from Subaru, anyone know how much one is?

 

Lol, its kinda one thing after another with this car. I got rid of the Legacy for that reason

 

 

Ah well.

No new ones. All are re-mans, which is fine. They use the original case and shaft, all else is new.

 

I did price a NEW one from Subaru a few years ago...

 

It was discontinued, but they could still give me the MSRP.

 

It was nearly $700:D

LOL! I could EJ swap it for that much :-p

 

So I take it that the remans can be had for cheaper? And would be available at most part houses?

 

How different is an EA82 disty from a 1985-87 carb'ed motor? I bet its a totally different animal.

Yep, available thru parts houses.

 

I do most of my shipping at Rockauto.

 

Im running a A1-Cardone unit in mine. Seems to be doing fine. Ive got about 30k on it now. About $120

 

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=31810&p=rock

 

 

Im pretty sure the EA82 units are totally different

Cool, I just looked at Rockauto and at the A1. Does it come with the Electronic parts or no? Picture doesn't show them, but you can't always rely on pictures

 

At least its not $300 as I was expecting.

They are ready to drop in. Ignition module is included.

Perfect, I guess this will be the next step instead of the clutch.

 

I will keep the original so I can have it rebuilt or rebuild it my self when I get bored.

Join the USMB chatroom!

http://www.frost-technologies.com/chat/

So I looked in the FSM about installing the Distributor.

 

Set motor to #1 cylinder @ TDC, Line up mark on Distributor gear with mark on Distributor body, install distributor.

 

Whats the best way to make sure motor is at TDC? Should I just pull Plug #1 stick my finger in the bore until I feel the piston come about? (Turning crank with ratchet)

 

Are there still timing marks on the Flywheel like the EA82?

Yep, pretty much as you wrote.

 

You can set the flywheel mark at 8* and drop disty in so that the clampbolt is centered in the slot.

Gives the advantage of going for more timing advance.

 

I've ran the Weber carb with timing at 12* and 16* on different engines.

So it's basically what your particular engine wants for timing.

Cool, sounds easy.

You do need to make sure that the rotor is pointing to the #1 tower position on the cap when you drop it in.

 

Put a mark on the disty housing where #1 is before removing cap. Take the cap off, drop disty in, repalce cap/wires.

Start it up, warm it up, set timing.

 

You may have to readjust idle speed.