Indeed I'll make sure the rotor is pointing at #1. The two markings that are supposedly on the Disty body and Rotor gear that you line up should also point the rotor at #1 cylinder, yeah?

 

Either way, I'll get it in and working!

even one tooth on that will make the motor run like crap be careful( mine came like that luckly my dad found the problem and it stopped sputtering an gained 1/4 more horse power:headbang:)

Well these were from the weekend.

 

Ordered the A-1 Cardone Disty from Rockauto for $133 shipped with 5% discount and 2-day shipping. Awesome!

 

Maybe my car will finally run correctly.

 

check the vac advance on your disty. if you hook a mity-vac up to it, will it hold vacuum?

 

 

 

I have not checked the vacuum advance yet, what do I have to do, in order to check it?

 

 

not that it matters since you ordered a reman one, but you may just want to check this anyway, just so you know... and if the vac is good, you can keep if it's the same as your new one for backup, or sell the advance part if it's different...

Yeah I'll check it anyway, I'm gonna probably keep the whole original disty and see about having it rebuilt sometime, TomR linked me to a company who does it, Philbin(something) About $70 to have it rebuilt I guess.

So I picked up a set of heated Outback seats from a '96. Blue and Gray in nice shape, might retro fit these into the GL sometime or something.

 

I got the switches and everything.

Edited August 17, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

I was looking at the seat brackets on the Outback seats, I will need to mod them or reshape them to work with the original mounting holes, unless I want to make new ones.

 

Anyone have a picture of new gen seats in an EA82 car? Just for eye candy...

 

My disty will be hear tomorrow, and I will probably drop it in then.

Check this BS out. I got the New A1 Cardone Disty today, put it in and *Crank crank crank, nothing* Triple checked TDC (Compression stroke) and Alinement marks. Reinstalled again, same thing. I put the old one back in, fired right up. I have zero power coming from the pickup on the new one.

 

Called Rockauto, shipped it back via Fedex and should have another one later this week. What BS.

that sucks its probably like my sisters geo metro we got a brand new alternator from napa for it then when we put it on and tried to start it up nothing opened the hood and the alternator smelled like smoke went back in to napa and got other one, had to go to another napa 50 miles away though:banghead:

It happens.

 

The guy rebuilding it probably never bench bench tested the dizzy module before installing.

Yeah, we'll see how the next one is. better work!

 

So I tried swapping in the Outback seats today, I am going to use the original GL tracks.

 

Heres the rub, The Outback seat base/frame is 1" wider than the GL, so I need to make a steel plate to bolt onto the frame, than drill holes so the GL tracks will bolt up to that.

 

The Outback seats are a tight fit between the center console and Door Pillar, but I love how they feel, very firm.

 

Anyone have photos of EJ seats in an EA81 chassis?

I have a diagram for the adapters needed for Legacy seats in an EA series body.

Thought they were EA82 seats to EA81 body, but they're for Legacy seats.

Can send it your way.

 

 

edit;

Apparently. I haven't saved your email addy.

PM me it and I'll send file.

Edited August 22, 201213 yr by TomRhere
added onfo

PM'ed ya.

 

So this is what I now have. I removed the Outback seat brackets, and am left with the seat frame. The driver side is a Adjustable hight seat (Left) so the frame is a little different than the passenger side (Right)

 

 

 

What I am going to do or am thinking of doing, is get some flat stock steel, Maybe 1/8" or a little thicker. Cut it out into the same shape of the Outback seat framing, Drill 4 holes to mount it, using the original welded nuts. Then, drill holes so I can mount the GL seal rails onto the steel plate (Adaptor plate if you will) Everything will be marked and drilled before mounting.

 

And done! The drivers seat will still be adjustable and look factory.

 

What gauge steel should I use? I want it solid.

 

They are in excellent condition, and for $20 it was a deal. Just need to give them a good cleaning.

 

 

 

Edited August 22, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

xbeerd made up this wiring diagram so I can change the corner lights to Turn signals. This video shows whats involved per one side.

 

 

Put the new disty in, this time it works! Its a Partsmaster now WTF? Either way, its still the original casted housing and such. Car runs better than it did, I still have some bucking, but now its not really at speed. If I'm on the interstate, it doesn't really buck, but if I'm doing 45mph it'll buck a little with slight load on motor.

 

So, I dunno. Perhaps its the clutch? I still need to change all that stuff out.

 

I set the timing to 20* BTDC or close to it, it runs a lot better than it did, and wow, its not as noisy now. Didn't know the disty was making that much ruckus.

Put the new disty in, this time it works! Its a Partsmaster now WTF? Either way, its still the original casted housing and such. Car runs better than it did, I still have some bucking, but now its not really at speed. If I'm on the interstate, it doesn't really buck, but if I'm doing 45mph it'll buck a little with slight load on motor.

 

So, I dunno. Perhaps its the clutch? I still need to change all that stuff out.

 

I set the timing to 20* BTDC or close to it, it runs a lot better than it did, and wow, its not as noisy now. Didn't know the disty was making that much ruckus.

 

stock timing is ~8* BTDC. With a weber I would end up somewhere netween 10-13. 20 seems a bit excessive...

OH!? I knew 20 didn't sound right, have new clue where I pulled that figure from.

 

Hmm, ok. I will adjust it and see how it goes.

 

I'm a little rusty on adjusting ignition timing. You do have to mark the number on the flywheel where you want the timing set, yeah? So If I mark the 10* spot, line that up with the arrow on the bellhousing, it should be at 10* BTDC, right?

 

My books don't really give a good explanation, even the FSM is vague. And for some reason I have forgotten some of the steps.

20 is for the SPFI engines.

 

You have the steps wrote correctly.

 

They say to unhook ,and plug the vac line to the disty to set timing. I don't do so.

It's a ported vac source, no vac until throttle is opened more than when it's at idle.

AH, I have the EA82 memorized. Plus my FSM shows a list of Timing degrees, and I was looking at when the Intake valve opens, which is 20* BTDC. So, I made a big error lol.

 

So, what I am going to do is, Take the disty out (Again) turn motor to 8* BTDC on Compression stroke for #1 cyl. Then, line up the two dots on the disty, install disty, the rotor shaft shouldn't move, right? Cause every other time I installed it, the rotor would either be pointing a little after or a little before the marker lines I drew. I also had the motor set at 20* BTDC before. Oops.

 

So if I set it all at 8*, I should have enough advancement by turning the disty later on.

 

I should mention, before when I had the disty installed, it ran ok, but I ran out of Advancement and the timing was showing about 8* at full Advance.

 

So I will post back tomorrow with how it turns out...

ALSO, I noticed that the rotor shaft has a little bit of side to side play. It didn't have that when I first installed it about 60miles ago. WTF? Is this ok... Or did I get another dud?

Alright, I'm giving up on trying to time this motor. I set the motor to 8* BTDC, put disty back in, warmed up and check timing with a light. The timing marks are no where to be found unless I advance the hell out of the gun (30*+) If I set the gun to 8* I see no timing marks.

 

The car runs ok, still bucks like always. So I'm lost. Coil or Clutch issue perhaps?

 

My hips are killing me from driving the GL all Friday night.

What are the chances I could sell the GL for $2,000? It runs and drives, will need a clutch sooner or later, still needs the rear quarters welded in. I'm running out of steam for this car, and I'm not fond on how cramped it really is.

 

Anyone interested?

dont give up now, youre almost there! and ya, you might get 2k from the right person but its kinda a lot of dough too. i mean for 2k you can buy lots of good cars. i hope it gets easier soon, we all want to see that thing done, at wcss next year:Flame:

Alright, I'm giving up on trying to time this motor. I set the motor to 8* BTDC, put disty back in, warmed up and check timing with a light. The timing marks are no where to be found unless I advance the hell out of the gun (30*+) If I set the gun to 8* I see no timing marks.

 

The car runs ok, still bucks like always. So I'm lost. Coil or Clutch issue perhaps?

 

My hips are killing me from driving the GL all Friday night.

 

You are disconnecting and plugging the vac line to the dizzy, right?