Car is a 1995 Subaru Legacy L Outback 2.2L EJ22 5 Speed Manual.

 

126K miles.

 

The only way I can describe the transmission is "rough".

 

The shifter linkage is definitely worn. And I feel like second gear is getting worn out.

 

Sometimes it is hard to put the car into reverse.

 

Every time I try to put the car into a gear I feel like it "clicks" into gear. I can feel a strong click as the car goes into gear. It seems pretty normal, but I can't help but think it should feel more buttery.

 

The shift from first to second always makes me cringe. It grinds maybe every 1 out of 40 shifts. So not too often, but enough to be concerning. I understand it is very expensive to replace second gear/all of the syncros. sp?

 

I was thinking about figuring out how to throw a six speed manual transmission in there, but I realized that it's nowhere near as simple as bolting on just a new transmission. There are a few other parts that need to be done too like the driveshaft and differential.

 

I'm redoing my exhaust in a few weeks and decided I might give replacing the shifter linkage a go. I'd like to put in a short shifter too.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions about what I should do with my situation? Is there a place to find cheap, perfectly working 5 speed Subaru transmissions? I'm pretty sure cheap and perfectly working are contradictory words. But miracles happen I guess.

 

I should probably stick with replacing the linkage and calling it a day. It is a 16 year old car after all.

local junkyards would have those 5 speeds cheap.... i literally just bought one for my 95 legacy wagon to do a 5 speed swap and for that and the differential i paid $350 out the door. 200k on it but i was able to drive it first and it was smoooooth.

 

good luck!!!

If you're having a hard time shifting into all gears, make sure that your clutch is disengaging all the way. It sounds like your clutch might be dragging a bit.

At a complete stop. If you push in the clutch and leave it in for a while to let the tranny slow down. Then slowly shift into reverse, does it grind at all?

 

Where in the pedal throw does your clutch engage? If it's engaging right off the floor, you probably have an adjustment issue.

 

But if your transmission is getting tired, they aren't hard to find. I bought a 5speed, rear end, and driveshaft with 100k miles for $150.

I want to say that second is commonly ground on occasion. I bounce mine every now and then when power shifting, don't think its even near 1/40 shifts. More like 1/100 shifts, but I spend most of my time in 3rd-5th.

 

Try slowing down your shift times and use only two fingers to shift so you aren't putting as much force on the shifter to get it to go into gear. It will slide into gear more so then slamming it into gear.

 

My trans doesn't like going into reverse all the time either. If it really doesn't then try putting it in first and then into reverse(I've heard that helps).

 

I don't believe anyone makes a short shifter for anything older then '97 but I may be wrong.

Tsktsktsk no one wants to keep things simple?

 

YOur bushings are shot, nothing wrong with the linkage itself.

 

Just replace the bushings in the shift linkage and your done. I think the performance places have performance bushings for the shifters.

When was the last time you changed the gear oil? Or even checked the level?

I changed the gear oil about 1000 miles ago with the oil. I used redline manual trans oil. Found it on amazon for a reasonable price. I was expecting miracles but didn't get any really.

 

My clutch has a lot of play near the floor so I think it's adjusted alright.

 

My shifter is loose(sloppy/bad/has a lot of play) when pulled towards the middle of first and second gear, but is tight(good) between fifth and reverse. I couldn't get to the bushings without pulling exhaust out. I was able to replace two bushings but not the other two that were farther back. Maybe replacing those other two bushings will make my car shift better? It was just way too crowded under there and I didn't have all of the right tools. I also couldn't find a good tutorial of how to get the thing apart.

You can get the rear one at the base of the shifter by removing the shifter surround and boot and working from the top. The ones down at the transmission are the hard ones to replace because of that goddamned roll pin in a roll pin and the shifter yoke seizes to the shifter shaft most of the time. If you get all the bushings replaced, the shifter will feel much better.

 

Hard to go into reverse is normal, just let the car roll back or forward an inch and it will slip in. As for second grinding, just don't shift as fast. It's a 17 year old car, it will probably die of rust in CT before the transmission breaks.

Maybe replacing those other two bushings will make my car shift better? . . . I also couldn't find a good tutorial of how to get the thing apart.

 

Yup, new bushings will make a world of difference--makes shifting a real pleasure again!

 

Replacing bushings is a bit of a PITA but well worth it. Many helpful threads about the process in the past, try a "search" and you'll find a lot of good info. Helpful hint: Use "advanced search" and type in your key words (shifter bushings), then select "New Gen forum"--it'll zero in on just what you want.

 

Good luck.

the rearmost mainshaft berrig take all the load and is a weak berring is identifyed by a growl when car is idling and gos away when you push clutch have had to do two thiss year teardown change berring and reinstall cost about 1500 $ i have a used 3.9 ratio five speed from a 96 legacy rollover here with diff and axles and driveshaft 600$ 235000kms on it

I changed the gear oil about 1000 miles ago with the oil. I used redline manual trans oil.

What was the exact fluid you used?

Fixing the shifter bushings will improve the overall feel.

A writeup on Rs25.com http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t58760-diy-shifter-wobble-fix.html

Directed towards the rs thread tutorial linked above. Is it really only possible to replace 2 out of the 4 bushings? Should I buy the new joint?

You can replace all 4. I did on my '95 Legacy L, but it's been a few years and I can't remember all the details--other than there was nothing left of the original bushings when I got it apart!!!

There were two different styles of linkage. One is a "non-serviceable" type, with a post that has the end cold punched to hold it in. The other type just has bolts and you can remove them to replace the bushings.

I had one of the unserviceable ones and cut the smashed end off of the post and knocked it out with a punch. If you get a bolt from one of the serviceable types it fits right in place of the post, Then you can replace the bushings easily, don't even have to remove the PITA roll pins from selector rod.

Okay cool I think I'm going to pray I have a servicible one.

 

Hopefully I can get it done myself once I take the time to do it.

 

I have a few questions from those that have done this before

 

Do I really have to support the transmission by a jack once unbolt those two bars? It just seems like a pita but I guess I can do it. Is it dangerous? Do I need a transmission jack? All I have are drive up two ramps and a regular jack.

 

Did you have to unbolt any of the exhaust? I just fixed a nasty exhaust leak and my car feels brand new now. The difference is insane. I don't want to be messing with my exhaust to prolong the fix for as long as possible.

 

Thanks

Do an extensive search here and online to get all the pics and procedures before doing it, doing that helped me a lot!

 

On my 96 legacy brighton I just had to remove the shifter boot and console from inside, then I had to use a long punch to drive out the roll pin holding the linkage onto the tranny. I think having it in reverse helped a lot. I actually welded a long bolt onto the end of my punch, then it all just pulls out from the inside. The little spring is the tricky part.

Between the clutch being adjusted properly, the new bushings, and proper gear oil in the tranny(I used 75w-90 cheap gear oil with one quart of Rislone), my 294,000 mile car shifts as smooth as you can expect it to.

The exhaust doesn't have to be removed, it's nice to have a little extra room but far from necessary. The transmission cross member doesn't need to be moved either, I did mine without moving the mount. It might be easier with it out of the way though. The transmission might lower an inch or so with the mount removed but there are three other mounts holding it, you can push the end up with your hands if you decide you need the cross member out of the way.