lucasb Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hello, I just had my Duty C solenoid replaced, but asked the mechanic to look at the whole car before I paid for the fix. He identified a problem I thought I had. My front left brake is dragging or, getting stuck, and I can feel it when I drive. Yesterday driving it home from the shop was the worst. My front left tire area was smoking. My steering wheel has been pulsating when I stop for a few thousand miles now and the mechanic told me my front left pad was at 2mm. So I'm going to replace my front rotors and brake pads. My question is about the brake drag. The mechanic told me it was probably the slider pins getting stuck and I just need to pull those out, clean them, and regrease them. Sound right to you guys? I have seen videos on youtube and read countless how to pages, but this is my first car and first time fixing my own car so I have a few questions still. 1. What kind of grease should I use on the slider pins? And I understand I should use wool wire to clean them? 2. I should go out and buy brake cleaner spray, and spray that on the new rotor to remove packaging oil, right? 3. Are there any other parts I should grease up, etc, and what with? 4. Do you think the dragging brake is most likely the slider pin? Could it be a bigger issue? I've done a good amount of research, so I hope I'm not reposting someone else's question. I truly appreciate the help. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) I use this; based on a suggestion in another Forum. Put a little on the back of the pads, between any shims, slider pins and the pad ears/edges in addition to the pins. basically, every thing that might move, if even just a little shifting. I'd say your mechanic is likely correct about the pins being corroded/rusty. I like to wire brush my wheel studs and the back of my wheels to knock off any corosion. Rust is minimal down here though. If it's been a few years or a lot of miles since changed, might be a good time to flush out/replace the brake fluid too. And, I can recommend Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic as a very good aftermarket pad. Subaru pads are also excellent. An 'upgraded' pad for 'spirited' driving would be StopTech Street Performance. All on 'decent' quality solid rotors. others will chime in I'm sure. Edited March 27, 2012 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Take the time to torque the lug nuts. I usually go with 90 ft lbs. that will save your new rotors from warping, again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 90 pounds? Torque spec for my 2000 OBW is 72. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Over torqueing will warp rotors, and 90ft lbs is way too high. 95-99 Legacy and Impreza lug nut torque is 65. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I vote for stuck slide pins. this is easy to do. once you remove the caliper, use penetrant and steel wool to clean off any rust and crud, and use a silicone based lubricant for re-assembly. check fro rust around the piston boot as well. i like to put caliper lube on the boot where it meets the piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasb Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Thanks for the suggestions. The brake parts lubricant looks like something I should pick up. I still need a product to clean the storage oil off my new rotors too though, right? Brake fluid is probably a good idea. I'll start looking up how to do that myself. And you guys brought up a point I forgot. I don't have a torque wrench, but it sounds like I should start searching for one, are they necessary for the job? Much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 If you can't get the pins free then replacement calipers are your best bet. Some people say to buy new subaru calipers or rebuild your old ones. I recently bought all Centric parts to do the front brakes on my car. I've put about 800-1000 miles on them and the gain in braking power is impressive, you wouldn't believe the condition of the rotors that were on my car. Full setup with Centric C-tek pads and rotors with base rebuilt calipers was $125. If you fill the calipers with fluid and don't let your reservoir go empty switching the calipers a quick easy gravity bleed is all it takes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 You don't necessarily NEED a torque wrench, but it's a good idea to have one if you're doing a lot of work on the car. Although honestly, the only time I ever use mine is for head bolts and axle nuts. I used to use it on lug nuts but after a while you get a feel for whats "right". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I had a wheel fall off once while driving down the road. About 5 seconds after I looked over at the passenger and said "you feel something wobbling?". I have no idea to this day why that happened except that the lug nuts dis associated themselves from the wheel studs. So, I torque to at least 90 lbs on everything I own. I haven't warped a rotor yet. But, definitely best to follow factory recommended torque specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I had a wheel fall off once while driving down the road. About 5 seconds after I looked over at the passenger and said "you feel something wobbling?". I have no idea to this day why that happened except that the lug nuts dis associated themselves from the wheel studs. So, I torque to at least 90 lbs on everything I own. I haven't warped a rotor yet. But, definitely best to follow factory recommended torque specs. If you over torque you can stretch out the wheel studs and in turn stretch out the threads. This can lead to a wheel loosening up... or an ex girlfreind/wife doing it ... or the evil garden gnomes. But do only go to factory spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UMT Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 It appears that I have the same problem. Replacing rotors and used ceramic pads on my 99 Impreza Outback Sport and had a problem with the passenger side when I broke off a bolt getting the calipers off. Finally got the bolt out and replaced it but then noticed I still had a 'vibration, slight knocking' on occasion. Looking into the problem, I found that the rotor was very hot. Took it apart again and lubed everything up and seemed to correct the problem but OCCASIONALLY, it acts up again and I noticed today that the passenger side wheel is still hot while the drivers side isn't... I've double checked the entire assembly and everything seems tight. (steering, axels, etc) What do you guys think? Thanks in advance, UMT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 were inner and outer pads worn 'fairly' evenly on the old pads? Any sign of uneven wear now? just wondering if the rotors you got could be 'wrong' in some dimension and are dragging. Hard to ignore the slide pins being the most lilkely cause however. triple check them. I suppose the piston's dust boot could have been comprimised and the calipers need rebuilding..... Excessive heat there is bad - can even degrade wheel bearing grease I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 any update? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UMT Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 any update? Sorry, but I have to use the car every day and can only get to it on the weekends. Going to try to get at it this weekend and get ahold of the parts store. So far, the old rotor, the 'now old' ceramic shoes are working great but I'm not going to rely on them. I will keep the board posted.... UMT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.