Scotty1419 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) So my car has been missing lately when i idle in a parking for an extended amount of time when i go to pull out it misses for a couple secs then straightens up.. well it eventually gets to the point where it will start missing at driving speeds.. so i been seafoaming the ************ out of it. 1/3 can in pcv rest in oil. that always straightens it right out. been doin this cycle for about 8 months now every couple of months i guess. anyways i wake up start my car up runs like normal just like any other day run it to town go into school to pick up my girl and come out no more than 5 mins later and i try to start it up and it just stumbles and sputters out so after an 80$ tow bill to get it hauled 10 miles i get it back home and now it cranks but wont even start... The engine is a 95 ej22 swapped into a 98 LGTL. Ive got all the normal codes(P0102 P0183 P0303 P0403 P0420 P0507 ) ive had for like a year. plus a new one now.. cyl 3 missfire. Any idea on where to start? for some reason i feel like theres been carbon buildup or sticky valves or somethin and i just kept beatin the symptoms w/ seafoam untill it finnaly decided that wasnt enough.. anyways thanks in advance guys.. P.S. Also my power steering stopped working and i replaced the pump and it started working for like a couple weeks then just got worse then it was before.. Thanks:Flame: Scott Edited April 27, 2012 by Scotty1419 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 plugs and wires are a good spot to start - what do the plugs look like? plugs can tell you alot. how old are the wires? wire failure can easily cause misfires. report back any unusual findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recian Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) Hold on here. Youve HAD this problem for awhile and since you say these codes are normal i assume youve HAD these codes.. 102 is a MAF sensor code. 507 is an idle control code. 303 is the misfire code and 420 is a cat. Converter. This was fried due to your misfire. A maf can cause alot of funky readings including lean/rich conditions, misfires, stumble, loss of power and sometimes no starts. Id check the maf first before i do anything. It will cause it to idle eratic throwing a 507, misfire leading to 303 and that 303 caused ur 420 Edited April 27, 2012 by Recian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty1419 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Hold on here. Youve HAD this problem for awhile and since you say these codes are normal i assume youve HAD these codes.. 102 is a MAF sensor code. 507 is an idle control code. 303 is the misfire code and 420 is a cat. Converter. This was fried due to your misfire. A maf can cause alot of funky readings including lean/rich conditions, misfires, stumble, loss of power and sometimes no starts. Id check the maf first before i do anything. It will cause it to idle eratic throwing a 507, misfire leading to 303 and that 303 caused ur 420 well i put a new maf sensor on it and it didnt help. however i did find a large amount of atf fluid that leaked out of the power steering pump in the spark plug hole nearest the pump. the plug wire boot was completely saturated with atf and the plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recian Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 That could cause a problem. Mine leaks too and idk why. It runs down the passenger side to #1 spark plug or onto the timing cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Have you noticed any mice under the hood? There's a lot going on but it can be narrowed down. First things first, No more seafoam in the oil. It does no good for a poor running condition, just waters down the oil. Vacuum leaks will do you no good and are likely cause for your MAP and IAC codes. The EGR code due to your new engine not having EGR? If it has it the solenoid is unplugged or bad, or possibly there's a broken vacuum hose to the valve. P0420 is related to the misfire, if it has been misfiring for a long time it's likely the cat is damaged at this point and will need to be "repaired" or replaced. P0183 is for the fuel temperature sensor, this is inside the trunk I believe mounted near the right rear strut tower. Or maybe that's the tank pressure sensor, I don't remember off hand. Get a copy of the FSM for your car. There are several links around here to pages where you can get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty1419 Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 well today i had a friend turn the key on and i listened in the gas cap and didnt hear a whirring noise so that leads me to believe my fuel pump is bad.. i found the relay after about 2 hrs of cussing and moving wires and plugs and ************ out of the way under the dash and tested it it clicked. so anyways next step is to find the fuse for the fuel pump however i cant find it anywhere...? does anyone know where it is? and if the fuse is good do i need to replace the pump or is there anything else i can check first? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Easy test of the fuel pump is to remove the fuel line that comes from the filter and stick it in a plastic bottle. Turn key on, if fuel spits into the bottle the pump works. Fuel pump fuse is number 16 in the dash fuse panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Lets start with miles and last time it had a tune up and timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 p0102 mass air flow sensor p0183 fuel temp sensor p0303 cyl 3 misfire p0403 egr malfunction p0420 O2 sensor p0507 Idle control RPM higher then expected. those are NOT normal codes, something is seriously screwed up. Ignoring codes catch up with you and eventually it all goes to hell. This has nothing to do with carbon buildup, period. Stop with the sea foam, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. What has this poor car been though? Lets rule out the O2 sensor for now, UNLESS there is a bad wiring harness. We need to throw out everything and start with basics. Inspect the harness and under the hood for damage. After that we need to start going deeper. This is not a fuel issue directly, bvut man, when was the last time this car had any love? Fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, plugs wires, proper PS repair, timing belt I can go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) Also don't forget that the P0420 code can be related to a bad rear O2 sensor, but has nothing to do with your car not starting. I am just putting that out there so you don't replace your cat for no reason, except to pad the wallets of the muffler shop. The best way to see if you have a clogged cat unbolt the exhaust at the y collector and see if it will run "normally" If it does then yes you may have a clogged rear cat. For the front just unbolt it at the heads and run it for a quick bit (not necessarily recommended) Also some muffler shops can do a flow test for you to see if it is the front or rear cat. Check your timing, and compression and report back Edited May 3, 2012 by Mugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty1419 Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) alright i pulled one of the 3 fuel lines coming from the fuel filter headed to the fuel rail and i turned the key on and even cranked it and no fuel i couldnt even smell fuel in the line i pulled. so what is the next step? And thanks for all the input and help guys.. i know the egr code is always gonna be there bc of the 2.2 swap the maf code and fuel temp sensor have always been there since the swap. the iac code came after i started seafoamin it and i did a compression test a few months ago and it was spot on as well as checked the timing belt to make sure it was in time. the belt isnt that old maybe 20k or less miles on it also i know the harness is good i spent weeks inspecting that dam thing when my car was missing so bad it barely moved. i did everything plugs wires coilpack swapped the entire intake w/ fuel rail with known good one nothing fixed that dam miss but seafoam in the pcv valve and in the oil. Edited May 3, 2012 by Scotty1419 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 The question is did you pull the one coming out of the fuel filter going to the fuel rail. You said you pulled one of the 3, well which one. ? Because if you pulled the evap one, then you won't get any fuel. I would pull the one coming from the bulk head and going INTO the fuel filter. Turn your key on and see if fuel comes out. If there is, then hook it back up, and disconnect the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter itself. Turn key on, check for flow....bad or no flow, change fuel filter. I always change my fuel filter once a year anyways, as a maintenance item. If your not getting any fuel at all, then go after the pump relays, and fuses first, You can also open up the access panel on the tank under the rear seat and jumper the hot lead, to see if the pump is working or not. If it comes one, then you have an issue before the pump, if it does not, then replace the pump, sock, and fuel filter and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 find the access panel to the fuel pump and tap on it with a hammer(or tap the bottom of the tank). it should come back to life for a while. that will tell you if its the pump or the wiring. ive done this hundreds of times and it always works. i love hearing this when i go to look at a car."well it was running when it was parked" . tap tap tap ...vroom vroom. also just for shiggles double check the fpr. after the pump issue is addressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 The question is did you pull the one coming out of the fuel filter going to the fuel rail. for a normal operating system this line will usually have pressure, and fuel. (not high pressure, but enough to spew fuel on to your hands and other stuff in the area, use a rag and NO SMOKING.) if the engine has not run in a while the pressure may fade, but if you have been trying to start the engine it should have pressure and fuel. if not then no fuel pressure, no pump????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) To confirm a fuel delivery problem I suggest you spray a little starter fluid into the intake and see if the engine fires up then when you try to start it. When turning the key from OFF to ON you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds, after that it shuts down if the engine isn't running. That would verify power is getting to it if you hear it. Edited May 7, 2012 by Cougar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty1419 Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 okay its deffinetly a fuel problem b/c i sprayed some starter fluid in it and it started up for a second but blew some nasty smoke out the tail pipe. I unplugged the connector that goes into the fuel pump and turned the key on and tested the 6 metal conductors on that connector. I put the red one on each one of the metal conductors and the black one on the fuel pump lid for a ground. The highest i got was a reading of 7 - 10 volts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 The fuel pump power only stays on for a couple of seconds after you turn the ignition on if the engine isn't running. You should be able to hear the pump run when you turn the key to the ON position. See if you can hear the pump turn on. If you can't hear it then you should make sure the fuses under the hood and dash are all ok. If they are good then you should check the fuel pump relay power connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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