so i picked this bumper off a dodge intrepid. i plan on cutting it in half so i get 2" blocks but im not sure its going to be strong enough as it is aluminum.

 

 

 

what do you guys think?

Edited May 7, 201213 yr by AKghandi

Not even on Sunday.

 

GD

yeah thats that i was thinking. thanks GD

 

guess ill scrap it for a few bucks.

just for reference what size/thickness should i get? i have $50 im going to put twards a lift.

1/8" steel 2x2 square stock (If you want a 2" lift) 1/8" should take the abuse.

How and why are people changing their IDs now? You're like the 5th person I've seen do this.

Well seeing as how i havent had an 86gl10turbo sedan in 3 years it was confusig people so i pmed zap and he changed it for me

Aha! How about this? its 2x2 and just about 1/8th thick, the thickness concerns me but im not going to do any serious offroading..i think it came from a stop sign ...not sure how it got there though.

 

Edited April 29, 201213 yr by AKghandi

Eh, I'm not sure about that piece either. The bases of street signs aren't made from hardened steel.

 

You could go with 1/4" if you are worried about strength.

I have built worse. I made a 6" lift that collapsed int he rear costing me a tire. The stop sign post reminds me of things i did with my 79pinto wagon.

2X2 3/16" is perfect just go get a rim of that shouldnt cost you any more than 15 bucks for what you would need....................

 

 

Jeff

yeah the only problem there is i have no idea where to go for steel tubing. ive been to lowes and homedepot neither of them have it..here in anchorage theres not alot of places that sell stuff like that. im going to go to a few more places tomorrow or find something that will work like a 4wheeler ramp or an old trailer. something 2x2 and atleast 1/8 thick

Don't have an metal supply lots near by? Best bet for cheap, good steel products. A chain store will not carry such tubing, and if they did, it would cost a hefty price.

 

Cheers!

yeah the only problem there is i have no idea where to go for steel tubing. ive been to lowes and homedepot neither of them have it..here in anchorage theres not alot of places that sell stuff like that. im going to go to a few more places tomorrow or find something that will work like a 4wheeler ramp or an old trailer. something 2x2 and atleast 1/8 thick

 

I am not sure if they sell to the public...

http://www.alaskasteel.com/contact.htm

 

Google search

yeah thats actually the place im going to go to, but i doubt they sell to the public also.

Do you have any welders around? They will have scrap and most likely will give you some. Or, oil patch /pipeline workers ....or any place that works on heavy equipment. where there are welders, there is steel

 

Oh yeah....boats and shipyards too

I get stuff like that from a machine shop. My front lift blocks are 2x2 3/16" (pretty sure 3/16", not 1/4").

 

It's not something you want to underbuild though. Failing suspension is bad and dangerous. No reason to try to save a few bucks when the consequence is crashing your car due to failed suspension.

You would be surprised how poorly a lift kit could be made, and still work just fine. I seen stacks of washers used

 

3/16" would be the optimal choice if you are buying it, if you are getting scrap for free, take what you can get as long as it'll work.

i got an offer of a cheap lift kit so i think i'll go that route. saves time and it shouldn't cost too much more. i should be lifted pretty soon.

 

Thanks One Eye!

Indeed it will probably cost about the same, cause once you start buying bolts, nuts and washers, you already into $30. Plus whatever the steel runs you, then the time it takes to weld up and drill.

 

I think this was a good route! One Eye is a good guy!

plus i doubt i could even make mine all the same.. a sawzall and a old crappy drill dont make precise cuts or holes..and if my wheels were at different angles i think i would go crazy till i fixed it.

Ill cut them up tomorrow for ya and get them all set up......... What do you have for the rear?

 

Jeff

I think i can get some 1" wide 1/4" steel and make 2"drops for the rear. although if you were so inclined to make some rear lifts i would make it worth your time.

The rears have to be bent into a 45*, the rear coilover needs to be turned around as well.

Also, you don't want the rears to be actually 2" from hole to hole.

 

Since you aren't changing the pivot point, if you move the strut mount 2" down, you are actually pushing the wheel (6 inches further down the arm) down about 3 1/2" I see alot of these 2" lifts where the rear sticks up in the air too far, and the rear axles are maxed out.

 

When I do this type of lift, I make the rear straps with about 1-1/4" from hole to hole......which yeilds about 2" of actual lift.