I'm FINALLY getting around to finishing a Weber swap on my 85 Brat that I started nearly 2 years ago. Since I didn't label everything as I knew that a fair portion was NOT going back in, I'm not sure that I have everything hooked up correctly and I want to make sure that I didn't delete something I needed to keep and vice versa.

 

If Anyone has pics of an EA81 WITHOUT emissions after a Weber swap, I'd LOVE to see them. I've searched the forum several times using different terms and the pics I find are either EA82s or the links are broken (even the Great ones that used to be in the USRM).

 

Thanks in advance for all the help!

Heater control vac and the distributor are the important ones. Ill dig thru my pictures but might not have a clear one that focuses on that more than just the carb itself. About to do one this week though.

An EA82 Weber Swap Writeup could help you because it is almost equal to the EA81 Weber Swap, the main difference is the Adaptor plate on the intake manifold.

 

So, maybe This: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206 Writeup could help a Little with some Ideas.

 

Kind Regards.

Hows this?

 

Only 3 vac lines. small one to heater box, small one to dizzy, and large one to brake booster.

 

No egr, no air injection, etc...

 

 

GD just installed a weber in my 85 brat a few weeks ago, ill try to take some pictures tomorrow for you. The EGR is in place, but not hooked up vacuum-wise so I believe all I have are manifold to distributor vacuum advance and manifold to heater box. I don't remember there being a third vacuum line from the manifold. Also, we got a 5/8" air filter for one of the valve covers and then connected the other to the weber air intake. If you are planning on mudding/setting it up with a snorkel you would not want to have an air intake on the valve cover obviously.

you definitely want your charcoal canister, i have heard of people replacing them with a fuel filter but i don't see the point they rarely ever fail.

Weld-up the exhaust 'tubes' coming right off below the cyl heads for EGR? And the EGR tube that connects into what was it the pass. side cyl head?

 

I cut/welded those all closed, so everything eliminated correctly and no exhaust leaks.

air suction valve is what your thinking of i think. someone on the board told me to put quarters in mine and it worked great! easier than trying to weld it up.

all you have to do is unscrew the pipe put a quarter in and screw the pipe back in.

Here are some pics of what I've got. I know that I can go to the bottom of the heads on each side to do the quarter trick to remove the ASVs, but I haven't gotten to that yet. I wanted to test it to see if it would run first it does, but rough ( pretty smooth idle so I've got the timing off a bit.)

 

EGR is still there, but I know it's not hooked up correctly. I'm a rookie.

 

Pics start on the passenger side and go all the way around and then an overhead pic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If there are excessive pics LMK and I'll remove the unnecessary ones.

i would get rid of the egr, other than that it looks like your basic connections are fine and that is all you really need with a weber i have been working on a car with a weber swap and they only have charcoal canister, spark advance, and brake booster hooked up and it works fine

Edited July 30, 201213 yr by mikaleda

Thanks for all the advice. I tinkered with it a bit more today and found that I had a leaky coolant bypass hose ( now replaced ), 2 loose sparkplugs (from the compression test ) and a vacuum leak on the hose from the EGR to the top of the manifold (removed hose and capped).

 

That has smoothed out the idle and she's purring like the proverbial kitten.

 

Now I just have to find a good way to repair the pin hole leak in the radiator (Stop leak maybe?!?!?) and she should be road ready again.

 

So should I use the STOP Leak or take out the radiator and take it to a local radiator shop?

So should I use the STOP Leak or take out the radiator and take it to a local radiator shop?

 

Please do not put that stop leak crap in your car. It will end up clogging your radiator or heater core and make you overheat.

 

Weber swap is lookin good.

I want to do that swap to my Brat as well.

no stop leak, and i wouldn't take it to a shop either. radiator repair is easy all you have to do is solder the hole up. i have done this many times no big deal all it takes is a propane torch, some solder, and flux.

I've got a spare radiator on the way thanks to another USMB member so I might try this once I have the "new" one in place.

 

I'm grateful that this is a back up car and not my DD.