I have done a dozen axels on old subarus, our outback looks like the same job as the old ones. BUT - There isn't enough room to get a hammer on a punch from the top, do you drop the exhaust and hit it from under?

Most people use a long punch designed for axle roll pins or you can use a socket extension and put the end of the punch in the female end of it...... I never drop exhaust to get at the pins.

 

GD

thank you

7/32 drill bit inside a 1/4 socket on a suitable extension. What else would you need a 7/32 bit for, anyway? But the tool mentioned by the general is the best thing to have. I just used one for the first time.

goto sears and buy a 7/32" roll pin punch. They cost bout 7 bucks. I've seen people break off drillbits in there and then it makes it real fun taking it out.

 

Its like using an easyout when you should have just welded a nut onto the broken bolt. You just end up spending more time trying to fix a "shortcut"

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool.

 

GD

I bought a set of pin punches (IIRC 5/16 is the szie needed).

Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top.

If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar.

 

O.

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool.

 

GD

I agree that this precaution is important when dealing with a rusted pin of unknown origin. My experience with OE stainless pins has been that they come out without a fight. Of course if the OP can wait for obtaining proper tools, they should order the axle pin remover, or at least a plain 7/32 punch (not available in hardware stores).

I thought that on a 6 mm hole, a 7/32 drill was easier to use than a 3/16 punch (tried both).

Edited September 4, 201213 yr by avk

If you have a Harbor Freight store near by they have a kit of long punches that I bought when I had to do mine. They work great and a great price.

snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer

yep, get the right tool/set up and it's easy. i've never had a problem getting to them and i've done numerous axle repairs.

 

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow.

rather easily at that. i intentionally break them to make them shorter - for using with a right angle drill in tight spaces like the front of the engine to avoid removing engine/radiator, condensor. the strong...but brittle...drill bits easily break. kind of like concrete - very durable and strong, but brittle - not intended for impacts.

snap on sells a punch ment for the job has a tit on the end to sit in the pin hole to center it works very well with a six inch extention like GD said the punch is like 30 $ and i love mine has done 500 pins no problem the ps side is a pain i come from above sometimes is easyer

There's a newer version of this tool, LT-730, with a small tip on the end to fit snugly inside the pin and hold it.

http://www.toolsource.com/axle-tool-subaru-p-134649.html

 

Dont buy snap on. Buy what the dealerships use. its 15 bucks and its shouldered so you dont have to hold the pin when reinstalling it

Yes, that one.

make your own

 

cut an old long screw driver and youve got a perfect tool for years to come

 

i made mine that way... and i use it everytime i need an axle changed

Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though.

Drooling over the magnetic tipped shouldered punch but 3/16" punch from HF works on passenger side. Its 8" long and 0.555" dia knurled handle fits between exhaust on '96 OBS. Wish it was 10" though.

 

That's what she said.

 

On a more serious note! A straight 3/16" punch fitted into a deep socket with an extension works great if you don't have the axle pin tool.