260k 96' EJ25 DOCH

i hear pretty loud like a (ding!, ding!, ding! as over a again)

i use the voltmeter ohms on COIL...there said's 'OL' on cycle 2 and 3...look like misfire the engine like a shakey...

should i use video and let you hearing abt it?

THANKS, master subaru.

Edited September 14, 201213 yr by Suba_GL_87
EJ25 noise.

HERE IS.....weird noise.

 

The coil is going to have a very high resistance. OL sounds like overload, possibly a problem with your meter. It also looks as though it is putting out plenty from when you took the wires off. Jumping 1/4" with a strong arc is good in my opinion. Check your plug wires to make sure they are good. Also look at your plugs. Check gap and condition. If its nothing in the electrical department then internals is what your looking at. You do have 260k miles on it.

new wires, spark plugs....

i use the spark plug clamp into voltmeter said 2 and 3 cycle said RPM zero?

compare other 1,200-1500RPM on 1 and 4 cycle is good?

spark plug is lose but i doubt it?

I listened again and the noise is dependent on the engine speed so I would lean towards piston slap or HLAs if it has them(I can't recall which engines they used them in).

I listened again and the noise is dependent on the engine speed so I would lean towards piston slap or HLAs if it has them(I can't recall which engines they used them in).

 

sorry, what's HLAs?

You clearly have spark from all 4 outputs of the coil, so I don't understand why you're testing the coil.

 

Knocking sound is incorrect valve clearance. Sounds too rapid to be a rod bearing, unless several have failed at the same time.

Dude: If you are referring to the knocking sound, you have a spun bearing. Sorry for the bad news, but it is only going to get worse.

Sounds like rod knock to me, maybe even more than one rod. Drain your oil and see if it has gold in it.

 

Sometimes timing belt idlers can go bad and make knocking sounds. This doesn't sound like one, but I had a belt idler I could swear was a rod knock. I was completely certain, as were other people. Both on a video and in person.

 

 

The coil is going to have a very high resistance. OL sounds like overload, possibly a problem with your meter.

 

In the OHM setting, OL means Open Lead. Ie. it's either not connected to anything, or the resistance is higher than your current range setting.

 

OL means overload when you have it in a volt or amp setting.

Sounds like rod knock to me, maybe even more than one rod. Drain your oil and see if it has gold in it.

 

Sometimes timing belt idlers can go bad and make knocking sounds. This doesn't sound like one, but I had a belt idler I could swear was a rod knock. I was completely certain, as were other people. Both on a video and in person.

 

 

 

 

In the OHM setting, OL means Open Lead. Ie. it's either not connected to anything, or the resistance is higher than your current range setting.

 

OL means overload when you have it in a volt or amp setting.

this happened to me, i pulled the motor and started teardown and there it was a tensioner without tension

piston slap, hydraulic lash adjusters, conrod or gudgeon pin noise or what I think it is the timing belt tensioner has given up and is flapping in the breeze.

 

TOONGA

piston slap, hydraulic lash adjusters, conrod or gudgeon pin noise or what i think it is the timing belt tensioner has given up and is flapping in the breeze.

 

Toonga

 

+1

ok, i will going to drain oil on tomorrow, if there have a damage 'gold' metal.

with my magnet..

also ill removed the timing belt cover, but recently, i repair new timing belt kits.

should i use AMETECH ENGINE RESTORE? will less noise?

when i driving...i can feel like a slap! slap during city! but highway do good.

so, it's piston slap..

Engine restore wont fix that. You have to find out what the source is. Did you drain oil or look under timing belt covers to see if you have internal damage or if its just a tensioner?

yes, i does drain oil and there nothin damage from metal...but i smell gas mix with fuel.. i dont think there no pinion slap...

so, i have to check tensioner on tomorrow. if so...how i can get problem solving for tensioner? just need tighter blots or adjuster?

 

Engine restore wont fix that. You have to find out what the source is. Did you drain oil or look under timing belt covers to see if you have internal damage or if its just a tensioner?

sounds like the flex plate is cracked or broken dosent sound like bottom end check flex plate bolts

flex plate? maybe it's bend? i think so... cuz i was use long drive into flex plate for removed crankshaft pully. but im highly doubt.

 

sounds like the flex plate is cracked or broken dosent sound like bottom end check flex plate bolts

Edited September 16, 201213 yr by Suba_GL_87

I like the flappy tensioner idea. Have you checked that yet? You can probably see it by removing the drivers side belt cover.

 

Only way to check the flex-plate is to remove the engine. Flex plate or rod bearing it needs to come out of the car.

check out youtube other video..

 

nothin' special or... ??

 

thanks, master.

Tensioner looks fine to me.

 

I still wanna say valve lash is out of spec.

What's the story for this engine? How long has it been in the car? Is it a recent rebuild? Head gasket job?

Tensioner looks fine to me.

 

I still wanna say valve lash is out of spec.

What's the story for this engine? How long has it been in the car? Is it a recent rebuild? Head gasket job?

 

i was repair fuel injection o-ring kits. somehow i was start but there stuck like a lock becuz of flood...so, waiting around 10 mins later...i start again and there got a noise lately. (maybe pinion damage?t)

before i was repair head gasket...

top is intake camshaft.

bottle is exhaust camshaft. (both of them)

 

valve lash....mmmm...maybe mess it up?

Edited September 17, 201213 yr by Suba_GL_87

Was the noise present before changing the injectors?

Was the noise present before changing the injectors?

after...

So the engine was able to run on it's own, with no noise before replacing the fuel injectors?