Well, when we bought this outback, we replaced the transfer clutches they looked like someone towed the car with a dolly.  The clutches were burnt up and destroyed the housing.  Now, that said, before we tore it down and found that out, when doing the tight turn test it would buck real hard.  Well, now we are back to that point.  we had the trans fluid changed and its already dark and smells burnt, and its bucking again, even when you take a tight turn with NO power put on .  When we put in the FWD fuse, all problems go away.  Any idea as to why this trans is chewing up the clutches?

 

Oh, and it (the AWD) worked fine for the first month after putting them in.  Or so we thought.  We never really did any tests to see if it was working.

wrong ratio rear diff or tire size different or to mutch clearance in awd clutch pack

I think these trans also need to have matching or close tread wear on the tires.

Is the speedometer working properly?

 

Is the AT Temp light flashing on startup?

no at temp light flashing. all tires matching and same size. front rear diff appear to be the same. the trans has never been replaced. I think.

broken clutch basket.   seen it on a few of the early 4EAT trannys

I test them on a uphill gravel grade from dead stop should drive away with no front wheel spin or very little. Is it posibble that fluid got contamanated that may make it break down clutch materal ?

What is the transmission code sticker on the bellhousing right above the starter motor?

 

Check the rear differential ratio by jacking one wheel off the ground, marking the driveshaft and tire, and counting how many turns of the wheel it takes to get the driveshaft to make two full turns.

 

A ratio mismatch could easily be the source of the burnt clutchpack, and the diff's appear the same while the ratio inside can be different. It's also common for people to incorrectly replace the rear diff when they get the shuddering from the center clutchpack binding, so it could have a rear diff from who knows what in it and it would appear to be the right one until you physically count the turns.

What is the transmission code sticker on the bellhousing right above the starter motor?

 

Check the rear differential ratio by jacking one wheel off the ground, marking the driveshaft and tire, and counting how many turns of the wheel it takes to get the driveshaft to make two full turns.

 

A ratio mismatch could easily be the source of the burnt clutchpack, and the diff's appear the same while the ratio inside can be different. It's also common for people to incorrectly replace the rear diff when they get the shuddering from the center clutchpack binding, so it could have a rear diff from who knows what in it and it would appear to be the right one until you physically count the turns.

 

Couldn't you just put a mark on the front and rear tire and see if they turn at the same speed? Seems alot easier and you get the same result.

Or you could check the sticker on the rear end, even the most beat up ones usually still have the sticker on the diff

Marking front/rear tires doesn't work on an auto trans. The clutchpack is disengaged so the wheels will turn independently. Most new gen cars don't have a sticker on the rear diff to tell you the ratio, from the factory. So... the easiest way is to do what I explained.

 

The transmission code sticker will give us the front diff ratio, and the counting the turns will give the rear diff ratio.

Or you could check the sticker on the rear end, even the most beat up ones usually still have the sticker on the diff

95+ doesn't have a sticker on the diff anymore

 

Marking front/rear tires doesn't work on an auto trans. The clutchpack is disengaged so the wheels will turn independently.

it works if you unplug the TCU (or the large connector on the rear of the engine feeding the trans) and start the engine and put it in ''N''.

then the wheels, front and rear, are  ''locked'' in 4WD, a torque bind set up. (assuming the transfer clutch discs are good.)

 

endwrench suggested this method to check for matching front and rear diffs on auto trans cars.

it works great.

 

 

but i would block the other two wheels incase you accidentally shift into gear instead of ''N''.

i pull the cover and count the teeth dosent lie but is probly 4.44 i put 5 in the core pile last night 3 were ok but high kms i save the 4.44 ratio front diffs for offroaders

is the '96 a year that needs some steel sleeve part swapped in to protect the aluminum case in the xfer system?

 

something like that

Edited April 24, 201312 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

i think so. i remember nipper talking about how they corrected the issue in mid 97????

but i have drivien a 95 a 97 obw and a 97GT and never had an issue with any of them.

is that for when the slip rings wear into the tail shaft housing on output ?