I don't want the tires to tow in.

I don't want a stiff suspension.

I don't want to blow CV joints every time I turn around.

I am going to be putting a Webber conversion on it.

I would like it to have the same amount of power as it does without the Webber. If not more.

This thing does not need a super lift on it. I just want it to look good on the occasional logging road rally, while still being comfortable on the occasional 300 mile road trip over the pass and back.

 

I think I listed all my demands, any ideas? Lol

More info about your Ride will be Helpful...

Sorry, it's my Brat, the one in my photo.

Despite mine is a '85 Wagon, I found that the Best combo for Mixed Driving (in my Case 40% offRoad and 60% Daily Driving) is 2" lift plus 25" tires, and dropping the Crossmember to keep the Axles as close as Stock angle you can.

 

Kind Regards.

K cool, thanks

Tons of info here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110178-offrood-faq/

 

Some of those guys don't make lifts anymore, but it is still a good read.

Edited October 28, 201312 yr by BratRod

Despite mine is a '85 Wagon, I found that the Best combo for Mixed Driving (in my Case 40% offRoad and 60% Daily Driving) is 2" lift plus 25" tires, and dropping the Crossmember to keep the Axles as close as Stock angle you can.

 

Kind Regards.

Just went out and checked the the tires and it looks like I'm about there already, sucks I was hoping to get a couple more inches.

You can use 27" without Rubbing on a 2" lift.

 

That was my personal choice to stay on 25" due to my Mixed Driving needs, my Subaru "BumbleBeast" works Pretty Hard as Daily Driver in our extremely mountainous Honduras' city Roads, also works as Mountain Adventure Vehicle on Weekends, traveling off road with Family, so 25" Keeps the Mileage and Power closer to Stock, than 27".

 

Kind Regards.

I don't want the tires to tow in.

I don't want a stiff suspension.

I don't want to blow CV joints every time I turn around.

I am going to be putting a Webber conversion on it.

I would like it to have the same amount of power as it does without the Webber. If not more.

This thing does not need a super lift on it. I just want it to look good on the occasional logging road rally, while still being comfortable on the occasional 300 mile road trip over the pass and back.

 

I think I listed all my demands, any ideas? Lol

my kit  at www.sjrlift.com for the EA81  keeps the axles and CVs , and suspension in stock Geometry,  should ride like it does now, a big factor will be choice of rims and tires

I have 27x8.50x14 Maxxis Bighorns on a 4" lifted BRAT with 14x7 wheels with 3 3/4 inch backspacing and they rub pretty good.  It will be about wheels you choose as Scott said.  You will want to run Peugeot wheels or something close to stock offset to keep from rubbing.

 

http--,,--//

 

3" in the front, 2" in the back cranked all the way up. 200 miles a week no probs.

I understand what you want.  I have done mine very similar to that.  I have weberized it, 2 inch lift, 6 bolt wheels, 14 inch tires, NOS gas tank, 14 inch Nissans and center caps, NOS exhaust and just about everything else.  So many things I hate to say.  It has been a long journey getting there but it is all easy enough if you want to do it.  I used the forum for help but basically just looked at posts and pictures and then took educated guesses. 

I love my 14 BFG's.  They are 10 ply and although stiff, they stand up to bean and corn stubble for hunting or playing around.  I made my own 2 inch lift out of 3/16 wall square tubing.  It took about 2 feet total.  I dropped the pumpkin 2 inches with 3/8 plate steel.  I only use CV shafts that are new, the remanufactured ones always clicked.  I used a bed liner for the areas in the bed and under the stripe and kept the original paint with a clear coat cover up.  Seats are from a u-pull-it.  I made the shock towers myself.  I looked at vendor photos and then kind of guessed.  I simply cut 4 inch heavy walled pipe at a 15 degree angle then cut a hole in the flat plates and welded them together.  This stopped any bad toe problems. 

 

Next items I want are to completely build a new motor from the ground up.  Lots of advice here says to buy one from somebody and swap it.  Well, I did it twice with not too promising results.  I am going to get a Clegg build kit and do the work myself.  One other thing is the front drive angles of my CV shafts.  I put a 2 inch block system on it but am going to raise the struts to the highest setting then drop the cross members and engine another inch.  This will lessen the angles.  Too much and it started to rumble like the shafts were coming apart.  The ride is a little rough but that could also be the tires.  The rims I got from a mid 90s Nissan truck.  BFG's 195-75-14 are a good find and I love the white letters.  I have a little rubbing but not when I lift it another inch.  In the pics, the one with no grill guard is with the full lift.  ( I don't like jack rabbit look- I want it pretty level)  Oh yeah, the grill guard was a throw away from a mid 90s Toyota. 

 

The lift can seem a little scary.  Just take your time and think it through. If I could do it again, I would 5 speed it, lift the front 3 inches with a 4 inch engine drop. I still have to ad more lights and finish the engine and lift.  I also need to fabricate a class 1 hitch. 

I use the LED lights to save on power and they are great for hunting and working in the field.  This is my Ranger/Mule/Rhino

 

 

I'd recommend a three inch lift - struts and body; keep the stock springs and struts as this will keep your CV angles at stock.  Then it's just your tyre combination.  You might find they will still rub on the chassis rail - I've got a 3 inch lift in my L series with 27 inch tyres at the stock offset and they rub at full lock behind the front axle on the chassis rail.

 

At the end of the day it's up to you how high you go.  The lift kit should have the correct camber adjustments built into the strut lift on the front end

Cheers

Bennie